How to Make Your Own Sewing Patterns

Trace the seams with chalk., Spread out the pattern paper., Flatten the original garment on top of the paper., Trace around the perimeter of the largest area., Repeat for the back and the smaller pieces., Sketch a seam allowance., Cut out the pieces.

7 Steps 4 min read Medium

Step-by-Step Guide

  1. Step 1: Trace the seams with chalk.

    Spread out the garment you want to copy so that it lies flat and face-up.

    Trace each front seam of the garment with white chalk.

    This technique can be used on any garment, but it does work best on simple garments stitched together from simple shapes.

    You can also use this garment to make a copycat pattern of sewn accessories, like handbags.

    For the time being, focus on the seams surrounding the largest part of the front portion of the garment.

    You will work on the front of the garment first, starting with the largest section and gradually moving through the smaller sections.

    After that, you will work on the back.

    For example, if you want to make a copycat pattern of a dress, chalk the sleeve seams and the seam separating the torso from the skirt (if applicable).
  2. Step 2: Spread out the pattern paper.

    Lay out a large piece of brown postal wrapping paper, spreading it flat over a hard surface.A hard surface will make the transfer and tracing process easier.

    Avoid doing this on carpet or other soft surfaces.

    Stiff corkboard works well because you can pin the garment in place as you work.Brown postal wrapping paper is also ideal because it comes in large amounts.

    Moreover, chalk shows up on the paper relatively well. , Place your garment chalk-side down on your paper.

    Straighten the garment out, then carefully apply pressure on the back of the garment along each seam.

    Use your non-dominant hand or weights to keep the garment still and flat against the paper.

    Simultaneously use your dominant hand to rub over the back of your garment around any area you chalked previously.

    If done correctly, the chalk on your garment should rub off onto the paper.

    You can pin the garment to the paper as you work, but only do this if you are working on top of corkboard or a similar porous surface.

    Stick the pins straight through the garment, the paper, and the corkboard. , With the garment still lying flat, trace around the top, bottom, and side edges of the garment using your chalk.

    Make sure that the garment remains flat and still.

    Only trace around the edges of the main section.

    Each section requires its own pattern piece, so you need to focus on one section at a time.

    For example, if working on your copycat dress pattern, you would need to trace around the neckline and the sides of the torso during this part.

    If the skirt and torso form one big piece and are not connected by a seam, trace around the sides and bottom of the skirt, as well. , For each separate section of the garment, you will need to chalk the seams and press them against the paper.

    Likewise, you will need to trace around the edges of each section, as well.

    Create a separate pattern piece for each separate section of the garment.

    Finish the front pieces first, then move onto the back pieces.

    For example, on a copycat dress pattern, you might need to make front sleeve pieces, a front skirt piece, back sleeve pieces, a back torso piece, and a back skirt piece.

    Make sure that you mark what each piece is as you work.

    Do not draw the pattern pieces directly next to each other on the paper.

    Leave at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of space in between pieces. , Remove the garment from the paper and sketch out a second parallel line 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) out from each edge of each pattern piece.

    Technically, most commercial pieces use a seam allowance of 5/8 inches (1.6 cm), so you opt for that measurement instead of the 1/2 inch (1.25 cm).

    Regardless of what you choose, be consistent and use the same allowance for each piece. , Use sharp scissors to cut out each pattern piece along the seam allowance lines.

    This should complete the process.
  3. Step 3: Flatten the original garment on top of the paper.

  4. Step 4: Trace around the perimeter of the largest area.

  5. Step 5: Repeat for the back and the smaller pieces.

  6. Step 6: Sketch a seam allowance.

  7. Step 7: Cut out the pieces.

Detailed Guide

Spread out the garment you want to copy so that it lies flat and face-up.

Trace each front seam of the garment with white chalk.

This technique can be used on any garment, but it does work best on simple garments stitched together from simple shapes.

You can also use this garment to make a copycat pattern of sewn accessories, like handbags.

For the time being, focus on the seams surrounding the largest part of the front portion of the garment.

You will work on the front of the garment first, starting with the largest section and gradually moving through the smaller sections.

After that, you will work on the back.

For example, if you want to make a copycat pattern of a dress, chalk the sleeve seams and the seam separating the torso from the skirt (if applicable).

Lay out a large piece of brown postal wrapping paper, spreading it flat over a hard surface.A hard surface will make the transfer and tracing process easier.

Avoid doing this on carpet or other soft surfaces.

Stiff corkboard works well because you can pin the garment in place as you work.Brown postal wrapping paper is also ideal because it comes in large amounts.

Moreover, chalk shows up on the paper relatively well. , Place your garment chalk-side down on your paper.

Straighten the garment out, then carefully apply pressure on the back of the garment along each seam.

Use your non-dominant hand or weights to keep the garment still and flat against the paper.

Simultaneously use your dominant hand to rub over the back of your garment around any area you chalked previously.

If done correctly, the chalk on your garment should rub off onto the paper.

You can pin the garment to the paper as you work, but only do this if you are working on top of corkboard or a similar porous surface.

Stick the pins straight through the garment, the paper, and the corkboard. , With the garment still lying flat, trace around the top, bottom, and side edges of the garment using your chalk.

Make sure that the garment remains flat and still.

Only trace around the edges of the main section.

Each section requires its own pattern piece, so you need to focus on one section at a time.

For example, if working on your copycat dress pattern, you would need to trace around the neckline and the sides of the torso during this part.

If the skirt and torso form one big piece and are not connected by a seam, trace around the sides and bottom of the skirt, as well. , For each separate section of the garment, you will need to chalk the seams and press them against the paper.

Likewise, you will need to trace around the edges of each section, as well.

Create a separate pattern piece for each separate section of the garment.

Finish the front pieces first, then move onto the back pieces.

For example, on a copycat dress pattern, you might need to make front sleeve pieces, a front skirt piece, back sleeve pieces, a back torso piece, and a back skirt piece.

Make sure that you mark what each piece is as you work.

Do not draw the pattern pieces directly next to each other on the paper.

Leave at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of space in between pieces. , Remove the garment from the paper and sketch out a second parallel line 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) out from each edge of each pattern piece.

Technically, most commercial pieces use a seam allowance of 5/8 inches (1.6 cm), so you opt for that measurement instead of the 1/2 inch (1.25 cm).

Regardless of what you choose, be consistent and use the same allowance for each piece. , Use sharp scissors to cut out each pattern piece along the seam allowance lines.

This should complete the process.

About the Author

C

Christina Murphy

A passionate writer with expertise in crafts topics. Loves sharing practical knowledge.

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