How to Insulate a Floor on a Slab
Purchase the necessary materials and tools. , Disassemble the existing flooring., Prepare the slab., Prime the slab surface with a primer based, deep penetrating PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue., Assure the slab is perfectly level., Install the vapor...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Purchase the necessary materials and tools.
Remove the laminate, linoleum or wood finished floor.
Remove the subfloor. , Remove all of the adhesive and old material until you reach the concrete base.
Once clear of all material, grind the slab as needed to provide a solid surface to bond to., The purpose of the PVA glue is to consolidate the porous slab surface so that good bonding with the leveler/screed will occur.
Put the glue in the paint tray and apply with the foam roller using the telescopic rod.
Let the floor dry thoroughly for three or four days. , Check the level of of the slab for any differences and, if necessary, apply self-leveling floor screed.
Mix the screed according to the package directions: in a bucket by hand or in a bucket using a mixing blade attached to a powerful drill or in a commercial cement mixer.
Keep working until the mixture achieves a uniform consistency.
Immediately the pour mixture onto the floor and, using a board or float, distribute the mixture evenly over the surface.
Roll with a special purpose screed roller with spikes.
Let the floor dry completely. , Put down a polyethylene film with a thickness of 100 microns over the whole floor.
Overlap the joints at least 10 cm (4"). , Use solid polypropylene insulating panels.
The installation is simplified by an interlocking design from the factory consisting of docking slots.
The panels are easy to adjust to any room, because they are easily cut to size or trimmed using an ordinary utility knife.
Don't forget to glue the edges of with Liquid Nails or a similar adhesive. , It is best to use OSB or fiberboard with tongue and groove joints and leave a gap of
0.5 cm (1/8") between pieces and along the walls to allow for expansion.
You can use purchased plastic wedges as spacers.
Tap the sheets with a hammer to fit the tongue into the groove, making sure to protect the edge of the sheets with a wooden block.
To secure the subfloor, use screws and anchors at 35 centimeter (13.8 in) spacings (14" centers). , Remove the plastic wedges.
Apply wood putty (dispensed from a tube with the caulk gun) to all joints and screw heads, smoothing it with a putty spatula as you go.
Let the putty dry and start laying a linoleum or laminate or parquet floor. -
Step 2: Disassemble the existing flooring.
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Step 3: Prepare the slab.
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Step 4: Prime the slab surface with a primer based
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Step 5: deep penetrating PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue.
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Step 6: Assure the slab is perfectly level.
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Step 7: Install the vapor barrier.
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Step 8: Install the thermal insulation.
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Step 9: Install the subfloor.
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Step 10: Finish the subflooring
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Step 11: making sure everything is sealed and smooth.
Detailed Guide
Remove the laminate, linoleum or wood finished floor.
Remove the subfloor. , Remove all of the adhesive and old material until you reach the concrete base.
Once clear of all material, grind the slab as needed to provide a solid surface to bond to., The purpose of the PVA glue is to consolidate the porous slab surface so that good bonding with the leveler/screed will occur.
Put the glue in the paint tray and apply with the foam roller using the telescopic rod.
Let the floor dry thoroughly for three or four days. , Check the level of of the slab for any differences and, if necessary, apply self-leveling floor screed.
Mix the screed according to the package directions: in a bucket by hand or in a bucket using a mixing blade attached to a powerful drill or in a commercial cement mixer.
Keep working until the mixture achieves a uniform consistency.
Immediately the pour mixture onto the floor and, using a board or float, distribute the mixture evenly over the surface.
Roll with a special purpose screed roller with spikes.
Let the floor dry completely. , Put down a polyethylene film with a thickness of 100 microns over the whole floor.
Overlap the joints at least 10 cm (4"). , Use solid polypropylene insulating panels.
The installation is simplified by an interlocking design from the factory consisting of docking slots.
The panels are easy to adjust to any room, because they are easily cut to size or trimmed using an ordinary utility knife.
Don't forget to glue the edges of with Liquid Nails or a similar adhesive. , It is best to use OSB or fiberboard with tongue and groove joints and leave a gap of
0.5 cm (1/8") between pieces and along the walls to allow for expansion.
You can use purchased plastic wedges as spacers.
Tap the sheets with a hammer to fit the tongue into the groove, making sure to protect the edge of the sheets with a wooden block.
To secure the subfloor, use screws and anchors at 35 centimeter (13.8 in) spacings (14" centers). , Remove the plastic wedges.
Apply wood putty (dispensed from a tube with the caulk gun) to all joints and screw heads, smoothing it with a putty spatula as you go.
Let the putty dry and start laying a linoleum or laminate or parquet floor.
About the Author
Jack Jones
Professional writer focused on creating easy-to-follow cooking tutorials.
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