How to Install Brake Calipers on Car Wheels

Step-by-Step Guide

1. 1

   Step 1: Park on a solid

   Concrete is best, as jacks and jack stands can sink into asphalt on hot summer days.
   
   This affects the stability of the vehicle and damages the asphalt surface.
   
   Work in a shady spot or direct sun? It will probably take a few hours to do both sides of one axle if it is the first time doing this work, so plan accordingly.
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   Step 2: level surface.

   Assume the driver side will be worked on first for this wiki. ,, Place one chock block ahead of the front tire and a second behind the rear tire to prevent the vehicle from rolling in either direction. , to allow access to the lug nuts. ,, Use the manufacturer's supplied jack or use a floor jack to raise the vehicle, and locate to lift only at the manufacturer's designated points on the vehicle. , Do not attempt to work on any vehicle supported only by a jack.
   
   If supporting the vehicle at the axle, do so closest to the wheels.
   
   Do not support or lift the axle solely at the the differential. ,,,, Note: these are made of soft metal and are easily damaged.
   
   Slip a length of snug fitting clear hose over the screw to direct fluid into a container on the ground. , Do this until the pads are no longer pressed firmly against the rotor.
   
   Expect brake fluid to be expelled from the bleeder screw as the piston is forced into the caliper. , Do not turn hose more than half a turn to avoid kinking the hose. (On some vehicles a banjo bolt secures the hose to the caliper, in which case the hose can be removed in this step, and step 16 may be omitted.) , On rear disk brakes, the parking brake is removed from the caliper and the procedure varies from vehicle to vehicle.
   
   It will not be possible to remove the rear caliper if the parking brake is engaged. ,,, The correct caliper will have the bleeder nut oriented at the top (or very close to the top) after being installed on the vehicle.
   
   Failure to install the correct caliper will trap air in the system.
   
   This will cause a "spongy" feeling brake pedal and possibly brake failure.
   
   Hold both calipers near the rotor, oriented as they would be installed on the vehicle and install only the caliper that has the bleeder nut at the top. , The bulk of this brake work is the caliper and pad removal and replacement.
   
   Not servicing the rotors while accessible now is practically "negligent".
   
   Consider removing the rotor for machining (called "turning" on a lathe) to remove glazing, gouges and grooves.
   
   Well traveled rotors are often glazed and result in extended stopping distances.
   
   If the rotor is too worn or has deep grooves or has significant rust; replacement may be required (often times replacing with new rotors for $25 or so is better than machining old rotors for $15).
   
   Actual cost of machining or replacement rotors is dependent on vehicle type, supply house pricing, etc., and is a matter of personal choice.
   
   Many full service auto supply shops offer rotor machining.
   
   It is illegal however, to machine rotors that are too thin or otherwise unsafe for re-installation on the vehicle. ,(this step is not needed, if c-clamp was used during caliper removal) ,,,, Slip clear hose over the screw to direct fluid into a container on the ground.
   
   Release the hose clamping pliers or vice grips. , Add additional fluid to maintain the level above minimum. , Tighten bleeder.
   
   Have helper pump brakes 3 times, and hold. release bleeder valve. to drain air and tighten.
   
   Repeat process until no air is found.Monitor the brake bleeder screw hose, and close the screw when a steady stream of fluid with no bubbles comes out.
   
   Remove the hose and container. ,, While pressing the wheel firmly and evenly against the rotor, spin the lug nuts onto the studs "snug tight".
   
   It is not required to have the lug nuts fully tight at this point.
   
   The next step will complete this process. , Fully tighten lug nuts to appropriate torque specifications with the tire in contact with the ground.
   
   Tighten lug nuts in a "star" pattern; do not tighten adjacent lug nuts in a circular "one after the other" pattern. , Remove any spilled fluid from painted surfaces quickly as the finish can be damaged if allowed to sit for even a short time. ,, Perform brake testing at low speeds away from people and buildings if at all possible.
   
   Gradually increase speed for testing. ,
3. 3

   Step 3: Determine which side to do first.

4. 4

   Step 4: Make sure parking brake is NOT engaged if working on the rear calipers.

5. 5

   Step 5: Chock the wheels on the passenger side of the vehicle.

6. 6

   Step 6: Remove wheel covers

7. 7

   Step 7: hub caps

8. 8

   Step 8: Loosen each lug nut no more than 1 full turn.

9. 9

   Step 9: Raise the vehicle.

10. 10

    Step 10: Use jack stands to support the vehicle.

11. 11

    Step 11: Check and reposition the chock blocks if needed

12. 12

    Step 12: to ensure there is no room for movement of the vehicle.

13. 13

    Step 13: Remove the lug nuts and place in hub cap.

14. 14

    Step 14: Remove wheel and tire assembly.

15. 15

    Step 15: Open the bleeder screw with a socket or the box end of a wrench.

16. 16

    Step 16: Compress the piston back into the caliper using a large c-clamp.

17. 17

    Step 17: Use a flare nut wrench to loosen the hose where it is connected to the caliper.

18. 18

    Step 18: Remove the caliper from the steering knuckle using wrenches or hex sockets as required.

19. 19

    Step 19: Turn the caliper to the left to unscrew it from the brake hose after the caliper is free from the steering knuckle.

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    Step 20: Retain the caliper in case you need to reuse any hardware or the bleeder screw.

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    Step 21: Select the correct caliper for the side of the vehicle being replaced.

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    Step 22: Inspect rotors.

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    Step 23: Fully compress the piston and install the new brake pads into the caliper.

24. 24

    Step 24: Attach the brake hose to the caliper making sure to use the new copper washers that came with the new caliper and fit the assembly over the rotor.

25. 25

    Step 25: Secure the caliper to the steering knuckle in reverse order of removal steps above.

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    Step 26: Finish tightening the hose to the caliper if not done already

27. 27

    Step 27: being careful not to over-tighten it.

28. 28

    Step 28: Install the bleeder screw loosely.

29. 29

    Step 29: Open the hood

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    Step 30: and monitor the fluid level in the brake reservoir.

31. 31

    Step 31: Have a helper compress the brake pedal and hold it to the floor.

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    Step 32: Pump the brake pedal with the engine off until a solid feel is obtained.

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    Step 33: Reinstall the wheel and tire.

34. 34

    Step 34: Lower the vehicle.

35. 35

    Step 35: Fill brake fluid reservoir to appropriate level

36. 36

    Step 36: reinstall the cover and close the hood.

37. 37

    Step 37: Repeat for passenger side of the vehicle if desired.

38. 38

    Step 38: Test drive.

39. 39

    Step 39: Tighten lug nuts and secure wheel cover

40. 40

    Step 40: hub cap

Detailed Guide

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