How to Build a Panoramic Tripod Head
Find the rotation/pivot point by doing the test described in the External Link below., Cut a piece of wood for the base., Cut the side., Line up the two four inch edges so that the side is sitting on top of the base to form an “L” (see the picture...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Find the rotation/pivot point by doing the test described in the External Link below.
Use a piece of very flat, thick (5/8” or so) oak plywood or a plank of hardwood.
Make it about 5” by 4” (12 cm x 10 cm). , To make sure the camera has enough clearance when you swing it down, make the tripod a little over five inches tall.
The width would be the same four inches as the base. , Drill holes up through the bottom of the base into the side and screw the two together.
A little glue and maybe some bracing might help – the less flex the better. , The exact distance from the side is critical as it will need to run through the center of the lens.
So place your camera on a table and measure the height from the table to the center of the lens.
This is the distance the hole in the base needs to be from the side.
If you’re not using a swivel under the base, you’ll need a fairly large hole here, as you’ll need to install a socket (or “insert nut”) so the tripod can screw into the tripod head.
The dimensions of that socket will depend on your tripod – if you’re planning to mount this to the screw that normally attaches to the camera, you want a “1/4-20” socket. , It also needs to be in the same plane as the hole in the base.
In other words, if you’re looking at the unit from the side, the side hole will appear directly above the base hole. , To figure the length, start with that previously measured distance between the entrance pupil and the screw socket determined in step 1 – this distance is shown in green (it will be different for every camera).
Add between a half inch and an inch on either side.
The width need only be a couple inches. , Drill another hole 4 1/8 inches (or whatever your measurement is) down the arm towards its other end.
This last hole is where the camera attaches, so it needs to be 1/4" wide.
Insert a 1/4-20 thumbscrew through this hole (1/4-20 means 1/4” wide, with a thread pitch of 20, which is the most common pitch). , You may have to gouge out a bit of the hole in the arm so the full head can sink into the arm and not hit your lens.
Push the screw through the arm, then through the side, then use a washer and a wingnut to secure it. , Drill a hole through the center of it, and push a flat head machine screw through it, then through the hole in the base.
As with the hole in the arm, you will probably need to gouge out the hole in the swivel a bit so you can prevent the head from sticking out – that surface will need to be flush with the tripod.
Secure the screw with washer and wingnut. , Position it as near as possible to the center to maximize stability. , To finish things up, you can varnish, seal or paint, but don’t get any of it on the rotating surfaces – they’ll stick every time you adjust the arm or swivel.
Attaching a small level is highly recommended. ,, -
Step 2: Cut a piece of wood for the base.
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Step 3: Cut the side.
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Step 4: Line up the two four inch edges so that the side is sitting on top of the base to form an “L” (see the picture above).
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Step 5: Drill a hole near the center of the base.
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Step 6: Make the hole in the side about 4 1/2 to 5 inches above the base – your camera will need room to swing downwards when you’re shooting a picture of the sky.
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Step 7: Cut the arm.
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Step 8: Drill a hole at one end for the arm to attach to the side piece where it will pivot.
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Step 9: Attach the arm to the side by using a flathead machine screw .
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Step 10: (Optional) Cut a piece of wood about the size of the base for the swivel
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Step 11: preferably big enough so it sticks out a bit – that will allow you to put markings on it so you can see how many degrees you’ve swiveled.
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Step 12: Install a socket or insert nut as described in Step 5 for the base section.
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Step 13: Sand all the parts.
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Step 14: Use your new panoramic tripod (and some software) to take gorgeous pictures.
Detailed Guide
Use a piece of very flat, thick (5/8” or so) oak plywood or a plank of hardwood.
Make it about 5” by 4” (12 cm x 10 cm). , To make sure the camera has enough clearance when you swing it down, make the tripod a little over five inches tall.
The width would be the same four inches as the base. , Drill holes up through the bottom of the base into the side and screw the two together.
A little glue and maybe some bracing might help – the less flex the better. , The exact distance from the side is critical as it will need to run through the center of the lens.
So place your camera on a table and measure the height from the table to the center of the lens.
This is the distance the hole in the base needs to be from the side.
If you’re not using a swivel under the base, you’ll need a fairly large hole here, as you’ll need to install a socket (or “insert nut”) so the tripod can screw into the tripod head.
The dimensions of that socket will depend on your tripod – if you’re planning to mount this to the screw that normally attaches to the camera, you want a “1/4-20” socket. , It also needs to be in the same plane as the hole in the base.
In other words, if you’re looking at the unit from the side, the side hole will appear directly above the base hole. , To figure the length, start with that previously measured distance between the entrance pupil and the screw socket determined in step 1 – this distance is shown in green (it will be different for every camera).
Add between a half inch and an inch on either side.
The width need only be a couple inches. , Drill another hole 4 1/8 inches (or whatever your measurement is) down the arm towards its other end.
This last hole is where the camera attaches, so it needs to be 1/4" wide.
Insert a 1/4-20 thumbscrew through this hole (1/4-20 means 1/4” wide, with a thread pitch of 20, which is the most common pitch). , You may have to gouge out a bit of the hole in the arm so the full head can sink into the arm and not hit your lens.
Push the screw through the arm, then through the side, then use a washer and a wingnut to secure it. , Drill a hole through the center of it, and push a flat head machine screw through it, then through the hole in the base.
As with the hole in the arm, you will probably need to gouge out the hole in the swivel a bit so you can prevent the head from sticking out – that surface will need to be flush with the tripod.
Secure the screw with washer and wingnut. , Position it as near as possible to the center to maximize stability. , To finish things up, you can varnish, seal or paint, but don’t get any of it on the rotating surfaces – they’ll stick every time you adjust the arm or swivel.
Attaching a small level is highly recommended. ,,
About the Author
Karen Gomez
Experienced content creator specializing in creative arts guides and tutorials.
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