How to Build a Built‐In Bookcase

Step-by-Step Guide

1. 1

   Step 1: Take your measurements.

   By this point, you should probably know where in your house you want to put the bookshelf.
   
   The first step will be to measure that area’s height and width.
   
   Then determine a depth that it acceptable to you for your shelving.
   
   Measure twice to make sure you got accurate measurements.
   
   Be sure to measure the width from both the top near the ceiling, the middle, and lastly the bottom near the floor.
   
   This is because not all rooms’ walls, ceilings, and floors are perfectly square.
   
   You would want to be aware of this before you cut your supplies!
2. 2

   Step 2: Prepare your pieces.

   Once you have your measurements, begin with your desired depth and draw a straight line that distance away from the first edge of the plywood for the path you will cut.
   
   Using a table saw, you will cut the plywood into straight sections of that width.
   
   Remember the cut made by the table saw will take 1/8” out of the board.
   
   In order to maintain the full desired width of the shelf, position the table saw’s blade 1/8 inch outside the line you drew for your width.
   
   After you complete that cut, measure your width from the freshly cut edge to the desired shelf width again.
   
   Once again, cut outside your mark and repeat until you have produced the number of shelving lengths you have determined you will need. , A “rabbet joint” is a simple groove that you will slice in the wood with a circular saw.
   
   Set your circular saw to cut at a depth of 3/8 inch.
   
   Cut along the top side of both the left and right ends of what will be your very top shelf.
   
   Continue in 1/8 inch increments, cutting inward until the width of each end’s rabbet joint is as wide at the plywood.
   
   This will allow the top shelf to rest squarely, upside down on the top for a square fit. , On what will be your side(s) (and center dividers, if applicable), mark the location of what will be the center shelf.
   
   Securely clamp the pegboard on top to use as a template to drill through in order to create a grid of nice, even holes to insert pegs, allowing for adjustable shelving.
   
   Take care with the depth to which you drill your holes.
   
   You should go no deeper than 1/8 inch less than the length of the pegs you intend to use to support your shelves.
   
   This way the pegs do not get stuck in the holes and there is enough left sticking out to adequately support your shelving.
   
   The best way to drill a consistent depth is to place a piece of tape on the drill bit and drill each hole just until the tape meets the surface of the board.
   
   Begin by drilling 2 inches in from the front and the back edges and 4 inches above the bottom.
   
   Continue working your way up drilling pairs of holes through the pegboard every 2 inches until 4 inches from the top. , Measure and mark what will be the location of your center shelf. (Note:
   This shelf will be fastened and immobile, unlike the others, after installation).' Position the 1 inch x 2 inch piece, cut to the depth of the shelving, as indicated above, with its top edge to where the secured middle shelf will rest upon.
   
   Drill at least 2 pilot holes and sink screws through the 1”x2”, driving them below the surface of the wood, securing the 1”x2” to the side.
   
   Then also drill at least 2 pilot holes and sink screws from the top, permanently securing the middle shelf to the same 1”x2”, ensuring stability and support for the unit.
   
   Use wood filler to fill and cover the screws completely so they can no longer be seen. , In the same manner as for the middle shelf, cut 1”x2”s the width of the shelves and use as support blocks for the bottom shelf.
   
   Use the same steps as above.
   
   Drill pilot holes followed by 2 screws on the side securing the 1”x2” block to the side(s) and then 2 more pilots’ holes and screws from the top, securing the bottom shelf to the 1”x2” support.
   
   Be sure to sink the screws well and cover with wood filler so they can no longer be seen. , Be sure that the now mostly assembled bookshelf is square.
   
   Measure and cut a back panel of plywood.
   
   Use 1 inch nails along the back panel, starting with one corner.
   
   Be sure to keep the bookshelf square as you finish attaching the back. , This needs to be carefully measured and cut in order to fit perfectly.
   
   Cut 1”x2” trim to the length of the top, sides, and bottom edges of the bookshelf.
   
   Also, cut a piece the width of the secured middle shelf that is visible from the front.
   
   Using a miter box, cut the intersection of each piece of trim at a precise 45° angle.
   
   Once trim is in place, nail down with finishing nails (ones with small heads that can be sank beneath the surface of the installed trim).
   
   Use a handheld router with a ½” round over bit to make sharp edges on the trim smoother.
   
   Fill all sunken nail holes with wood filler in preparation for staining or priming and painting. , If bookshelf is to be placed over a heat register, you will need to create a vent so the air can enter the room.
   
   Find a vent, similar to as pictured below and cut the needed space to accommodate the vent.
   
   You may not want to actually install the vent until after you have stained or primed and painted the unit and attached trim.
3. 3

   Step 3: Cut rabbet joints.

4. 4

   Step 4: Drill holes for adjustable shelving.

5. 5

   Step 5: Attach center shelf support blocks.

6. 6

   Step 6: Attach shelves and supporting materials.

7. 7

   Step 7: Attach your back panel.

8. 8

   Step 8: Attach the trim.

9. 9

   Step 9: Cut for the vent

10. 10

    Step 10: if necessary.

Detailed Guide

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