How to Build an Adjustable Dog Agility Seesaw
Cut 2 pieces of the 2"x4"s 28" for the uprights., Cut 2 pieces of the 2"x4"s 40" for the feet. , Measure to find the centers of the feet and mark with the pencil. , Nail one upright to each foot, making sure it's in the middle and the bottom of the...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Cut 2 pieces of the 2"x4"s 28" for the uprights.
Use 2 nails in each. , Angle it up so it crosses the upright about 12"-18" from the bottom.
Draw a line on the angled piece where it crosses the upright (it will be about a 45º angle).
Also draw a line on the upright where it sticks out past the end of the foot (that is, you'll cut it so it will be even with the end of the foot). ,, Check it in all four places where the angled pieces will go; it should fit everywhere.
Since this angled piece fits everywhere, you can use it as a template for the other 3 pieces.
Lay it on the 2"x4"
mark, and cut. , They go on the inside of the feet, with their ends even with the ends of the feet, and flush against the uprights.
Put one nail in the bottom, then fit and nail the top, driving the nail at an angle through the support and into the upright.
Then put another nail in the bottom.
Make sure all nails are flush with the wood. , These marks are where your holes will be.
Also measure across each upright and mark the middle (do this at the top and bottom of each upright), lay your yardstick on the upright aligned with these marks, and draw lines that cross your 8"
12"
etc. marks.
Where your lines cross it where you will drill your holes for the pipe. , With the point of your drill bit right where the lines cross, drill each hole. (You can put the upright on 2 scrap pieces of the 2"x4" to help you not drill into the floor underneath.) ,, Just a few should do it.
Now the base is done! , Measure from each end to find the center (it probably won't be exactly at 6'), and mark it. , You want the fulcrum (tipping point) to be 1" to 2" closer to one end of the board so that end will stay down (the teeter is a one-way obstacle), so measure and mark these.
You can loosely attach two of the pipe straps so that they "bridge" the 2" mark, and put the teeter together by running the pipe through one 24" hole, through the pipe straps under the board, and out the other 24" hole.
Then do a not-very-scientific drop test by putting a 3-lb. weight (box of laundry detergent) on the up end 12" from the end and timing how long it takes to hit the floor.
It should be less than 3 seconds.
In this case, the 1" mark was used; see what you like. , Paint the contact areas yellow.
You'll probably need 3 coats for the yellow.
Paint it once and let dry.
Then paint it again, and this time lightly sprinkle play sand on it while it's still wet; try to get it kind of even. (You only need sand on the top of the board of course.) When it's dry, sweep off any loose sand, then apply the third coat of paint.
When the yellow's dry, do the same for the blue area; you'll probably just need the first coat with the sand and the second on top of it.
Viola! A beautiful no-slip surface, just like the real thing! ,, If using the 1/2" straps, don't screw all the way in, but leave them a bit loose so the pipe will slip through without too much trouble. , -
Step 2: Cut 2 pieces of the 2"x4"s 40" for the feet.
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Step 3: Measure to find the centers of the feet and mark with the pencil.
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Step 4: Nail one upright to each foot
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Step 5: making sure it's in the middle and the bottom of the upright is even with the bottom of the foot.
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Step 6: For the angled pieces
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Step 7: take one of the remaining pieces of 2"x4" and line up the bottom corner of it with the inside bottom corner of one end of one of the feet.
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Step 8: Cut along these lines.
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Step 9: Check to make sure the angled bar fits: Line up the bottom with the inside end of the foot and the top flush against the side of the upright.
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Step 10: Nail each angled piece in place.
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Step 11: From the bottom of each upright
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Step 12: measure up and mark at 8"
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Step 13: and 24".
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Step 14: Drill the holes.
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Step 15: Cut 2 17" pieces from the remaining 2"x4"s. Nail them on either side of the uprights (which are on the inside) to connect the two sides
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Step 16: and make sure they are also even with the bottom of each side.
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Step 17: If it feels a little wobbly
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Step 18: reinforce the base with wood screws until it is stable
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Step 19: mostly where the feet
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Step 20: uprights
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Step 21: and cross-pieces connected.
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Step 22: Choose a back side of your 2"x12"x12' teeter board.
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Step 23: Place the fulcrum.
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Step 24: Take the pipe straps off the board and mark the contact areas
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Step 25: 36" from the ends for USDAA
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Step 26: 42" for AKC.
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Step 27: Paint the base all over with the same blue paint
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Step 28: 2 coats.
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Step 29: Screw the 3 pipe straps onto the back of the teeter board
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Step 30: with the pipe in place to use as a guide.
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Step 31: Assemble your teeter and enjoy!
Detailed Guide
Use 2 nails in each. , Angle it up so it crosses the upright about 12"-18" from the bottom.
Draw a line on the angled piece where it crosses the upright (it will be about a 45º angle).
Also draw a line on the upright where it sticks out past the end of the foot (that is, you'll cut it so it will be even with the end of the foot). ,, Check it in all four places where the angled pieces will go; it should fit everywhere.
Since this angled piece fits everywhere, you can use it as a template for the other 3 pieces.
Lay it on the 2"x4"
mark, and cut. , They go on the inside of the feet, with their ends even with the ends of the feet, and flush against the uprights.
Put one nail in the bottom, then fit and nail the top, driving the nail at an angle through the support and into the upright.
Then put another nail in the bottom.
Make sure all nails are flush with the wood. , These marks are where your holes will be.
Also measure across each upright and mark the middle (do this at the top and bottom of each upright), lay your yardstick on the upright aligned with these marks, and draw lines that cross your 8"
12"
etc. marks.
Where your lines cross it where you will drill your holes for the pipe. , With the point of your drill bit right where the lines cross, drill each hole. (You can put the upright on 2 scrap pieces of the 2"x4" to help you not drill into the floor underneath.) ,, Just a few should do it.
Now the base is done! , Measure from each end to find the center (it probably won't be exactly at 6'), and mark it. , You want the fulcrum (tipping point) to be 1" to 2" closer to one end of the board so that end will stay down (the teeter is a one-way obstacle), so measure and mark these.
You can loosely attach two of the pipe straps so that they "bridge" the 2" mark, and put the teeter together by running the pipe through one 24" hole, through the pipe straps under the board, and out the other 24" hole.
Then do a not-very-scientific drop test by putting a 3-lb. weight (box of laundry detergent) on the up end 12" from the end and timing how long it takes to hit the floor.
It should be less than 3 seconds.
In this case, the 1" mark was used; see what you like. , Paint the contact areas yellow.
You'll probably need 3 coats for the yellow.
Paint it once and let dry.
Then paint it again, and this time lightly sprinkle play sand on it while it's still wet; try to get it kind of even. (You only need sand on the top of the board of course.) When it's dry, sweep off any loose sand, then apply the third coat of paint.
When the yellow's dry, do the same for the blue area; you'll probably just need the first coat with the sand and the second on top of it.
Viola! A beautiful no-slip surface, just like the real thing! ,, If using the 1/2" straps, don't screw all the way in, but leave them a bit loose so the pipe will slip through without too much trouble. ,
About the Author
Lauren Harris
Professional writer focused on creating easy-to-follow lifestyle tutorials.
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