How to Frame a Pocket Door
Determine whether or not the wall you've chosen for pocket door installation is a good candidate., Verify that the wall doesn't have any electrical wiring or pipes running through it., Replace the existing header., Remove pieces of the wallboard...
Step-by-Step Guide
-
Step 1: Determine whether or not the wall you've chosen for pocket door installation is a good candidate.
The wall needs to be wide enough to accommodate twice the door's width, plus 1 inch (2.54cm).
You'll also need to know whether or not the wall is load-bearing.
You can determine this by the wall's placement in the house.
Generally, load-bearing walls will be in a central location, and they will be perpendicular to the floor joists.
If you have a basement, you can easily identify a load-bearing wall by checking the direction of the joists in the ceiling of the basement.
If you're installing a pocket door in a load-bearing wall, you may need temporary ceiling support while you replace the existing header.
This might mean consulting a professional contractor. -
Step 2: Verify that the wall doesn't have any electrical wiring or pipes running through it.
Look for switches or electric outlets on the wall.
Use a stud finder with a wire-finding feature, which should be available and affordable at most hardware stores, to check for electrical wiring.
If you have attic and basement access, wiring can usually be rerouted.
However, if you find pipes in the wall, this usually means that you can't put a pocket door there. , Use a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade to cut through the nails in order to remove the door jamb. , Be careful to keep the cut shallow.
Take out the section of drywall which is above the door in order to frame the new header.
Use a section of 2 by 4 (5.08 by
10.16cm) as the new header.
This will need to be 1 inch (2.54 cm) more than twice the length of the pre-existing header, since it will need to span the distance of the entire rough opening.
When you're replacing a header in a load-bearing wall, it is recommended that you use 2 by 12's (5.08 by
30.48 cm) for the new header.
Be sure that your saw is safety-rated for wood containing nails.
Tilt the door out of the opening. , This will create a gap, which you can use to access the shims.
Saw through the cluster of nails surrounding the shims. , Remove the drywall from above the header leaving a margin of about 2 to 3 inches (5.08 to
7.62cm) of drywall under the ceiling. , Cut away the studs making enough room for the pocket door's framing.
Cut the nails joining the studs to the soleplate (the piece of framing which runs along the bottom of the wall). , Generally, a 1 by 4 (2.54 by
10.16cm) plate will enable the door to clear the carpeting without cutting it.
If there is no carpet, the brackets of most door kits can be installed directly into the floor. , Measure the rough opening and put the new stud in at the same distance as the stud which is in the opposite side. ,, -
Step 3: Replace the existing header.
-
Step 4: Remove pieces of the wallboard using a wood-cutting blade.
-
Step 5: Remove the existing door by pulling off the molding.
-
Step 6: Tip the saw blade down to cut shallowly into the drywall and remove it from between the studs.
-
Step 7: Remove the header using a reciprocating saw.
-
Step 8: Determine the height of the header by adding 3 1/4 inches (8.26 cm) to the length of the new door
-
Step 9: and then add the height of the soleplate
-
Step 10: which will only be necessary if the floor is carpeted.
-
Step 11: Cut the stud tops to this determined length to support the new header.
-
Step 12: Install the new header using nails or screws and then cut and install the soleplate to the floor.
-
Step 13: Finish the installation of your new pocket door according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Detailed Guide
The wall needs to be wide enough to accommodate twice the door's width, plus 1 inch (2.54cm).
You'll also need to know whether or not the wall is load-bearing.
You can determine this by the wall's placement in the house.
Generally, load-bearing walls will be in a central location, and they will be perpendicular to the floor joists.
If you have a basement, you can easily identify a load-bearing wall by checking the direction of the joists in the ceiling of the basement.
If you're installing a pocket door in a load-bearing wall, you may need temporary ceiling support while you replace the existing header.
This might mean consulting a professional contractor.
Look for switches or electric outlets on the wall.
Use a stud finder with a wire-finding feature, which should be available and affordable at most hardware stores, to check for electrical wiring.
If you have attic and basement access, wiring can usually be rerouted.
However, if you find pipes in the wall, this usually means that you can't put a pocket door there. , Use a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade to cut through the nails in order to remove the door jamb. , Be careful to keep the cut shallow.
Take out the section of drywall which is above the door in order to frame the new header.
Use a section of 2 by 4 (5.08 by
10.16cm) as the new header.
This will need to be 1 inch (2.54 cm) more than twice the length of the pre-existing header, since it will need to span the distance of the entire rough opening.
When you're replacing a header in a load-bearing wall, it is recommended that you use 2 by 12's (5.08 by
30.48 cm) for the new header.
Be sure that your saw is safety-rated for wood containing nails.
Tilt the door out of the opening. , This will create a gap, which you can use to access the shims.
Saw through the cluster of nails surrounding the shims. , Remove the drywall from above the header leaving a margin of about 2 to 3 inches (5.08 to
7.62cm) of drywall under the ceiling. , Cut away the studs making enough room for the pocket door's framing.
Cut the nails joining the studs to the soleplate (the piece of framing which runs along the bottom of the wall). , Generally, a 1 by 4 (2.54 by
10.16cm) plate will enable the door to clear the carpeting without cutting it.
If there is no carpet, the brackets of most door kits can be installed directly into the floor. , Measure the rough opening and put the new stud in at the same distance as the stud which is in the opposite side. ,,
About the Author
Susan White
Writer and educator with a focus on practical hobbies knowledge.
Rate This Guide
How helpful was this guide? Click to rate: