How to Install a Grab Bar
Assemble the necessary tools., Examine the grab bar kit., Determine mounting location., Mark the location of the stud., Pre-drill pilot holes., Install the wall anchors., Seal the seams with silicone caulk., Test at the end by pulling on it.
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Assemble the necessary tools.
Grab bars are relatively simple to install for experienced home repairers as well as weekenders with the proper tools.
To do the job right, you'll need:
Pen or pencil Masking tape Electric drill Grab bar, available at home repair stores Glass and tile bit, sized to the wall anchors General purpose or wooden metal bit, also sized Hand screwdriver Wall screws Silicone shower caulk -
Step 2: Examine the grab bar kit.
Take everything out of the box, making sure the grab bar is in good condition.
Check to see what screws are included and whether or not the anchors match the diameter of your tile bit.
If not, you'll need to get a new tile bit. , This will vary depending on who the intended user is, as well as the location of the studs in the wall.
In general, the bar needs to be about waist high for the shower user, to make it useful.
Locate two studs on the wall to screw the grab bar to.
Studs are typically spaced 16 inches (40.6 cm) apart, measured from center to center.
You can locate them by knocking on the wall above the tile, checking in the room on the other side of the bath wall, or using a stud sensor.
Use a stud finder where there is not tile to find the studs.
Can usually measure 16 inches (40.6 cm) on center from where you know there is a stud (usually a corner), but it won’t always work.
Be sure to find both edges of the stud. , Extend the stud marks down to the grab bar location with a level, then place a strip of 1-1/2 in. masking tape on the tile to indicate the location of the studs.
A good location for a bar is at an angle between two wall studs on the long back wall of the tub.
The bottom of the bar should be about 6 to 10 in. above the top of the tub.
For studs 16 in. apart, a 24-in. long bar provides a nice angle.
Place marks on the masking tape where the screws will go to position the bar properly.
Drilling through the masking tape is typically done to keep the drill bit from skating across the tile and scraping it up.
It also helps to keep the tile from cracking in some cases. , Since most showers are tiled, you'll need to use a glass and tile bit.
These usually feature a spade tip, but you can also find diamond ones which are slightly longer lasting.
Most anchors will recommend the appropriate hole size to drill.
Find a drill bit that is as close to the size of the shank of the screw as possible without being bigger.
Most bars will need about an 1/8-in. hole with a glass-and-tile bit at the mark closest to the center of each stud to confirm the stud location.
If you hit solid wood, drill the remaining holes.
If not, poke a piece of bent wire through the hole and probe until you feel the stud.
Reposition the grab bar and mark the holes over the new stud position.
In most cases, the unused hole will be covered by the mounting plate on the grab bar.
Once you are through the tile, to go through wood or cement board (behind the tile), change to a wood bit afterwards to finish drilling.
If you forget to change, the drill will be less effective and may ruin the bit.
Use a 1/4-in. glass-and-tile or masonry bit to enlarge the holes through the tile, but use a 5/32 in. bit to drill into the wood. , Different wall anchors are installed in different ways, but most varieties are simply plastic wedges that are hammered into the holes to provide something for the wall screws to grip onto.
Put these into the holes you've drilled, then slide the screws through the grab bar, put the grab bar in the wall, and tighten.
Follow the specific instructions included with your grab bar kit.
No. 10 or 12 stainless steel pan head screws are commonly used for the purpose.
If so, make sure the screws penetrate the studs at least an inch.
In most cases, 2 in. screws are long enough.
Don't use toggle bolts on the ends of the bar.
Toggle bolts rely on the strength of the wall backing, usually drywall or concrete boards.
Distributing 200+ lbs. over a square inch or two of this type of material will not make for a sufficiently sturdy grab bar. , To keep water from seeping through the tile into the holes you've drilled, you need to put a small bead of silicone around the seam.
Cut a small angle through the tube of caulk, then run a very small bead around the grab bar, where it meets the wall.
Some people like to caulk the back of the flange before screwing the bar to the wall.
This helps to create extra security and strength in the bar. , Give the caulk an hour or two to dry thoroughly, then give a small amount of force to make sure it is not loose, then try more force.
Give the bars a good solid yank to test their holding power.
Let the caulk dry for at least 24 hours before running water in the shower. -
Step 3: Determine mounting location.
-
Step 4: Mark the location of the stud.
-
Step 5: Pre-drill pilot holes.
-
Step 6: Install the wall anchors.
-
Step 7: Seal the seams with silicone caulk.
-
Step 8: Test at the end by pulling on it.
Detailed Guide
Grab bars are relatively simple to install for experienced home repairers as well as weekenders with the proper tools.
To do the job right, you'll need:
Pen or pencil Masking tape Electric drill Grab bar, available at home repair stores Glass and tile bit, sized to the wall anchors General purpose or wooden metal bit, also sized Hand screwdriver Wall screws Silicone shower caulk
Take everything out of the box, making sure the grab bar is in good condition.
Check to see what screws are included and whether or not the anchors match the diameter of your tile bit.
If not, you'll need to get a new tile bit. , This will vary depending on who the intended user is, as well as the location of the studs in the wall.
In general, the bar needs to be about waist high for the shower user, to make it useful.
Locate two studs on the wall to screw the grab bar to.
Studs are typically spaced 16 inches (40.6 cm) apart, measured from center to center.
You can locate them by knocking on the wall above the tile, checking in the room on the other side of the bath wall, or using a stud sensor.
Use a stud finder where there is not tile to find the studs.
Can usually measure 16 inches (40.6 cm) on center from where you know there is a stud (usually a corner), but it won’t always work.
Be sure to find both edges of the stud. , Extend the stud marks down to the grab bar location with a level, then place a strip of 1-1/2 in. masking tape on the tile to indicate the location of the studs.
A good location for a bar is at an angle between two wall studs on the long back wall of the tub.
The bottom of the bar should be about 6 to 10 in. above the top of the tub.
For studs 16 in. apart, a 24-in. long bar provides a nice angle.
Place marks on the masking tape where the screws will go to position the bar properly.
Drilling through the masking tape is typically done to keep the drill bit from skating across the tile and scraping it up.
It also helps to keep the tile from cracking in some cases. , Since most showers are tiled, you'll need to use a glass and tile bit.
These usually feature a spade tip, but you can also find diamond ones which are slightly longer lasting.
Most anchors will recommend the appropriate hole size to drill.
Find a drill bit that is as close to the size of the shank of the screw as possible without being bigger.
Most bars will need about an 1/8-in. hole with a glass-and-tile bit at the mark closest to the center of each stud to confirm the stud location.
If you hit solid wood, drill the remaining holes.
If not, poke a piece of bent wire through the hole and probe until you feel the stud.
Reposition the grab bar and mark the holes over the new stud position.
In most cases, the unused hole will be covered by the mounting plate on the grab bar.
Once you are through the tile, to go through wood or cement board (behind the tile), change to a wood bit afterwards to finish drilling.
If you forget to change, the drill will be less effective and may ruin the bit.
Use a 1/4-in. glass-and-tile or masonry bit to enlarge the holes through the tile, but use a 5/32 in. bit to drill into the wood. , Different wall anchors are installed in different ways, but most varieties are simply plastic wedges that are hammered into the holes to provide something for the wall screws to grip onto.
Put these into the holes you've drilled, then slide the screws through the grab bar, put the grab bar in the wall, and tighten.
Follow the specific instructions included with your grab bar kit.
No. 10 or 12 stainless steel pan head screws are commonly used for the purpose.
If so, make sure the screws penetrate the studs at least an inch.
In most cases, 2 in. screws are long enough.
Don't use toggle bolts on the ends of the bar.
Toggle bolts rely on the strength of the wall backing, usually drywall or concrete boards.
Distributing 200+ lbs. over a square inch or two of this type of material will not make for a sufficiently sturdy grab bar. , To keep water from seeping through the tile into the holes you've drilled, you need to put a small bead of silicone around the seam.
Cut a small angle through the tube of caulk, then run a very small bead around the grab bar, where it meets the wall.
Some people like to caulk the back of the flange before screwing the bar to the wall.
This helps to create extra security and strength in the bar. , Give the caulk an hour or two to dry thoroughly, then give a small amount of force to make sure it is not loose, then try more force.
Give the bars a good solid yank to test their holding power.
Let the caulk dry for at least 24 hours before running water in the shower.
About the Author
Debra Wells
Brings years of experience writing about DIY projects and related subjects.
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