How to Sew Patiala Salwar

Step-by-Step Guide

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   Step 1: Obtain approximately three yards of material.

   Light cotton works best for your first attempts... but most light weight fabrics would work. , Iron if necessary.,,, You should have around 6 inches (15.2 cm) left over for later use as ankle and waist bands with ties for closure.,,, Mark the spot with a pin or tailors chalk., Mark this spot with a pin or tailors chalk., This will be the front flap closure and the back seam later on.
   
   Mark the 12 inch (30.5 cm) mark with pins or chalk.,,,,,,,,, (you can put in a zipper if you like, but a flap is usually sufficient.) You should now have a HUGE pair of pants that is at least TWICE your size.
   
   The next step is to gather or pleat those huge openings down to your actual size, creating the traditional "poofy" look. , Pin or baste the pleats into place and test fit.,, Pinch them down to mark your ankle placement in the center of the strap.
   
   Mark with pins or chalk.,, (hint: mitering the corner seam first will make them look better when turned.),,,,, Pin or baste in place., The only difference is that you will have a MUCH larger opening, and therefore may need a much longer strap... (should be the length of your waist plus 14-20 inches on each end for the tie strap.),, You've got your very own pair of folk pants / Genie pants / Patiala Salwar!
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   Step 2: Pre-wash your fabric and dry it.

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   Step 3: Fold the fabric in half the long way...

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   Step 4: Mark off two 45 inch (114.3 cm) lengths of folded material.

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   Step 5: Cut the two 45 inch (114.3 cm) lengths.

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   Step 6: Measure your hips.

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   Step 7: Measure your ankles.

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   Step 8: Transfer HALF the hip measurement To the "top edge" of the pants and add 5 inches (12.7 cm).

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   Step 9: Transfer the ankle measurement to the "bottom edge" of the pants.

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    Step 10: Measure down along the "open edge" approximately 12 inches (30.5 cm).

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    Step 11: Cut the diagonal line from the ankle measurement to the bottom of the front opening.

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    Step 12: Set aside the four resulting triangles to use later as gussets.

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    Step 13: Line up each selvedge edge of the gusset with diagonal cut line at the top end or "crotch".

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    Step 14: With right sides together

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    Step 15: sew each triangular gusset to one side of a pant leg.

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    Step 16: Repeat for each gusset (4 seams total).

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    Step 17: Sew the insides of the legs together.

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    Step 18: Turn the pieces right side out.

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    Step 19: Pin the two legs together at the crotch with right sides facing and seams aligned.

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    Step 20: Sew the two legs together along the crotch

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    Step 21: leaving the front open for a flap closure.

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    Step 22: Pleat the ankle openings to fit your ankle.

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    Step 23: Use a seam ripper to open the ankle seam up again.

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    Step 24: Place the strip of cloth for your ankle cuff/tie strap around your ankle and hold the ends together.

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    Step 25: Sew the ends of your ankle cuff/tie strap closed

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    Step 26: leaving the center area between the pins open for sewing to the bottom of the pant leg.

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    Step 27: Turn the ties right side out.

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    Step 28: With right sides together

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    Step 29: Sew one edge of the center of your cuff/tie strap to the pleated (or gathered) bottom of your pant leg.

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    Step 30: Fold the remaining edge to the inside of the pant leg and hand sew it to the inside to complete your cuff/tie.

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    Step 31: Repeat for the other leg.

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    Step 32: Pleat the waist opening to fit your waist.

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    Step 33: Add a waistband/tie to the waist opening in the same manner that you completed the ankle cuffs.

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    Step 34: Add snaps

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    Step 35: zipper or buttons to the front flap closure if desired.

Detailed Guide

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