How to Remove Interior Walls
First, determine if the wall you want to remove is a load bearing wall, meaning it supports the floor above., If the wall you want to remove is at a right angle to the floor joists - STOP., Look at the wall for electrical outlets, switches, etc...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: determine if the wall you want to remove is a load bearing wall
Go into your basement (or crawlspace) and look at the alignment of floor joists.
These are large pieces of lumber going across the house from side to side supporting the floor/roof and are generally 16" apart.
Remember the alignment
- they generally go from side to side on most modern homes across the width of the house. -
Step 2: meaning it supports the floor above.
This is a structural load bearing wall and can't be removed without doing major damage to your home.
Inspect the floor space above it for signs that it supports the joists, or an upstairs wall.
Look in the attic too, to see if any of the roof framework rests on it.
If it's imperative that this wall comes down, you'll have to hire a contractor.
They will call in a structural engineer to advise what has to be done to make the house structurally safe if the wall is removed. (Generally a steel beam is required to carry the load from the upper floor/roof to the side walls.) , Even if there are none present there still might be wiring, plumbing, ventilation, etc. inside the wall.
Go downstairs (or to the basement) and see where the wiring, plumbing, venting, etc. enter the main floor.
If they go into the wall you want to demolish, they'll have to be relocated before the wall can be completely removed.
In this case, all you can do is remove the drywall to expose the studs and the utilities in the wall.
You'll have to wait until they're relocated to proceed. , Cover any vents to prevent dust from being blown around or sucked into your furnace/air conditioner.
Put drop sheets on the floor to protect them from debris. , Take a regular hammer and smash a small hole in the wall at about shoulder height. , Once you have an area large enough to stick in your head, grab a flashlight and look around.
If there are no other obstructions in this area, you can knock the rest of the drywall out on both sides with a sledgehammer (or your foot if you're wearing work boots).
Continue knocking out the remaining sheets of drywall as above, making a small exploratory hole before demolishing the rest of the wall. , Take a reciprocating saw and saw into the 2 X 4 upright studs.
Grab the ends and pull out as much as possible.
Making sure the reciprocating saw is fitted with blades that can cut through nails, run the saw along floor and wall plates where the upright studs are attached to cut through the nails.
Have someone hold the stud while you cut through the nails. , Using a wrecking bar, pull the floor plate up from the subfloor.
Do the same with the ceiling plate; have someone hold the plate while you detach it with the wrecking bar.
Pull out any pieces of nails that remain in the subfloor and ceiling with a pair of pliers. ,, Place thin strips of wood across the newly created hole at 12 to 16" intervals. (2 X 2s or 1 X 2s work fine).
Holding them in place across the gap, place a screw though the existing ceiling on each side to secure them to the ceiling.
This will be the new anchor to attach the drywall strip. , Place the drywall on the ceiling and attach to the wood strips with drywall screws. , Push paper drywall tape into the wet mud and smooth down with a trowel.
Add another layer of mud on top of the tape and smooth out.
You can also cover the screws with a coat of mud to cover. ,, Allow to dry as above and re
-sand. , Each time, you should use a wider trowel to obtain an almost invisible joint. , If the ceiling hasn't being painted in some time, you might need to repaint the entire ceiling so the new section doesn't highly contrast with the old section. , -
Step 3: If the wall you want to remove is at a right angle to the floor joists - STOP.
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Step 4: Look at the wall for electrical outlets
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Step 5: switches
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Step 6: Since demolition will bring up a lot of dust and debris
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Step 7: empty as much from the rooms as possible and cover any doors with plastic sheets to contain dust.
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Step 8: If you are relatively sure the wall is void of any obstructions
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Step 9: don't smash into the wall with your foot or a sledgehammer.
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Step 10: Wearing work gloves
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Step 11: grab onto the edge of the smashed drywall and pull off.
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Step 12: Once all the drywall has been removed
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Step 13: you can start to remove the wall studs.
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Step 14: After all the wall studs are removed
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Step 15: you can remove the floor plate.
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Step 16: Once all the debris is removed
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Step 17: you'll have to patch the ceiling where the wall was removed with a strip of drywall and patch the floor with a new piece of flooring.
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Step 18: On the ceiling
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Step 19: measure the width of the hole created by removal of the wall.
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Step 20: The drywall should be cut almost as wide as the new opening (tape and mud will cover any gaps).
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Step 21: Mud the edge of the new drywall and the existing ceiling with drywall compound ('mud").
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Step 22: Allow the mud to dry (check the box/container for drying time required) and sand the drywall mud.
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Step 23: Add another layer of mud
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Step 24: using a wider trowel to taper the edges.
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Step 25: You may need to do the above steps several times to obtain an almost seamless match between the patch and the existing ceiling.
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Step 26: Once you are satisfied with the patch
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Step 27: you can add a coat of drywall primer/sealer and repaint the patch to match the existing ceiling.
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Step 28: Depending on the type of flooring
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Step 29: you will need to add a patch to the carpeting
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Step 30: tile or hardwood from the adjoining rooms.
Detailed Guide
Go into your basement (or crawlspace) and look at the alignment of floor joists.
These are large pieces of lumber going across the house from side to side supporting the floor/roof and are generally 16" apart.
Remember the alignment
- they generally go from side to side on most modern homes across the width of the house.
This is a structural load bearing wall and can't be removed without doing major damage to your home.
Inspect the floor space above it for signs that it supports the joists, or an upstairs wall.
Look in the attic too, to see if any of the roof framework rests on it.
If it's imperative that this wall comes down, you'll have to hire a contractor.
They will call in a structural engineer to advise what has to be done to make the house structurally safe if the wall is removed. (Generally a steel beam is required to carry the load from the upper floor/roof to the side walls.) , Even if there are none present there still might be wiring, plumbing, ventilation, etc. inside the wall.
Go downstairs (or to the basement) and see where the wiring, plumbing, venting, etc. enter the main floor.
If they go into the wall you want to demolish, they'll have to be relocated before the wall can be completely removed.
In this case, all you can do is remove the drywall to expose the studs and the utilities in the wall.
You'll have to wait until they're relocated to proceed. , Cover any vents to prevent dust from being blown around or sucked into your furnace/air conditioner.
Put drop sheets on the floor to protect them from debris. , Take a regular hammer and smash a small hole in the wall at about shoulder height. , Once you have an area large enough to stick in your head, grab a flashlight and look around.
If there are no other obstructions in this area, you can knock the rest of the drywall out on both sides with a sledgehammer (or your foot if you're wearing work boots).
Continue knocking out the remaining sheets of drywall as above, making a small exploratory hole before demolishing the rest of the wall. , Take a reciprocating saw and saw into the 2 X 4 upright studs.
Grab the ends and pull out as much as possible.
Making sure the reciprocating saw is fitted with blades that can cut through nails, run the saw along floor and wall plates where the upright studs are attached to cut through the nails.
Have someone hold the stud while you cut through the nails. , Using a wrecking bar, pull the floor plate up from the subfloor.
Do the same with the ceiling plate; have someone hold the plate while you detach it with the wrecking bar.
Pull out any pieces of nails that remain in the subfloor and ceiling with a pair of pliers. ,, Place thin strips of wood across the newly created hole at 12 to 16" intervals. (2 X 2s or 1 X 2s work fine).
Holding them in place across the gap, place a screw though the existing ceiling on each side to secure them to the ceiling.
This will be the new anchor to attach the drywall strip. , Place the drywall on the ceiling and attach to the wood strips with drywall screws. , Push paper drywall tape into the wet mud and smooth down with a trowel.
Add another layer of mud on top of the tape and smooth out.
You can also cover the screws with a coat of mud to cover. ,, Allow to dry as above and re
-sand. , Each time, you should use a wider trowel to obtain an almost invisible joint. , If the ceiling hasn't being painted in some time, you might need to repaint the entire ceiling so the new section doesn't highly contrast with the old section. ,
About the Author
Bruce Reyes
A seasoned expert in media and communications, Bruce Reyes combines 1 years of experience with a passion for teaching. Bruce's guides are known for their clarity and practical value.
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