How to Dye Naturally Black Hair Gray

Step-by-Step Guide

1. 1

   Step 1: Choose your method wisely.

   Consider whether to use an at-home dye kit or professional dyes, or go to the salon.
   
   Carefully consider the costs, processes, and risks involved in each method.
   
   For the salon method, familiarize yourself with the salons in your area.
   
   Costs and products will vary amongst salons.
   
   Look on their websites or call in to get a sense of what they're using and how much it will cost.
   
   Talking to a stylist in person will give you a clearer sense of what your process and cost will be.
   
   Consider the box kit method only as a last resort.
   
   When making an extreme color change, especially once that involves extensive bleaching, there is a risk of ending up with a color very different from what you want, or even seriously damaging your hair.
   
   For the box kit method, read online reviews to see specifically which box dyes work best on black hair.
   
   A popular box kit is L’Oréal Paris Preference Les Blondissimes LB01:
   Extra Light Ash Blonde.
   
   It won’t dye your hair platinum, but some people claim that it gets them down to an ashy blonde in one go.Using professional-quality products (bleach, developer, red gold corrector, and toner) is the preferred method amongst those who choose to bleach their hair at home.
   
   This method offers more flexibility and power than box dye kits, plus you have the opportunity to buy in bulk to save money.
2. 2

   Step 2: Be prepared for the costs.

   Regardless of which method you choose, it will likely take multiple bleachings to achieve the gray tone that you want.
   
   Definitely take the time and expense (i.e. multiple salon visits, multiple purchases of dye kits or professional dyeing materials) into consideration before you decide on which method to use. , One DIY expert says that unless your hair is light to medium colored, and relatively short, thick and healthy, you should go to a salon to have your hair bleached.
   
   Once it’s bleached, however, you can do your roots on your own.Bleaching your hair will damage it, no matter what.
   
   That’s why it’s so important to start with the healthiest hair possible, regardless of whether you’re bleaching your hair at home or at the salon.
   
   Even if your hair feels healthy now, you can make it healthier by avoiding using chemicals and heat on it in the weeks/months leading up to bleaching it.
   
   You might even try using a weekly deep-conditioning hair mask. , In the weeks or months leading up to the bleaching, avoid using harsh hair products and chemicals, and heat styling tools on your hair.
   
   If your hair feels damaged, do weekly deep-conditioning masks until it feels healthy enough to be bleached.
   
   Experts recommend waiting at least 2 weeks between applying any chemicals to your hair.
   
   This time frame may be shortened or lengthened depending on how healthy your hair looks and feels.Use good-quality shampoos and conditioners that moisturize your hair without adding buildup or stripping your hair of its natural oils.
   
   Look for: low pH, oil (argan, avocado, olive), glycerin, glyceryl stearate, propylene glycol, sodium lactate, sodium PCA, and alcohols that start with “c” or “s.”Avoid: strongly fragranced products, alcohols whose names include “prop”, sulfates, and any products that claim to add volume to your hair., If you decide to dye your hair gray at home, you’ll need to start by bleaching it.
   
   The following materials can be purchased from a beauty supply store (Sally Beauty Supply is a popular one) or online:
   Bleach powder:
   This comes in packets or tubs.
   
   If you plan on bleaching your hair more than once, a tub is the cheaper long-term option.
   
   Cream developer:
   Cream developer reacts with the powder to bleach your hair.
   
   It comes in different volumes ranging from 10 (weakest) to 40 (strongest); the higher the volume, the quicker it will turn your hair blonde, but also the more damaging it will be.
   
   Many stylists recommend using 10 to 20 volume.
   
   It will take longer for the mixture to lighten your hair, but it will also be much less damaging than using the higher volumes.
   
   If you have fine, fragile hair, use a 10-volume developer.
   
   For dark, coarse hair, a 30- or 40-volume developer might be necessary.A 20-volume developer is your safest bet for effectiveness and gentleness, so if in doubt, choose that one!Do not use a 50-volume developer at home.
   
   Red gold corrector (optional):
   Red gold correctors often come in little packages that you can add to your bleaching mixture to help reduce brassiness.
   
   This is an optional step, but it’s highly recommended as the whiter your hair, the better the gray color will turn out., Toners are what take your hair from yellow to white, which is the ideal base for gray.
   
   They come in a variety of shades, including blue, silver and purple.
   
   Even if you’re not dyeing your hair at home, a toner can be used every few weeks to maintain your color.
   
   You can use toners to neutralize unwanted colors in your hair and remove brassiness.
   
   For example, to neutralize hair that’s too golden, choose a toner shade that’s opposite gold on the color wheel, such as a blue or violet ash-based toner.Some toners need to be mixed with developers before being applied to your hair, while others come ready to apply.
   
   Both types are effective, so just choose whichever you appeals to you. , You should be able to find this at your local beauty shop, but if you can’t, online retailers like Amazon sell professional-quality brands of gray hair dye.
   
   If you purchase it online, pay attention to reviews.
   
   If the veins on the underside of your wrist look blue or purple, opt for a cool white gray tone; if your veins look green or yellow, go for a warmer, steely gray., If you’re bleaching, toning, and dyeing your hair at home, you’ll need an applicator/tint brush, a plastic mixing bowl, a plastic spoon, gloves, plastic hair clips, towels, and plastic wrap or a plastic shower cap.
   
   Avoid metal tools as these will react with the bleach. , Purple shampoos and conditioners specifically made for gray hair can help keep it toned and reduce the chances of some of your strands fading to yellow/blonde.If these aren't available to you, at least buy shampoos and conditioners that are designed for colored hair.
   
   Your best bet is to purchase professional shampoos and conditioners, rather than drug store brands.
   
   Ask your stylist to recommend products formulated for gray or bleached hair.
   
   Some shampoos can even deposit color into your locks as you use them.
   
   If you would prefer not to use a color-depositing shampoo, at least buy a color-depositing treatment to help keep your color fresh and reduce the money you spend on re-dyeing your hair., A patch test is necessary to make sure that you’re not allergic to anything in the bleach mixture.
   
   A strand test will help you calculate how long you need to leave the bleach mixture on your hair.
   
   To do a patch test, create a tiny amount of the mixture you will use on your hair and place a small dab of it behind your ear.
   
   Leave it for 30 minutes, wipe any excess off, then try not to touch it or get it wet for 48 hours.
   
   If after 48 hours that area of skin is fine, go ahead with bleaching your hair.
   
   To do a strand test, prepare a small amount of the bleach mixture and apply it to a strand of your hair.
   
   Check it every 10 to 15 minutes until it reaches the desired color.
   
   Note the time it took to reach this color so that you have an idea of how long it will take on your whole head.
   
   If you only do one test, do the patch test.
   
   A severe allergic reaction could be fatal., Rub some extra virgin coconut oil between your palms to warm it up, then massage it into your hair and scalp.
   
   You needn’t wash the oil out before bleaching.
   
   Leave the coconut oil on your hair for at least three hours before bleaching.
   
   If possible, leave it on your hair overnight, the night before you bleach your hair.
   
   Coconut oil is an effective hair moisturizer because it is made up of molecules that are small enough to penetrate the hair shaft., Wear old clothes that you don't mind staining and drape an old towel over your shoulders.
   
   You will also need to protect your skin from the bleach mixture, which can cause burning and irritation.
   
   Wear flexible, disposable rubber gloves to protect your hands.
   
   Have a small stack of old towels ready in case you need to clean the bleach mixture off your skin or elsewhere. , Using a plastic spoon, place as much bleach powder as you need in a plastic mixing bowl.
   
   The powder should come with easy-to-follow instructions.
   
   If the powder doesn’t come with instructions, use roughly a 1:1 ratio between the powder and the developer cream.
   
   Add one scoop of powder and then one scoop of developer, mixing them as you go, until you have enough. , Add the correct amount of developer to the bowl containing the powder, and mix the two together with a plastic spoon.
   
   Aim for a thick, creamy consistency, similar to gravy.
   
   Unless stated otherwise on the packaging, the ratio of developer to powder should be roughly 1:1 — 1 spoonful of powder per 1 spoonful of developer., This step is optional, but it can help reduce brassiness and make your hair whiter, which will help you achieve a better gray.
   
   Once the powder and developer are combined, add some red gold corrector to the bleach-developer mixture.
   
   Read the package instructions for how much you need to add. , Use a tint brush to apply the mixture to your hair.
   
   Work with 1- to 2-inch strips of hair and start at your ends, brushing the mixture upwards and leaving roughly an inch of roots (you’ll do these last).
   
   It is important that you leave your roots for last.
   
   The warmth of your scalp will cause your roots to develop (lighten) faster than the rest of your hair.
   
   Work from the back of your head to the front of your head.
   
   This will make it much easier to keep track of what hair you’ve already applied bleach/dye too.
   
   It will also help prevent the bleach mixture from getting on your clothes.
   
   Unless your hair is quite short, use clips to section of your hair as you work on it.
   
   Be sure to use plastic (not metal) clips, since metal can react to the bleach mixture. , Once you’ve applied the bleach mixture to all of your hair, including your roots, check to ensure that your hair is fully saturated with the mixture.
   
   You can do this by massaging your hair around your head and feeling for any spots that are dryer than the rest.
   
   When you come across these spots, add some more of the bleach mixture to them and massage it into your strands — avoid massaging it into your scalp, though, as this can cause irritation.
   
   Use a mirror to help you get a clear view of the back of your head. , You can also use a clear plastic shower cap.
   
   As the bleach works, your scalp may begin to itch and sting.
   
   This is normal.
   
   If the tingling and stinging on your scalp become too painful, remove the plastic wrap and wash out the bleach.
   
   If your hair is still too dark, you can try to bleach it again with a lower-volume developer in 2 weeks if it's healthy enough.
   
   Avoid the temptation to apply any heat to your hair at this point, as applying heat could end with your hair falling out completely. , After 15 minutes, check a strand of hair to see how the bleaching has progressed.
   
   Spritz the strand of hair with water from a spray bottle and use a towel to wipe some of the bleach mixture away so that you can clearly see the color of the strand.
   
   If your hair still looks dark, reapply more bleach to the strand of hair, replace the plastic wrap and allow it to sit for another 10 minutes.
   
   Continue checking your hair every 10 minutes until it has become completely blonde. , If you do, your hair may break off and/or fall out completely.
   
   Bleach is capable of dissolving hair, so be very careful with it. , Remove the plastic wrap/cap and run your head under cool water until all traces of the bleach are gone.
   
   Wash, condition, and rinse your hair, then gently squeeze the water from it with a clean towel. , Your hair should be a pale or bright shade of yellow.
   
   If it is yellow, proceed to the instructions for toning your hair.
   
   If your hair is orange or still dark, you will need to bleach it again, waiting at least 2 weeks between bleachings.Remember that the darker the blonde, the darker the gray will be, so bleach your hair as light as you want your gray shade to be.
   
   Note that you won’t need to reapply the bleach to your roots if your roots are whiter than the rest of your hair.
   
   Just apply the bleach to the parts you want to lighten further.
   
   You may even want to stretch the bleaching process over several weeks.
   
   Depending on how dark, coarse and thick your hair is, it could take up to 5 bleachings to turn it pale yellow., Just like with the bleaching process, you should wear old clothes and gloves.
   
   Have a stack of towels handy and make sure your hair is completely dry before starting. , If your toner comes premixed and ready to use, you can skip this step.
   
   In a clean plastic mixing bowl, mix the toner and developer according to the instructions on the packaging.
   
   The ratio is usually 1 part toner to 2 parts developer. , Use your tinting brush to paint your hair with the toner, following the same technique as when you applied the bleach (ends to roots, back to front). , Work your hands through your hair to ensure that the toner is saturating your hair and evenly applied.
   
   Use a mirror to have a look at the back of your head to make sure the toner is fully covering your hair. , Allow the toner to sit in your hair for the length of time specified on the packaging.
   
   Depending on the strength of the toner and the color of your hair, it could take as little as 10 minutes for your hair to go white. , Depending on the type of toner you use and how on light your hair already is, the toner could work more quickly or slowly than expected.
   
   Check your hair every 10 minutes to ensure that you don’t end up with blue hair: use a towel to scrape some toner off a thin strand of hair to get a sense of what color it’s going.
   
   If your hair’s not the desired color yet, reapply toner to that strand and put it back up beneath the plastic cap/wrap. , Run your hair under cool water until all traces of the toner are gone.
   
   Shampoo and condition as normal, and gently squeeze the water from your hair with a clean towel. , Let your hair air dry or, if you are impatient, dry it with your blow dryer’s coolest setting.
   
   Now that the bleaching and toning processes are complete, your hair should be white.
   
   If you missed a spot, wait a few days and repeat the process on the strand of hair in question. , If you’re less fussy about what color of gray your hair turns out to be, you can skip the strand test.
   
   The patch test, however, is absolutely necessary, as an allergic reaction could be fatal.To do a strand test, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific dye that you buy.
   
   It generally requires rubbing a small amount of the developer (or the entire mixture, in some cases) on a patch of skin behind your ear, then leaving it for 48 hours. , Wear old clothes and an old towel over your shoulders, and wear rubber gloves (vinyl and latex disposable gloves are popular).
   
   Have some old hand towels nearby in case you need to wipe dye off your skin.
   
   You may even want to rub a bit of petroleum jelly or thick moisturizer around your hairline to prevent the dye from staining your skin. , Exactly what you need to do to prepare your dye mixture will depend on the specific type of gray hair dye that you purchase.
   
   Some box kits are available, although most DIY home hair dye aficionados swear by professional-quality products.
   
   As with bleaching your hair at home, use a plastic bowl and a tint brush to mix your dye. , Read the instructions on the box to learn whether your hair needs to be wet or dry during application, as this differs depending on which dye you use.
   
   If your hair is long, clip it into sections.
   
   Consider using plastic clips to separate your hair into 8 sections — 4 on each side, moving vertically from the nape of your neck up to your forehead.
   
   If your hair is particularly thick, you may need even more sections (at least 2 additional ones on the front sides of your head). , Using the tint brush, brush the dye on to 2-inch sections of your hair, moving up from the ends toward the roots.
   
   Stop roughly a half-inch to an inch from your roots.
   
   The warmth from your scalp causes the color on your roots to process more quickly, so you’ll save your roots for last. , Once the lengths of your hair are covered in dye, go back around your head and cover all of your roots. , Once you’ve covered all of your hair in dye, use a mirror to check the back of your head and ensure even application.
   
   Gently work your hands through your hair and feel for even distribution.
   
   If you come across any spots that feel dry, add more dye. , Cover your hair with plastic wrap or a shower cap and wait for the dye to process.
   
   The processing time will differ depending on which dye you’re using.
   
   Thirty minutes is an average processing time. , Some dye manufacturers will suggest a general processing timeframe — for example, between 20 and 40 minutes.
   
   After 20 minutes, you could wipe a small amount of color off a strand with a towel and check on the color.
   
   If you’re happy with the color, you can wash it out, if you’d like it to be richer, reapply dye to the strand and leave it on longer.
   
   Just make sure you don’t go over the recommended processing time, as this could damage your hair or even make it fall out.
   
   If you're unsure of how long to leave the color on your hair, you’re best off doing a patch test beforehand.
   
   That will give you a good idea of how long to leave the dye on to get the color you want. , Once the color has processed, rinse it out with cool water, then shampoo and condition as normal. , After washing your hair, gently squeeze the water out with a towel — don’t rub your hair quickly or be otherwise rough with your hair while drying it.
   
   You’ll also want to avoid heat styling it for as long as possible after dyeing it.
   
   Ideally, you’ll avoid heat styling your hair all together. , Remember that you will need to actively care for your hair now that it’s been bleached.
   
   Adding the gray color to it will have helped bring some life back into your hair, but it will still be delicate. , Bleached hair is fragile and damaged hair, even if it is in the best condition it can be.
   
   Take care of your hair, don't shampoo it if it feels dry and don't go overboard on the brushing, straightening and curling.
   
   Most of the time, you’ll want to let your hair air dry.
   
   If you must blowdry your hair, be sure to use the coolest setting.
   
   Avoid applying heat or otherwise manipulating your natural hair texture as much as possible, as this can cause your hair to break off — you could end up with chunks of hair sticking out from your head that are only an inch or two long.If you simply must straighten your hair, you can achieve a straightening effect with a blow dryer and a round brush — do this as an alternative to using a straightener.
   
   If done properly, this technique should eliminate the need to use a straightening iron.You’ll want to comb your hair with a wide-tooth comb., Bleached hair is porous and can more easily be discolored by water.
   
   Priming your hair before you wash it will help repel the water and protect your color.
   
   Pre-wash primers can be purchased at salons, beauty supply shops, drugstores, and online.
   
   They often contain oils, for example coconut or almond oil, to help boost your hair’s moisture before washing., Many specialists recommend washing you hair only once a week after bleaching it.Shampoo strips your hair of its natural oils, and your bleached hair will likely need all the oil it can get.
   
   If you regularly work out/sweat or use a lot of products in your hair, you can likely bump this up to twice a week.
   
   You can also substitute dry shampoo for a wash.
   
   When you dry your hair, gently pat and squeeze it with a towel — don’t rub the towel quickly over your head as this can cause more damage to your hair., Use products specially made for bleached, color-treated, and damaged hair: a purple toning shampoo and a deep conditioner at the very least.
   
   Avoid products that volumize your hair, as these can dry it out.
   
   A good hair oil will keep your hair looking softer and less frizzy.
   
   Some people swear by extra virgin coconut oil to reduce frizz and help condition their hair. , Avoid drugstore brands as these may only coat your hair, leaving it feeling waxy and weighed down.
   
   Ask your stylist to recommend a professional deep conditioning treatment. , Try to renew your color when your roots are an inch at the longest.
   
   This will help keep your hair looking more even.
   
   If you let your roots grow longer, it may be more difficult to touch them up without having them clash against the rest of your hair. , The process for bleaching, toning, and dyeing your roots is almost exactly the same as for doing your entire head.
   
   The only difference is that you’ll be doing just your roots, and not the rest of your hair.
   
   If the rest of your color needs a touchup, after bleaching your roots you can apply the toner to all of your hair, then after that’s rinsed out, apply the gray dye to your whole hair, too.
   
   This time though, start at the roots and work down, since the roots will need more color.
   
   Some experts recommend leaving a bit of roots at all times just to keep your scalp and hair follicles healthier.
   
   If you choose to do this, you’ll never apply the bleach to your entire roots, as you’ll be wanting to keep it off your scalp.
3. 3

   Step 3: Consider the quality of your hair before bleaching it.

4. 4

   Step 4: Build your hair’s health.

5. 5

   Step 5: Gather your materials for bleaching your hair at home (optional).

6. 6

   Step 6: Get a toner (if bleaching/dyeing at home).

7. 7

   Step 7: Buy a gray hair dye (if dyeing at home).

8. 8

   Step 8: Buy hair dyeing tools (if dyeing at home).

9. 9

   Step 9: Buy good-quality shampoo and conditioner.

10. 10

    Step 10: Do patch and strand tests before bleaching.

11. 11

    Step 11: Apply coconut oil to hair before bleaching (optional).

12. 12

    Step 12: Protect your clothes and skin.

13. 13

    Step 13: Place the bleach powder in the mixing bowl.

14. 14

    Step 14: Combine bleach powder with developing cream.

15. 15

    Step 15: Consider adding red gold corrector to the mixture.

16. 16

    Step 16: Apply the mixture dry hair that hasn’t been washed in 24 to 48 hours.

17. 17

    Step 17: Check that the mixture is evenly distributed on your hair.

18. 18

    Step 18: Cover your hair in plastic wrap.

19. 19

    Step 19: Check on your hair periodically.

20. 20

    Step 20: Do not leave the bleach in your hair for over 50 minutes.

21. 21

    Step 21: Wash out the bleach.

22. 22

    Step 22: Decide whether you need to re-bleach.

23. 23

    Step 23: Prepare yourself for toning.

24. 24

    Step 24: Mix the toner.

25. 25

    Step 25: Apply the toner to your damp hair.

26. 26

    Step 26: Ensure that the toner is evenly applied.

27. 27

    Step 27: Cover your hair with plastic wrap or a shower cap.

28. 28

    Step 28: Check your hair every 10 minutes.

29. 29

    Step 29: Wash out the toner.

30. 30

    Step 30: Examine your hair.

31. 31

    Step 31: Do patch and strand tests before dyeing.

32. 32

    Step 32: Protect your clothes and skin.

33. 33

    Step 33: Prepare the dye mixture.

34. 34

    Step 34: Prepare your hair for dyeing.

35. 35

    Step 35: Apply the dye to the lengths of your hair.

36. 36

    Step 36: Apply the dye to your roots.

37. 37

    Step 37: Ensure even application.

38. 38

    Step 38: Cover your hair and wait.

39. 39

    Step 39: Check on your hair.

40. 40

    Step 40: Wash the color out.

41. 41

    Step 41: Be gentle with your hair.

42. 42

    Step 42: Enjoy your gray hair!

43. 43

    Step 43: Be very gentle with your hair.

44. 44

    Step 44: Treat your hair with a pre-wash primer (optional).

45. 45

    Step 45: Leave time between washings.

46. 46

    Step 46: Know which products to use on your hair.

47. 47

    Step 47: Deep condition your hair at least once a week.Purchase a good deep-conditioning treatment from a salon or a beauty supplies shop.

48. 48

    Step 48: Try not to let your roots grow too long.

49. 49

    Step 49: Know how to touch up your roots and hair.

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