How to Fix a Broken Bicycle Chain
Take a picture, draw out, or memorize how the chain is currently attached., Shift the bike into the middle gears in both the front and back, noting which gears you're on., Remove the broken chain and clean it with a degreaser and water., Use a...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Take a picture
Note how it moves in and out of the pulley wheels, if there are any.
Chains wrap around the derailleur (shifting device in the back of the bike) in a particular, but not difficulty to understand, patter you'll need to replicate later.
Some chains are simply threaded on the gear.
If you work carefully you won't even need to remove the chain from the bike.
But, depending where the link broke, there is a chance it slips off while cleaning or fixing.
Take a quick picture now. -
Step 2: draw out
The broken chain won't move, but the bike will be in soft, easy gears when you get it back on, as the extreme gears are the ones that tend to cause the chain to snap if it is weak.
If you only have one set of gears on this bike, you'll need a new chain link to proceed.
The following method shortens the chain by a link, meaning it likely won't fit on your gears when finished., Use a toothbrush to get into the chainlinks, scrubbing off grime, rust, and dirt.
A dirty chain is under much more stress than a clean one, and is much more primed to break.
Clean it so that the chain links can move freely in your hands, paying attention specifically to any "stuck" or slow moving links.
Clean the chain now to prevent fixing it again shortly.
If, even after cleaning, the chain is still rusty and stiff, you'll likely need a new chain.
A rough, stiff chain can even damage your gears and derailleurs if left on for too long. , This tool, resembling a medieval torture device, is actually easy to use.
Each link has two round pins in it, attaching it to the other links.
Find the broken link, and note the pin that is keeping it attached to the rest of the chain.
Slowly turn your chain break tool so the poker pushes the pin out of the link about halfway.
Do not push it completely through.
If you have a spare pin (many chainbreakers come with one), then you should feel free to use this pin, as it will be much stronger and safer to ride on., Keep the pin still in the rest of the chain.
You only want to remove the broken link, keeping the pin in the chain.
This pin will attach to the open link on the other side of the chain to put everything back together., Before you fix the link, you need to get the chain onto the bike! Slide it through the pulley wheels they way you noted when you took the chain off.
In general, the order is pretty intuitive, as there are small metal guards that hold the chain onto the gears.
Simply thread the chain so that it stays between these guards and the pulley wheels.
To make pushing the pin in easier, turn the chain so that the exposed pin in the chain faces you, not the wheel., The link with the pin in it should be on the outside, so that you can push it through all four holes (two on each link) to complete your chain. , Before, you screwed the tool in to push the pin out of the link.
Now you'll be screwing the tool in to push the link though.
Work slowly, keeping your hand on the links to ensure it is all lined up. , It can also help to move the chain tool to the other side of the joint just made, and push the pin very slightly to free the two outside plates of the link from the central section, preventing binding. , Do not use WD-40, or any other product not made for bike chains.
Flip the bike over and pedal it with one hand, dropping bits of lubricant onto the chain with the other. 10-15 drops should do.
Then, use a damp rag and lightly pat down the chain of any excess oil.
When you run a finger on the chain it should come up slick, but not covered in a puddle of lubricant. , More often than not, the bike won't even let you get into these gears, as the chain is not long enough to reach.
However, the strain of trying to hit these bigger cogs will cause another break if you aren't careful.
Try to keep your chain straight between the front and back gears.
Don't let it stretch diagonally across the gears by being all the way to the right on the front gears and all the way to the left on the back gears at the same time.
This chain fix is generally temporary, and you should add a new link or get a new chain shortly afterward. -
Step 3: or memorize how the chain is currently attached.
-
Step 4: Shift the bike into the middle gears in both the front and back
-
Step 5: noting which gears you're on.
-
Step 6: Remove the broken chain and clean it with a degreaser and water.
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Step 7: Use a chainbreak tool to carefully push the pin halfway out of the broken link.
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Step 8: Pull the broken link off the pin and discard.
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Step 9: Thread the chain back onto the bike the way it came off.
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Step 10: Fit the two end of the chain into one another so the holes line up.
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Step 11: Use your chainbreak tool in reverse to push the pin through
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Step 12: completing the link.
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Step 13: Grab the chain on each side of your newly connected links and move it from side to side to loosen up the new connection.
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Step 14: Lubricate your chain with bike grease.
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Step 15: Avoid using your biggest gear in the back gears
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Step 16: as the chain is now a link too short.
Detailed Guide
Note how it moves in and out of the pulley wheels, if there are any.
Chains wrap around the derailleur (shifting device in the back of the bike) in a particular, but not difficulty to understand, patter you'll need to replicate later.
Some chains are simply threaded on the gear.
If you work carefully you won't even need to remove the chain from the bike.
But, depending where the link broke, there is a chance it slips off while cleaning or fixing.
Take a quick picture now.
The broken chain won't move, but the bike will be in soft, easy gears when you get it back on, as the extreme gears are the ones that tend to cause the chain to snap if it is weak.
If you only have one set of gears on this bike, you'll need a new chain link to proceed.
The following method shortens the chain by a link, meaning it likely won't fit on your gears when finished., Use a toothbrush to get into the chainlinks, scrubbing off grime, rust, and dirt.
A dirty chain is under much more stress than a clean one, and is much more primed to break.
Clean it so that the chain links can move freely in your hands, paying attention specifically to any "stuck" or slow moving links.
Clean the chain now to prevent fixing it again shortly.
If, even after cleaning, the chain is still rusty and stiff, you'll likely need a new chain.
A rough, stiff chain can even damage your gears and derailleurs if left on for too long. , This tool, resembling a medieval torture device, is actually easy to use.
Each link has two round pins in it, attaching it to the other links.
Find the broken link, and note the pin that is keeping it attached to the rest of the chain.
Slowly turn your chain break tool so the poker pushes the pin out of the link about halfway.
Do not push it completely through.
If you have a spare pin (many chainbreakers come with one), then you should feel free to use this pin, as it will be much stronger and safer to ride on., Keep the pin still in the rest of the chain.
You only want to remove the broken link, keeping the pin in the chain.
This pin will attach to the open link on the other side of the chain to put everything back together., Before you fix the link, you need to get the chain onto the bike! Slide it through the pulley wheels they way you noted when you took the chain off.
In general, the order is pretty intuitive, as there are small metal guards that hold the chain onto the gears.
Simply thread the chain so that it stays between these guards and the pulley wheels.
To make pushing the pin in easier, turn the chain so that the exposed pin in the chain faces you, not the wheel., The link with the pin in it should be on the outside, so that you can push it through all four holes (two on each link) to complete your chain. , Before, you screwed the tool in to push the pin out of the link.
Now you'll be screwing the tool in to push the link though.
Work slowly, keeping your hand on the links to ensure it is all lined up. , It can also help to move the chain tool to the other side of the joint just made, and push the pin very slightly to free the two outside plates of the link from the central section, preventing binding. , Do not use WD-40, or any other product not made for bike chains.
Flip the bike over and pedal it with one hand, dropping bits of lubricant onto the chain with the other. 10-15 drops should do.
Then, use a damp rag and lightly pat down the chain of any excess oil.
When you run a finger on the chain it should come up slick, but not covered in a puddle of lubricant. , More often than not, the bike won't even let you get into these gears, as the chain is not long enough to reach.
However, the strain of trying to hit these bigger cogs will cause another break if you aren't careful.
Try to keep your chain straight between the front and back gears.
Don't let it stretch diagonally across the gears by being all the way to the right on the front gears and all the way to the left on the back gears at the same time.
This chain fix is generally temporary, and you should add a new link or get a new chain shortly afterward.
About the Author
Jordan Ortiz
With a background in education and learning, Jordan Ortiz brings 3 years of hands-on experience to every article. Jordan believes in making complex topics accessible to everyone.
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