DIY & Repairs

How to Install a Whirlpool Electric Dryer

Locate the terminal block (shown here)., Remove the screws from the strain relief (lower section)., Insert the power supply cord into the strain relief., Remove the conduit connector and screws from the strain relief (lower section)., Insert the...

29 Steps 5 min read Advanced

Step-by-Step Guide

  1. Step 1: Locate the terminal block (shown here).

    Remove the hold-down screw and the terminal block cover.

    Now if you are installing the power supply cord strain relief, go on to steps 2 and
    3.

    If you are installing the direct wire strain relief, go on to steps 4 and
    5. , Put two clamp section tabs into the hole below the terminal block opening with one tab pointing up and the other pointing down.

    Secure the tabs with one hand and tighten the strain relief screws so the clamp sections are held together., It should lie horizontal, as shown, and fit snugly enough so as to stay in by itself--do not tighten the screws around the cord.

    Now go on to step
    6. , Put the threaded portion of the strain relief through the hole below the terminal block opening.

    Screw the conduit connector onto the strain relief threads., It should lie horizontal, as shown, and fit snugly enough so as to stay in by itself.

    Tighten the strain relief screw directly against the wire cable, as shown.

    Now go on to step
    6. , For the power supply cord you can use a 4-wire receptacle OR a 3-wire receptacle--follow steps 7-10 for the 4-wire receptacle OR follow steps 11-13 for the 3-wire receptacle For the direct wire you can use a 4-wire direct connection OR a 3-wire direct connection--follow steps 14-17 for the 4-wire direct connection OR follow steps 18-20 for the 3-wire direct connection.

    IMPORTANT:
    Mobile homes require a 4-wire connection and some local codes prohibit 3-wire connections, so make sure you are adhering to the standards for your situation before you make a decision. , Remove the central silver terminal block screw and take the neutral ground wire from the screw on the lower left, as shown., They should meet in the center of the terminal.

    Replace and tighten the central screw over top of these wires., Replace and tighten the screw over top of the wire., Tighten the screws over top of these wires, then put back the terminal block cover (which you took out in step 1) and secure it with the hold-down screw.

    Now go on to step 21, "Venting Requirements."

    Remove the central silver terminal block screw., Replace and tighten the screw over top of the wire., Tighten the screws over top of these wires, then put back the terminal block cover (which you took out in step 1) and secure it with the hold-down screw.

    Now go on to step 21, "Venting Requirements."

    It should be at least five feet in length so you can move your dryer with relative ease.

    Strip 5" of outer covering from the end of the cable, leaving bare ground wire in its place.

    Cut 1½" each from the remaining three wires.

    Shape the wires' ends into hooks, then remove the central silver terminal block screw and take the neutral ground wire from the screw on the lower left, as shown., They should meet in the center of the terminal, with the neutral wire's hook facing to the right.

    Squeeze the wires together and replace and tighten the central screw over top of these wires., Replace and tighten the screw over top of the wire., Tighten the screws over top of these wires, then put back the terminal block cover (which you took out in step 1) and secure it with the hold-down screw.

    Now go on to step 21, "Venting Requirements."

    It should be at least five feet in length so you can move your dryer with relative ease.

    Strip 3½" of outer covering from the end of the cable, leaving bare ground wire in its place.

    Cut 1" each from the remaining three wires.

    Shape the wires' ends into hooks, then remove the central silver terminal block screw., Squeeze the hooked ends together and replace and tighten the screw over top of the wire., Tighten the screws over top of these wires, then put back the terminal block cover (which you took out in step 1) and secure it with the hold-down screw.

    Now go on to step 21, "Venting Requirements."

    This step is more of a list of stipulations, but do not skip reading it--it outlines several potential hazards you want to avoid.

    First of all, your vent must be heavy metal, not plastic or metal foil.

    Select the route that follows the straightest/most direct path to the outdoors, with as few elbows/turns as possible.

    Bent the vent carefully so as not to hinder its effectiveness.

    Use clamps to seal all joints, and in terms of the vent's "elbows," a 45° angle is much more effective than 90°.

    Exhaust vents in mobile homes must be securely fastened to a flame resistant portion of the home and the vent's ending should be outside the structure itself.

    Remember, improper venting can cue moisture damage to woodwork, furniture, wallpaper, etc., so as you move on be sure to follow all instructions exactly. , Use caulk to seal the outside wall around the exhaust hood, to prevent leakage., Use the following chart: , The vent MUST fit inside the hood, secured with a 4" clamp.

    Run the vent to the dryer location following the venting requirements above., Take a large, flat piece of cardboard (such as a piece from the carton your dryer came in) and gently lay the dryer down onto it., Use a wrench to turn these until the diamond marking on the middle of each leg is no longer visible., Make sure the dryer vent fits over the exhaust outlet, and secure the connection with a 4" clamp., Do not remove the cardboard yet, and take extra care not to damage the vent.

    Once the dryer is in place, you can remove the cardboard and level the legs using a wrench.

  2. Step 2: Remove the screws from the strain relief (lower section).

  3. Step 3: Insert the power supply cord into the strain relief.

  4. Step 4: Remove the conduit connector and screws from the strain relief (lower section).

  5. Step 5: Insert the direct wire cable into the strain relief.

  6. Step 6: Choose your electrical connection type.

  7. Step 7: Choose either flanged space connectors or ring connectors.

  8. Step 8: Connect the neutral ground wire and neutral central wire (which should be white in color).

  9. Step 9: Connect the end of the ground wire (which should be green or bare) to the lower left.

  10. Step 10: Connect the remaining wires to the sections on either side of the middle screw.

  11. Step 11: Choose either flanged space connectors or ring connectors.

  12. Step 12: Connect the neutral central wire (which should be white in color) to the center of the terminal.

  13. Step 13: Connect the remaining wires to the sections on either side of the middle screw.

  14. Step 14: Prepare your 4-wire cable for direct connection.

  15. Step 15: Connect the neutral ground wire and the hooked end of the neutral wire (which should be white in color).

  16. Step 16: Connect the end of the ground wire (which should be green or bare) to the lower left.

  17. Step 17: Connect the hooked ends of the remaining wires to the sections on either side of the middle screw.

  18. Step 18: Prepare your 3-wire cable for direct connection.

  19. Step 19: Connect the hooked end of the neutral wire to the center of the terminal

  20. Step 20: with the wire's hook facing to the right.

  21. Step 21: Connect the hooked ends of the remaining wires to the sections on either side of the middle screw.

  22. Step 22: Venting Requirements.

  23. Step 23: Install the exhaust hood of the vent.

  24. Step 24: Determine the vent's length/number of elbows needed.

  25. Step 25: Connect the vent to the exhaust hood.

  26. Step 26: Prepare the dryer for leveling legs.

  27. Step 27: Screw leveling legs into the dryer's leg holes.

  28. Step 28: Connect the vent to the exhaust outlet.

  29. Step 29: Move the dryer to its final location.

Detailed Guide

Remove the hold-down screw and the terminal block cover.

Now if you are installing the power supply cord strain relief, go on to steps 2 and
3.

If you are installing the direct wire strain relief, go on to steps 4 and
5. , Put two clamp section tabs into the hole below the terminal block opening with one tab pointing up and the other pointing down.

Secure the tabs with one hand and tighten the strain relief screws so the clamp sections are held together., It should lie horizontal, as shown, and fit snugly enough so as to stay in by itself--do not tighten the screws around the cord.

Now go on to step
6. , Put the threaded portion of the strain relief through the hole below the terminal block opening.

Screw the conduit connector onto the strain relief threads., It should lie horizontal, as shown, and fit snugly enough so as to stay in by itself.

Tighten the strain relief screw directly against the wire cable, as shown.

Now go on to step
6. , For the power supply cord you can use a 4-wire receptacle OR a 3-wire receptacle--follow steps 7-10 for the 4-wire receptacle OR follow steps 11-13 for the 3-wire receptacle For the direct wire you can use a 4-wire direct connection OR a 3-wire direct connection--follow steps 14-17 for the 4-wire direct connection OR follow steps 18-20 for the 3-wire direct connection.

IMPORTANT:
Mobile homes require a 4-wire connection and some local codes prohibit 3-wire connections, so make sure you are adhering to the standards for your situation before you make a decision. , Remove the central silver terminal block screw and take the neutral ground wire from the screw on the lower left, as shown., They should meet in the center of the terminal.

Replace and tighten the central screw over top of these wires., Replace and tighten the screw over top of the wire., Tighten the screws over top of these wires, then put back the terminal block cover (which you took out in step 1) and secure it with the hold-down screw.

Now go on to step 21, "Venting Requirements."

Remove the central silver terminal block screw., Replace and tighten the screw over top of the wire., Tighten the screws over top of these wires, then put back the terminal block cover (which you took out in step 1) and secure it with the hold-down screw.

Now go on to step 21, "Venting Requirements."

It should be at least five feet in length so you can move your dryer with relative ease.

Strip 5" of outer covering from the end of the cable, leaving bare ground wire in its place.

Cut 1½" each from the remaining three wires.

Shape the wires' ends into hooks, then remove the central silver terminal block screw and take the neutral ground wire from the screw on the lower left, as shown., They should meet in the center of the terminal, with the neutral wire's hook facing to the right.

Squeeze the wires together and replace and tighten the central screw over top of these wires., Replace and tighten the screw over top of the wire., Tighten the screws over top of these wires, then put back the terminal block cover (which you took out in step 1) and secure it with the hold-down screw.

Now go on to step 21, "Venting Requirements."

It should be at least five feet in length so you can move your dryer with relative ease.

Strip 3½" of outer covering from the end of the cable, leaving bare ground wire in its place.

Cut 1" each from the remaining three wires.

Shape the wires' ends into hooks, then remove the central silver terminal block screw., Squeeze the hooked ends together and replace and tighten the screw over top of the wire., Tighten the screws over top of these wires, then put back the terminal block cover (which you took out in step 1) and secure it with the hold-down screw.

Now go on to step 21, "Venting Requirements."

This step is more of a list of stipulations, but do not skip reading it--it outlines several potential hazards you want to avoid.

First of all, your vent must be heavy metal, not plastic or metal foil.

Select the route that follows the straightest/most direct path to the outdoors, with as few elbows/turns as possible.

Bent the vent carefully so as not to hinder its effectiveness.

Use clamps to seal all joints, and in terms of the vent's "elbows," a 45° angle is much more effective than 90°.

Exhaust vents in mobile homes must be securely fastened to a flame resistant portion of the home and the vent's ending should be outside the structure itself.

Remember, improper venting can cue moisture damage to woodwork, furniture, wallpaper, etc., so as you move on be sure to follow all instructions exactly. , Use caulk to seal the outside wall around the exhaust hood, to prevent leakage., Use the following chart: , The vent MUST fit inside the hood, secured with a 4" clamp.

Run the vent to the dryer location following the venting requirements above., Take a large, flat piece of cardboard (such as a piece from the carton your dryer came in) and gently lay the dryer down onto it., Use a wrench to turn these until the diamond marking on the middle of each leg is no longer visible., Make sure the dryer vent fits over the exhaust outlet, and secure the connection with a 4" clamp., Do not remove the cardboard yet, and take extra care not to damage the vent.

Once the dryer is in place, you can remove the cardboard and level the legs using a wrench.

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Patricia Torres

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