How to Install Metal Studs
Rent or purchase the right tools., Determine the number of steel studs needed., Chalk the lines where the track will be fastened to the floor using a chalk box., Screw the lower lengths of track to the floor., Plumb the top track., Once plumb is...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Rent or purchase the right tools.
Working with steel studs requires a few special tools.
You can typically get the best equipment for this at local construction rental stores.
You will need:
Metal cut-off saw Fasteners A hammer drill Screw gun Chalk box Level Laser level or plumb bobClamps -
Step 2: Determine the number of steel studs needed.
You should typically allow for 1 stud per every 12 inches (300Â mm) of linear wall space.
Purchase steel plates — also called tracks — for the bottom and top of the wall by measuring the linear feet of the wall and doubling it.
Add an additional stud for each side of a window or door. , Snap a chalk line across the perimeter of the floor to outline where your track will need to go. , Use the chalk line to position your lower track and screw the track in by first drilling a hole into the track and stud, and then fastening with a screw.
If you're drilling through concrete, try using the power nailer or hammer drill for an easier time.
Negotiate corners and long straight lines when laying track.
Overlap track corners by flattening the first track’s side flange so the overlapping track can slide right into place.
On longer, straight runs, overlap the adjoining tracks at least 6 inches and secure the overlap to the floor with a concrete screw. , To make sure that the upper and lower track are plumb, you can use either a laser level, a plumb bob, or two water levels:
To use a laser level, simply place it in the bottom middle of the track and turn it on to shine a vertical laser up to your wall.
This point will be your plumb point on the upper wall.
Most contractors recommend using a laser level for efficiency and ease of access.
Using a plumb bob is similar to using a laser level.
Attach the string to the top of the wall and let the bob come to a rest at the plumb line on the bottom of the floor.
If you have neither a laser level nor a plumb bob, you can try using two water levels pressed together.
Keeping both levels together, extend one to the ceiling and other to the floor, making sure that both levels are plumb.
Mark off your plump line on the floor or ceiling. , Use a drill and screw gun to the attach the track, pretty much just as you attached the ground track.
If your track runs perpendicular to the ceiling joists, fasten the track to the joists with self-tapping drywall screws.
If your track runs parallel to the ceiling joists, fasten the track to the joists with drywall anchors or secure it with grabber screws and glue., Use straight-cut aviation snips for this.
Bend one flange up, clear of the snips’ jaws, and cut across the stud’s web.
For easier electrical and plumbing installations later on, keep all the keyhole knockouts aligned by cutting all studs to length from the same end.
Protect your hands with heavy-duty gloves.
To cut multiple pieces at once, use a miter saw with a metal cutting blade.
Make cutting the studs with aviation snips easier by first scoring the studs with a utility knife on both sides and then bending the stud back and forth until it breaks apart. , Drive a 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) No. 8 pan-head screw in the middle where they meet.
This should be done at medium speed.
Choose a clutch setting strong enough to drive the screw home, but not so strong that it strips the screw hole and weakens the joint. , Cut each flange of the track (on both ends) 1 inch (2.5 cm) lengthwise.
Bend the web down 90 degrees using sheet metal locking pliers. , Pop a plastic bushing into each knockout in order to keep the cable from rubbing against the sharp edges. , If your steel stud wall seems flimsy, keep in mind that it gains full rigidity once drywall or sheathing is applied. , They should be spaced every 8 inches (20.3 cm) along edges (where two sheets meet on a stud) and 12 inches (30.5 cm) on centers located elsewhere.
Use screws with a fine thread instead of a coarse one.
Check your local codes.
They may require screws placed closer together, and you're better off having too many than having to add more after the inspector comes. , Your new metal studs won't rot, sag, or be susceptible to fire.
Learn how to hang drywall and finish the process. -
Step 3: Chalk the lines where the track will be fastened to the floor using a chalk box.
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Step 4: Screw the lower lengths of track to the floor.
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Step 5: Plumb the top track.
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Step 6: Once plumb is established
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Step 7: attach the track to the upper ceiling.
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Step 8: To trim to correct length
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Step 9: cut both side flanges of a steel stud.
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Step 10: Join studs to tracks by clamping the two members tightly with C-clamp locking pliers.
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Step 11: Fabricate metal headers by cutting the track 2 inches (5 cm) longer than the rough opening width.
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Step 12: Secure electrical cable along the center line of each stud with plastic ties screwed to the studs.
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Step 13: Add wood blocking as needed for doors
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Step 14: windows and cabinets.
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Step 15: Hang drywall or sheathing using 1-1/4 inch (3.1 cm)
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Step 16: self-tapping drywall screws.
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Step 17: Finished.
Detailed Guide
Working with steel studs requires a few special tools.
You can typically get the best equipment for this at local construction rental stores.
You will need:
Metal cut-off saw Fasteners A hammer drill Screw gun Chalk box Level Laser level or plumb bobClamps
You should typically allow for 1 stud per every 12 inches (300Â mm) of linear wall space.
Purchase steel plates — also called tracks — for the bottom and top of the wall by measuring the linear feet of the wall and doubling it.
Add an additional stud for each side of a window or door. , Snap a chalk line across the perimeter of the floor to outline where your track will need to go. , Use the chalk line to position your lower track and screw the track in by first drilling a hole into the track and stud, and then fastening with a screw.
If you're drilling through concrete, try using the power nailer or hammer drill for an easier time.
Negotiate corners and long straight lines when laying track.
Overlap track corners by flattening the first track’s side flange so the overlapping track can slide right into place.
On longer, straight runs, overlap the adjoining tracks at least 6 inches and secure the overlap to the floor with a concrete screw. , To make sure that the upper and lower track are plumb, you can use either a laser level, a plumb bob, or two water levels:
To use a laser level, simply place it in the bottom middle of the track and turn it on to shine a vertical laser up to your wall.
This point will be your plumb point on the upper wall.
Most contractors recommend using a laser level for efficiency and ease of access.
Using a plumb bob is similar to using a laser level.
Attach the string to the top of the wall and let the bob come to a rest at the plumb line on the bottom of the floor.
If you have neither a laser level nor a plumb bob, you can try using two water levels pressed together.
Keeping both levels together, extend one to the ceiling and other to the floor, making sure that both levels are plumb.
Mark off your plump line on the floor or ceiling. , Use a drill and screw gun to the attach the track, pretty much just as you attached the ground track.
If your track runs perpendicular to the ceiling joists, fasten the track to the joists with self-tapping drywall screws.
If your track runs parallel to the ceiling joists, fasten the track to the joists with drywall anchors or secure it with grabber screws and glue., Use straight-cut aviation snips for this.
Bend one flange up, clear of the snips’ jaws, and cut across the stud’s web.
For easier electrical and plumbing installations later on, keep all the keyhole knockouts aligned by cutting all studs to length from the same end.
Protect your hands with heavy-duty gloves.
To cut multiple pieces at once, use a miter saw with a metal cutting blade.
Make cutting the studs with aviation snips easier by first scoring the studs with a utility knife on both sides and then bending the stud back and forth until it breaks apart. , Drive a 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) No. 8 pan-head screw in the middle where they meet.
This should be done at medium speed.
Choose a clutch setting strong enough to drive the screw home, but not so strong that it strips the screw hole and weakens the joint. , Cut each flange of the track (on both ends) 1 inch (2.5 cm) lengthwise.
Bend the web down 90 degrees using sheet metal locking pliers. , Pop a plastic bushing into each knockout in order to keep the cable from rubbing against the sharp edges. , If your steel stud wall seems flimsy, keep in mind that it gains full rigidity once drywall or sheathing is applied. , They should be spaced every 8 inches (20.3 cm) along edges (where two sheets meet on a stud) and 12 inches (30.5 cm) on centers located elsewhere.
Use screws with a fine thread instead of a coarse one.
Check your local codes.
They may require screws placed closer together, and you're better off having too many than having to add more after the inspector comes. , Your new metal studs won't rot, sag, or be susceptible to fire.
Learn how to hang drywall and finish the process.
About the Author
Christine Ward
Professional writer focused on creating easy-to-follow pet care tutorials.
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