How to Winterize Your Motorcycle
Gather up the tools necessary for winterizing your bike., Give your bike a thorough cleaning., Add a fuel stabilizer to the gas tank., If you have a carburetor, drain your float bowls., Once the engine is warm, you can change the oil and filter...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Gather up the tools necessary for winterizing your bike.
You will need, cleaning cloths, spark plug wrench, a trickle battery charger, four or five quarts of high quality oil, new oil filter, oil can or device to get oil in the cylinders, chain lube (if you have a chain drive), fuel stabilizer, spray can of WD40, a breathable motorcycle cover, kitchen plastic wrap, rubber bands, vinyl or plastic gloves, items to clean and wax your bike.
Lastly a nice location for the bike to spend the winter, a heated secure garage would be ideal.
Avoid wind, dripping water, vermin, mildew, and chemical fumes. -
Step 2: Give your bike a thorough cleaning.
A gentle wash detergent and water will suffice.
By removing road grime and insects you will protect the finish of the bike.
Avoid spraying water directly into the opening of the muffler.
If baffles get wet and are not dried prior storage, internal rust could result.
Likewise avoid moisture in the air cleaner housing.
If the housing becomes saturated, it could act as a choke, making cycle difficult to start.
Dry completely with a good chamois.
Clean and polish all aluminum and stainless surfaces with the appropriate metal polish.
Finally finish up with a coat of good wax polish on all painted and chrome surfaces.
Clean the chain (if you have one).
Spray off all the built up residues with WD40.
Lube the chain. , Fill your tank with gas as full as it can go.
This is very important.
As fuel ages, more volatile components tend to change, leaving sludge and gummy substances that can affect the carburetor.
Run the bike so the gas and fuel stabilizer get to the carburetor and fuel injectors.then turn off the fuel and run it dry , Shut off the gas petcock and drain the gas from the carburetor bowls.
Consult your manual for location of drain screws.
Of course if you have a fuel-injected bike, there isn’t anything to drain. , Oil chemistry changes over periods of extended storage.
Old oil can develop acidic qualities, which can corrode engine parts. , Get on the bike, hold the front brake and bounce the bike up and down to work the front suspension.
This will keep the rubber seals from drying out and protect the exposed fork tubes. , With your oil-squirting device, get some motor oil in the cylinders.
Approximately one teaspoon of oil will work well.
Tuck the plug wires away somewhere safe so they do not arc, then spin the motor with the starter for a few revolutions to get the oil spread around.
Remember to keep your face away from the spark plug holes.
Oil will squirt out! Clean and gap the plugs and put them back in.
Replace plug wires. , Some batteries may require charging every four weeks with a “Battery Tender” type of charger.
Built up sulfates on the plates can ruin a battery during cold storage and inactivity.
A thin coat of Vaseline to the terminals on the battery can prevent corrosion.
This small step will mean an easier spring start up and no extra cost of battery replacement. , Drain, flush and replace antifreeze if necessary.
We suggest this replacement be done every two years.
Do not leave the antifreeze level low or empty, this could lead to rust or corrosion of the cooling system.
Check all other fluid levels at this time. , Lube suspension and pivot points.
Lube the drive shaft (if you have one).
Check the air cleaner and the fuel filter.
Look at brake pads.
Give your bike a good once over. ,, This will insulate the bike from becoming damp.
We also suggest storing your bike with all the weight removed from the wheels.
A bike stand or some blocking works if you have a wheeled lift.
A center stand and some blocking will work too.
Do not store your bike near any ozone emitting devices, such as motors, freezers, furnaces or electric heaters.
The gasses created by the above will deteriorate rubber parts. , Spray a little WD40 in the tail pipe(s).
Cover your tail pipe opening and the air intake with plastic wrap and a rubber band.
You can also cover drain hoses as well.
This will prevent any opportunistic pests from making a cozy winter home in your bike. , -
Step 3: Add a fuel stabilizer to the gas tank.
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Step 4: If you have a carburetor
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Step 5: drain your float bowls.
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Step 6: Once the engine is warm
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Step 7: you can change the oil and filter.
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Step 8: Using an oil-squirting device
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Step 9: put oil over the stationary tubes on the front forks.
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Step 10: Remove spark plug wires
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Step 11: and carefully with a spark plug wrench remove the plugs.
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Step 12: You may want to remove the battery.
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Step 13: If your bike has a liquid cooling system
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Step 14: check it’s level of anti-freeze with a hygrometer.
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Step 15: Lube your cables.
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Step 16: Clean and treat all leather with a high quality dressing.
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Step 17: If your storage location is bare concrete
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Step 18: we suggest using a piece of plywood
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Step 19: or old thick carpet.
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Step 20: With a clean cloth
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Step 21: wipe good quality light machine oil over all the metal surfaces
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Step 22: except the disc brakes.
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Step 23: Do not run the engine for short periods of time over the storage period
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Step 24: this can lead to condensation due to engine and combustion byproducts in the oil.
Detailed Guide
You will need, cleaning cloths, spark plug wrench, a trickle battery charger, four or five quarts of high quality oil, new oil filter, oil can or device to get oil in the cylinders, chain lube (if you have a chain drive), fuel stabilizer, spray can of WD40, a breathable motorcycle cover, kitchen plastic wrap, rubber bands, vinyl or plastic gloves, items to clean and wax your bike.
Lastly a nice location for the bike to spend the winter, a heated secure garage would be ideal.
Avoid wind, dripping water, vermin, mildew, and chemical fumes.
A gentle wash detergent and water will suffice.
By removing road grime and insects you will protect the finish of the bike.
Avoid spraying water directly into the opening of the muffler.
If baffles get wet and are not dried prior storage, internal rust could result.
Likewise avoid moisture in the air cleaner housing.
If the housing becomes saturated, it could act as a choke, making cycle difficult to start.
Dry completely with a good chamois.
Clean and polish all aluminum and stainless surfaces with the appropriate metal polish.
Finally finish up with a coat of good wax polish on all painted and chrome surfaces.
Clean the chain (if you have one).
Spray off all the built up residues with WD40.
Lube the chain. , Fill your tank with gas as full as it can go.
This is very important.
As fuel ages, more volatile components tend to change, leaving sludge and gummy substances that can affect the carburetor.
Run the bike so the gas and fuel stabilizer get to the carburetor and fuel injectors.then turn off the fuel and run it dry , Shut off the gas petcock and drain the gas from the carburetor bowls.
Consult your manual for location of drain screws.
Of course if you have a fuel-injected bike, there isn’t anything to drain. , Oil chemistry changes over periods of extended storage.
Old oil can develop acidic qualities, which can corrode engine parts. , Get on the bike, hold the front brake and bounce the bike up and down to work the front suspension.
This will keep the rubber seals from drying out and protect the exposed fork tubes. , With your oil-squirting device, get some motor oil in the cylinders.
Approximately one teaspoon of oil will work well.
Tuck the plug wires away somewhere safe so they do not arc, then spin the motor with the starter for a few revolutions to get the oil spread around.
Remember to keep your face away from the spark plug holes.
Oil will squirt out! Clean and gap the plugs and put them back in.
Replace plug wires. , Some batteries may require charging every four weeks with a “Battery Tender” type of charger.
Built up sulfates on the plates can ruin a battery during cold storage and inactivity.
A thin coat of Vaseline to the terminals on the battery can prevent corrosion.
This small step will mean an easier spring start up and no extra cost of battery replacement. , Drain, flush and replace antifreeze if necessary.
We suggest this replacement be done every two years.
Do not leave the antifreeze level low or empty, this could lead to rust or corrosion of the cooling system.
Check all other fluid levels at this time. , Lube suspension and pivot points.
Lube the drive shaft (if you have one).
Check the air cleaner and the fuel filter.
Look at brake pads.
Give your bike a good once over. ,, This will insulate the bike from becoming damp.
We also suggest storing your bike with all the weight removed from the wheels.
A bike stand or some blocking works if you have a wheeled lift.
A center stand and some blocking will work too.
Do not store your bike near any ozone emitting devices, such as motors, freezers, furnaces or electric heaters.
The gasses created by the above will deteriorate rubber parts. , Spray a little WD40 in the tail pipe(s).
Cover your tail pipe opening and the air intake with plastic wrap and a rubber band.
You can also cover drain hoses as well.
This will prevent any opportunistic pests from making a cozy winter home in your bike. ,
About the Author
Nathan Ramirez
Professional writer focused on creating easy-to-follow DIY projects tutorials.
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