How to Repair Dodgy or Broken Headphones
Listen while bending the cable., Try pushing the plug., Borrow a friend's earpiece., Set up a multimeter., Test with the multimeter., Test the cable., Strip off insulation., Cut the cord., Slide on a shrink tube., Splice the wires., Solder the...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Listen while bending the cable.
Bend the cable while you listen.
If you can hear some audio through your headphones, move on to Fixing the cable, below. -
Step 2: Try pushing the plug.
If you can only hear audio when you push the plug end of the headphones, skip down to Fixing a Broken Plug. , If you can't hear anything, unplug your cables from the earpiece.
Plug them into a different earpiece.
If you can hear sound now, go to Fixing the Earpiece.
If you cables don't unplug from the earpiece, continue to the next step, Set up a multimeter. , If you haven't found the problem yet, use a multimeter.
You can find one at a hardware store.
You'll need a sharp knife as well, so children should ask an adult for help.
Set up the multimeter as follows:
Set the multimeter to test continuity, marked by ))) or a similar symbol.
Plug the black lead into the hole marked COM.
Plug the red lead into the hole marked with an Ω, mA, or ))). , The multimeter will beep if there are no breaks in the wire.
Use a sharp knife to cut the insulation from the wire, following the instructions below.
Be careful not to cut the wire inside.
Make a slit next to the plug, and one next to the earpiece.
The bare copper wire usually has a clear protective coat.
Gently scrape it away with a knife.Touch the wire in one slit with the black multimeter lead.
Touch the other slit with the red lead.
If it beeps, the problem is in the plug or earpiece.
If it does not beep, make a slit halfway along the cable and test each half of the cable.
Make another cut in the half that does not beep.
Repeat until you've found two points a few inches (several cm) apart that do not cause the multimeter to beep.
Continue on to Fixing the Cable, skipping the test step. , Wear the headphones and turn on audio.
Bend the cable 90 degrees across the top of your thumb and run it along the length of the cable.
When the sound crackles or cuts in and out, you have found the problem.If the problem is near the plug, see Fixing the Plug for repair instructions.
Otherwise, continue to the next step.
When you know that you've found the site of the break, mark it with a piece of electrical tape.
If you already found the problem with a multimeter, skip this step. , Use wire strippers, or carefully run a knife around the outside of the cable.
Remove ½ inch (1.25 cm) of the outer shielding.
Extend the cut in either direction until you see a broken wire.
This is the area you'll need to repair.
If your cable looks like two cables glued together, each one will contain an insulated wire (the signal) and a bare wire (the ground).
Apple headphones and other headphones with single cables have two insulated wires (the left and right signal) and a single bare ground wire. , Cut the cord in half.
If the wire inside is shredded, cut on either side of it to remove the problem.
If you do this, remove the same amount from the left and right cords.
Uneven lengths of cord can cause electrical damage to your headphones.If only one of your wires is broken, you might want to skip to soldering the wire, without cutting or splicing.This will save time, but the repair will be less sturdy. , This is a rubber tubing that looks just like the rest of your headphone cable.
Slide it onto the cable for later.
After your repair, you'll slide this back over the open area to protect it.
If you had to cut the wire several times to find the problem, slip on a tube over each cut. , This means you'll be joining the wires together.
Make sure to connect wires with the same color insulation (or no insulation).
You have two options: a pigtail splice and an in-line splice.For a pigtail splice, hold the two exposed sections of wire that you want to join parallel to each other, then twist them together to create a join.
This is quick and easy, but the repair will be bulkier.
For an in-line splice, hold the wires so that they overlap end to end.
Twist the wires in opposite directions.
This is more difficult but the repair is easier to hide. , Use a soldering iron to melt a small dab of solder over the wires.
Repeat for each splice.
Let cool.
Bare wires without insulation usually have a thin coat of protection.
Sand this off or burn it off with the soldering iron before you solder.
Avoid breathing in the fumes.Once cooled, wrap the two pairs of joins in electrical tape to ensure the red and white ends are kept separate from the ground wire. , Warm with a heat gun to shrink it.
Aren't you glad you slid it over before your soldered? The tube should shrink down to a quarter of its original size, fitting snugly to protect and strengthen your newly repaired section of cable. , You can find these for cheap online or at an electronics store.
Select a metal plug with stereo connection and a spring.
Make sure it's the same size as your old plug, typically
3.5mm., Some plugs can be unscrewed from the cable.
If your plug is molded on to the plastic, you'll need to cut it off instead, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the plug.
If your plug unscrews, look at the wires.
If they all seem connected and unbroken, cut the cable off anyway.
The problem is probably in the cable right next to the plug. , There will normally be one "loose" wire (unshielded) and two insulated, or shielded, wires.
The bare one will be the earth or ground wire, the others are left signal and right signal.
Side-by-side cables have an additional bare wire, but are otherwise the same as single cables. , Unscrew the new plug.
Slip the cover and spring over the end of the cable.
Slip on a piece of shrink tubing as well.
The plug base should have two pins sticking out of the end.
If it only has one, then you have got a mono, not stereo, plug. , Separate each of the three wires in your cable.
Twist any frayed ends together so each wire has a thin tip.
Tie these firmly to the jack plug as follows:
Bare copper wire connects to the sleeve probe, the longest piece of metal.
If there is no bare wire, connect the wire with striped insulation.
The remaining two (insulated) wires connect to the other two pins (the tip and ring probes).
There's no universal color code for these.
If you connect them the wrong way round, the left and right audio will be switched.
The headphones will otherwise work fine. , Use a small clip or vise to keep them firmly in place.
None of the three wires should touch the other two. , Use sandpaper to roughen the edges to make it easier to solder to metal.
Apply solder to a pin.
Heat the pin to melt the solder.
Repeat for the other two wires. , Screw on the cap over the spring and plug.
Test your headphones again.
If you still have problems, most likely the wires are touching.
Unscrew the cap and tug the wires apart. , This process is different for each model.
Look online for specific directions, or try the following:
Look for screws on the earpiece.
You may need a size 0 crosshead screwdriver.
Tug the padding gently.
If it comes off, look for screws underneath it.
Insert a spudger or other flat tool into the crack at the base of the earpiece dome.
Lever it apart.
This may cause damage to some models, so finding directions first is recommended.
Earbuds can be tugged apart, but you may need a new rubber seal afterward.The problem is usually in the cable for earbuds. , If you're lucky, the problem will be obvious.
Any wires loose inside the earpiece need to be reattached to the headphone driver.
Look for small metal pins, hopefully with other wires attached to some of them.
Solder the wire back into position over the bare pin.
If more than one wire is loose, you may need to find a manual to see which wire goes where.
Make sure none of the wires touch each other. , You can buy a new headphone driver online, but this may be quite expensive.
If you decide replacement is worth the cost, take your headphones and new driver to a repair shop.
You can try it yourself, but there's a high risk of damage:
Cut the rubber seal around the central cone with a sharp knife.
Remove the conical driver.
Place the new driver back in the same slot.
Be very careful not to touch the thin diaphragm.
If it doesn't feel secure, use a small amount of glue around the edge. -
Step 3: Borrow a friend's earpiece.
-
Step 4: Set up a multimeter.
-
Step 5: Test with the multimeter.
-
Step 6: Test the cable.
-
Step 7: Strip off insulation.
-
Step 8: Cut the cord.
-
Step 9: Slide on a shrink tube.
-
Step 10: Splice the wires.
-
Step 11: Solder the connections.
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Step 12: Slide your shrink tube over the repair.
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Step 13: Purchase a new jack plug.
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Step 14: Remove the old plug.
-
Step 15: Strip the wire with wire strippers.
-
Step 16: Fit the plug parts over the cable.
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Step 17: Connect the wires to the probes.
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Step 18: Clamp the wires onto the pins.
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Step 19: Solder the wires to the plug.
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Step 20: Reassemble the cap.
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Step 21: Take apart the earpieces.
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Step 22: Look for loose wires.
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Step 23: Replace the driver.
Detailed Guide
Bend the cable while you listen.
If you can hear some audio through your headphones, move on to Fixing the cable, below.
If you can only hear audio when you push the plug end of the headphones, skip down to Fixing a Broken Plug. , If you can't hear anything, unplug your cables from the earpiece.
Plug them into a different earpiece.
If you can hear sound now, go to Fixing the Earpiece.
If you cables don't unplug from the earpiece, continue to the next step, Set up a multimeter. , If you haven't found the problem yet, use a multimeter.
You can find one at a hardware store.
You'll need a sharp knife as well, so children should ask an adult for help.
Set up the multimeter as follows:
Set the multimeter to test continuity, marked by ))) or a similar symbol.
Plug the black lead into the hole marked COM.
Plug the red lead into the hole marked with an Ω, mA, or ))). , The multimeter will beep if there are no breaks in the wire.
Use a sharp knife to cut the insulation from the wire, following the instructions below.
Be careful not to cut the wire inside.
Make a slit next to the plug, and one next to the earpiece.
The bare copper wire usually has a clear protective coat.
Gently scrape it away with a knife.Touch the wire in one slit with the black multimeter lead.
Touch the other slit with the red lead.
If it beeps, the problem is in the plug or earpiece.
If it does not beep, make a slit halfway along the cable and test each half of the cable.
Make another cut in the half that does not beep.
Repeat until you've found two points a few inches (several cm) apart that do not cause the multimeter to beep.
Continue on to Fixing the Cable, skipping the test step. , Wear the headphones and turn on audio.
Bend the cable 90 degrees across the top of your thumb and run it along the length of the cable.
When the sound crackles or cuts in and out, you have found the problem.If the problem is near the plug, see Fixing the Plug for repair instructions.
Otherwise, continue to the next step.
When you know that you've found the site of the break, mark it with a piece of electrical tape.
If you already found the problem with a multimeter, skip this step. , Use wire strippers, or carefully run a knife around the outside of the cable.
Remove ½ inch (1.25 cm) of the outer shielding.
Extend the cut in either direction until you see a broken wire.
This is the area you'll need to repair.
If your cable looks like two cables glued together, each one will contain an insulated wire (the signal) and a bare wire (the ground).
Apple headphones and other headphones with single cables have two insulated wires (the left and right signal) and a single bare ground wire. , Cut the cord in half.
If the wire inside is shredded, cut on either side of it to remove the problem.
If you do this, remove the same amount from the left and right cords.
Uneven lengths of cord can cause electrical damage to your headphones.If only one of your wires is broken, you might want to skip to soldering the wire, without cutting or splicing.This will save time, but the repair will be less sturdy. , This is a rubber tubing that looks just like the rest of your headphone cable.
Slide it onto the cable for later.
After your repair, you'll slide this back over the open area to protect it.
If you had to cut the wire several times to find the problem, slip on a tube over each cut. , This means you'll be joining the wires together.
Make sure to connect wires with the same color insulation (or no insulation).
You have two options: a pigtail splice and an in-line splice.For a pigtail splice, hold the two exposed sections of wire that you want to join parallel to each other, then twist them together to create a join.
This is quick and easy, but the repair will be bulkier.
For an in-line splice, hold the wires so that they overlap end to end.
Twist the wires in opposite directions.
This is more difficult but the repair is easier to hide. , Use a soldering iron to melt a small dab of solder over the wires.
Repeat for each splice.
Let cool.
Bare wires without insulation usually have a thin coat of protection.
Sand this off or burn it off with the soldering iron before you solder.
Avoid breathing in the fumes.Once cooled, wrap the two pairs of joins in electrical tape to ensure the red and white ends are kept separate from the ground wire. , Warm with a heat gun to shrink it.
Aren't you glad you slid it over before your soldered? The tube should shrink down to a quarter of its original size, fitting snugly to protect and strengthen your newly repaired section of cable. , You can find these for cheap online or at an electronics store.
Select a metal plug with stereo connection and a spring.
Make sure it's the same size as your old plug, typically
3.5mm., Some plugs can be unscrewed from the cable.
If your plug is molded on to the plastic, you'll need to cut it off instead, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the plug.
If your plug unscrews, look at the wires.
If they all seem connected and unbroken, cut the cable off anyway.
The problem is probably in the cable right next to the plug. , There will normally be one "loose" wire (unshielded) and two insulated, or shielded, wires.
The bare one will be the earth or ground wire, the others are left signal and right signal.
Side-by-side cables have an additional bare wire, but are otherwise the same as single cables. , Unscrew the new plug.
Slip the cover and spring over the end of the cable.
Slip on a piece of shrink tubing as well.
The plug base should have two pins sticking out of the end.
If it only has one, then you have got a mono, not stereo, plug. , Separate each of the three wires in your cable.
Twist any frayed ends together so each wire has a thin tip.
Tie these firmly to the jack plug as follows:
Bare copper wire connects to the sleeve probe, the longest piece of metal.
If there is no bare wire, connect the wire with striped insulation.
The remaining two (insulated) wires connect to the other two pins (the tip and ring probes).
There's no universal color code for these.
If you connect them the wrong way round, the left and right audio will be switched.
The headphones will otherwise work fine. , Use a small clip or vise to keep them firmly in place.
None of the three wires should touch the other two. , Use sandpaper to roughen the edges to make it easier to solder to metal.
Apply solder to a pin.
Heat the pin to melt the solder.
Repeat for the other two wires. , Screw on the cap over the spring and plug.
Test your headphones again.
If you still have problems, most likely the wires are touching.
Unscrew the cap and tug the wires apart. , This process is different for each model.
Look online for specific directions, or try the following:
Look for screws on the earpiece.
You may need a size 0 crosshead screwdriver.
Tug the padding gently.
If it comes off, look for screws underneath it.
Insert a spudger or other flat tool into the crack at the base of the earpiece dome.
Lever it apart.
This may cause damage to some models, so finding directions first is recommended.
Earbuds can be tugged apart, but you may need a new rubber seal afterward.The problem is usually in the cable for earbuds. , If you're lucky, the problem will be obvious.
Any wires loose inside the earpiece need to be reattached to the headphone driver.
Look for small metal pins, hopefully with other wires attached to some of them.
Solder the wire back into position over the bare pin.
If more than one wire is loose, you may need to find a manual to see which wire goes where.
Make sure none of the wires touch each other. , You can buy a new headphone driver online, but this may be quite expensive.
If you decide replacement is worth the cost, take your headphones and new driver to a repair shop.
You can try it yourself, but there's a high risk of damage:
Cut the rubber seal around the central cone with a sharp knife.
Remove the conical driver.
Place the new driver back in the same slot.
Be very careful not to touch the thin diaphragm.
If it doesn't feel secure, use a small amount of glue around the edge.
About the Author
Jacqueline Barnes
A passionate writer with expertise in organization topics. Loves sharing practical knowledge.
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