How to Build a Picnic Table
Obtain a durable lumber suitable for the project., Cut the following boards, using a rafter or speed square to scribe the correct angles: Cut 12 2X6 boards 72 inches (183 cm) long., Lay out the top boards on sawhorses, setting them so the best side...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Obtain a durable lumber suitable for the project.
The project in the photos uses pressure treated southern yellow pine, recycled from an old deck.
Choosing premium lumber, or even a synthetic material made from recycled plastics will afford a higher quality finished project.
The table built for this article is 72 inches (183 cm) long, 32 inches (81,3 cm) wide, and 32 inches (81,3 cm) tall, and required the following materials: 14
- 2x6 72 inches (183 cm) long. 5
- 2X4 30 inches (76,2 cm) long. 3 lbs. 12d (3 1/2 inch) hot dipped galvanized nails. (Substitute 3 1/2 inch exterior (deck) screws for greater strength) -
Step 2: Cut the following boards
6 til boardplate. 2 til seat rails. 4 til sitteplate.
Cut 3 2X4 boards, 30 inches (76,2 cm) from long point to long point, with 45 degree angles on each end.
Cut 4 2X6 boards 35 inches (88,9 cm) long from long point to short point, with a 25 degree angle on each end.
Til bein.
Note that you will also have to cut the diagonal bracing underneath the table top, but it is best to scribe this board to fit after the rest of the top is fastened together. ,, Toenail these to hold them in position until the table is flipped over, when you can finish nailing the top. ,, Drive a nail into the leg at this mark, halfway to the head.
This will support the seat rails, which you will install next. , Nail these through into the legs. , Scribe a 2X4 to fit diagonally between these marks, as shown in the photo.
Cut these, and nail them securely into place. , Lay your seat boards (again, 2X6s, 72 inches
- 183 cm
- long, on the seat rails that should be sticking out from beneath the table on each side.
You will want to try them out for size, shifting them in or out along the rail until they are comfortable for you.
When you have these rails in a desirable position, mark the location of the outer seat board, remove them, and saw a 45 degree angle on the rail so none of it will protrude from beneath the seats. , Drive nails through the table top boards into their rails to finish securing them. ,, You can use a silicone waterproofing sealer, an exterior polyurethane (many so-called polyurethane products actually degrade in ultraviolet light), or a semitransparent exterior wood stain for this purpose. , -
Step 3: using a rafter or speed square to scribe the correct angles: Cut 12 2X6 boards 72 inches (183 cm) long.
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Step 4: Lay out the top boards on sawhorses
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Step 5: setting them so the best side (least knots
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Step 6: cracks
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Step 7: etc) is down
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Step 8: since this will be the bottom of the table top.
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Step 9: Nail the 2X4 boards with the 45 degree angle cuts to the bottom of the table top
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Step 10: spaced 4 inches (10 cm) from either end and the third centered between the ends.
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Step 11: Position the 35 inch (88
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Step 12: 9 cm) 2X6s so they are centered over the short point of the table top end rails as shown in the photo
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Step 13: and nail them securely to the rails.
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Step 14: Measure up (down from the top when the table is flipped) 17 inches (43
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Step 15: 2 cm).
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Step 16: Center the seat rails (also 2X6 72 inches - 183 cm - long)
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Step 17: centered between the inverted table legs
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Step 18: resting on the nails you have driven in at 17 inches.
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Step 19: Mark the centers of both the table top middle rail and the seat rails.
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Step 20: Invert your table so it is now standing on its legs.
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Step 21: Reposition the seat boards and nail them off.
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Step 22: Cut the corners of the table top at a 45 degree angle about 2 inches (5 cm) from the corners so they are rounded
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Step 23: to make it less likely anyone will bump into them.
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Step 24: Sand and finish the table as you want.
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Step 25: Set your table up in a shady spot and enjoy it.
Detailed Guide
The project in the photos uses pressure treated southern yellow pine, recycled from an old deck.
Choosing premium lumber, or even a synthetic material made from recycled plastics will afford a higher quality finished project.
The table built for this article is 72 inches (183 cm) long, 32 inches (81,3 cm) wide, and 32 inches (81,3 cm) tall, and required the following materials: 14
- 2x6 72 inches (183 cm) long. 5
- 2X4 30 inches (76,2 cm) long. 3 lbs. 12d (3 1/2 inch) hot dipped galvanized nails. (Substitute 3 1/2 inch exterior (deck) screws for greater strength)
6 til boardplate. 2 til seat rails. 4 til sitteplate.
Cut 3 2X4 boards, 30 inches (76,2 cm) from long point to long point, with 45 degree angles on each end.
Cut 4 2X6 boards 35 inches (88,9 cm) long from long point to short point, with a 25 degree angle on each end.
Til bein.
Note that you will also have to cut the diagonal bracing underneath the table top, but it is best to scribe this board to fit after the rest of the top is fastened together. ,, Toenail these to hold them in position until the table is flipped over, when you can finish nailing the top. ,, Drive a nail into the leg at this mark, halfway to the head.
This will support the seat rails, which you will install next. , Nail these through into the legs. , Scribe a 2X4 to fit diagonally between these marks, as shown in the photo.
Cut these, and nail them securely into place. , Lay your seat boards (again, 2X6s, 72 inches
- 183 cm
- long, on the seat rails that should be sticking out from beneath the table on each side.
You will want to try them out for size, shifting them in or out along the rail until they are comfortable for you.
When you have these rails in a desirable position, mark the location of the outer seat board, remove them, and saw a 45 degree angle on the rail so none of it will protrude from beneath the seats. , Drive nails through the table top boards into their rails to finish securing them. ,, You can use a silicone waterproofing sealer, an exterior polyurethane (many so-called polyurethane products actually degrade in ultraviolet light), or a semitransparent exterior wood stain for this purpose. ,
About the Author
Martha Roberts
Enthusiastic about teaching DIY projects techniques through clear, step-by-step guides.
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