How to Install a Wood Fence Post
Try this method if you have dense soil., Choose a durable fence post., Prep the wood against moisture (optional)., Dig the hole., Drop gravel into the hole., Position the post in the hole., Fill the hole with tamped crushed stone or soil., Finish...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Try this method if you have dense soil.
You can install your posts directly into the soil as long as it's dense and has good drainage.
The installation is more labor-intensive and a bit less stable than concrete, but also cheaper and (often) more decay-resistant.
Due to additional strain, gate posts work better when installed in concrete. -
Step 2: Choose a durable fence post.
Follow local advice if possible, since climate and availability will affect this decision.
Unless you live in a desert, it pays to choose durable lumber, which comes in two varieties:
Posts made entirely from durable heartwood.
Western juniper, black locust, and Osage-orange are excellent choices.
Pacific yew, redwood, and most cedar and white oak species can last 20+ years in most conditions.Pressure-treated wood with about 1 inch (2.5cm) sapwood surrounding a core of heartwood.
Aspen, ponderosa pine, lodgepole pine, and Douglas fir are suitable examples.
Buy this from a trusted source to avoid poorly treated wood.
Note — All lumber should be labeled as suitable for ground contact.
Not all pressure-treated wood is intended for burial. , The sawn-off ends of the fence post are vulnerable to moisture.
Consider these precautions if you live in a damp climate:
Bevel the top of the fence post to a 45º angle to encourage rain runoff, or plan on installing a post cap.Treat the two ends with a non-water-based, brush-on wood preservative, such as copper naphthenate.
Wood preservatives are toxic, so follow safety recommendations on the label.Apply multiple coats of the copper naphthenate and make sure to let it dry for 24 hours after each application. , As a general rule, an 8 foot post needs to be placed so that two feet of it are in the ground.
If you plan to anchor the post in soil, the hole diameter should be as close to the fence post size as possible.
If you plan to anchor the post in gravel, dig a bit wider — roughly 8 inches (20cm) across for a standard 4x4 post.
Use a post hole digger to dig a straight-walled hole.
If the soil is hard, cut through the sod with a shovel and/or let water soak into the dirt.
Keep some dirt (or dirt mixed with gravel) nearby to backfill the hole. , A couple inches (few centimeters) of pea gravel or crushed stone improves soil drainage.
Tamp it down well.
This is especially important if your soil has poor drainage.
You can use a wooden stick or broken wood tool handle as a tamping bar, or a piece of scrap lumber. , Center the post in the hole, and get it level and in line with the other posts.
An assistant will be useful to hold this in place during installation.
However, if you are going to yourself have some 1"x 4"x 4' or longer material available.
Then, drive wooden stakes into the ground on two sides and attach them with screws to the 1"x 4" to brace for “plumbing" (vertical level).
Make sure that you measure the distance between your posts to ensure that the top and bottom rails will fit. , Crushed stone offers better drainage than soil, and may improve stability as well if well tamped and installed in dense soil.
Whether using crushed stone or ordinary soil, shovel it in 3–5 inches (7.5–12.5cm) at a time, tamping well after each batch.Repeat until the hole is filled.
Before each tamping, hold a level against the post and adjust until level.
If you'd like to plant grass at the base of the post, use soil for the last couple inches (several cm), not gravel. , Build up the soil at the base of the pole to make a small "hill" sloping away from the post in all directions.
The spot where the post leaves the ground is the most common location for rot.
Good drainage here is extremely important. -
Step 3: Prep the wood against moisture (optional).
-
Step 4: Dig the hole.
-
Step 5: Drop gravel into the hole.
-
Step 6: Position the post in the hole.
-
Step 7: Fill the hole with tamped crushed stone or soil.
-
Step 8: Finish with a small hillock.
Detailed Guide
You can install your posts directly into the soil as long as it's dense and has good drainage.
The installation is more labor-intensive and a bit less stable than concrete, but also cheaper and (often) more decay-resistant.
Due to additional strain, gate posts work better when installed in concrete.
Follow local advice if possible, since climate and availability will affect this decision.
Unless you live in a desert, it pays to choose durable lumber, which comes in two varieties:
Posts made entirely from durable heartwood.
Western juniper, black locust, and Osage-orange are excellent choices.
Pacific yew, redwood, and most cedar and white oak species can last 20+ years in most conditions.Pressure-treated wood with about 1 inch (2.5cm) sapwood surrounding a core of heartwood.
Aspen, ponderosa pine, lodgepole pine, and Douglas fir are suitable examples.
Buy this from a trusted source to avoid poorly treated wood.
Note — All lumber should be labeled as suitable for ground contact.
Not all pressure-treated wood is intended for burial. , The sawn-off ends of the fence post are vulnerable to moisture.
Consider these precautions if you live in a damp climate:
Bevel the top of the fence post to a 45º angle to encourage rain runoff, or plan on installing a post cap.Treat the two ends with a non-water-based, brush-on wood preservative, such as copper naphthenate.
Wood preservatives are toxic, so follow safety recommendations on the label.Apply multiple coats of the copper naphthenate and make sure to let it dry for 24 hours after each application. , As a general rule, an 8 foot post needs to be placed so that two feet of it are in the ground.
If you plan to anchor the post in soil, the hole diameter should be as close to the fence post size as possible.
If you plan to anchor the post in gravel, dig a bit wider — roughly 8 inches (20cm) across for a standard 4x4 post.
Use a post hole digger to dig a straight-walled hole.
If the soil is hard, cut through the sod with a shovel and/or let water soak into the dirt.
Keep some dirt (or dirt mixed with gravel) nearby to backfill the hole. , A couple inches (few centimeters) of pea gravel or crushed stone improves soil drainage.
Tamp it down well.
This is especially important if your soil has poor drainage.
You can use a wooden stick or broken wood tool handle as a tamping bar, or a piece of scrap lumber. , Center the post in the hole, and get it level and in line with the other posts.
An assistant will be useful to hold this in place during installation.
However, if you are going to yourself have some 1"x 4"x 4' or longer material available.
Then, drive wooden stakes into the ground on two sides and attach them with screws to the 1"x 4" to brace for “plumbing" (vertical level).
Make sure that you measure the distance between your posts to ensure that the top and bottom rails will fit. , Crushed stone offers better drainage than soil, and may improve stability as well if well tamped and installed in dense soil.
Whether using crushed stone or ordinary soil, shovel it in 3–5 inches (7.5–12.5cm) at a time, tamping well after each batch.Repeat until the hole is filled.
Before each tamping, hold a level against the post and adjust until level.
If you'd like to plant grass at the base of the post, use soil for the last couple inches (several cm), not gravel. , Build up the soil at the base of the pole to make a small "hill" sloping away from the post in all directions.
The spot where the post leaves the ground is the most common location for rot.
Good drainage here is extremely important.
About the Author
Beverly Powell
Brings years of experience writing about organization and related subjects.
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