How to Repair Holes in Drywall

Get a ready-made drywall patch., Clean up the edges of the hole., Cut or shape the patch carefully to fit the hole., Clean and dry the repair area to allow maximum adhesion., Apply the patch to the wall and smooth the taped edges with your putty...

12 Steps 3 min read Medium

Step-by-Step Guide

  1. Step 1: Get a ready-made drywall patch.

    These are available at big-box home centers and hardware stores.

    They use a peel-and-stick, metal-backed patch for added strength.

    If the hole was caused by a door knob or another object hitting the wall, a patch may hide the hole but it is not strong enough to hold up to another impact.

    Patching with a new piece of drywall will be a better solution.
  2. Step 2: Clean up the edges of the hole.

    Trim away frayed edges with a utility knife and press back into place any small chunks still hanging by a flap. , Make sure to leave extra backing all around the patch to attach to the drywall surrounding the hole. , To clean greasy areas (as in a kitchen), use trisodium phosphate ("TSP"), which can be found at most paint centers.

    Warm, soapy water can do the job, too, but don't let the drywall get too wet. , This will remove air bubbles. , The aim is to create a smooth transition between the patch backing and the surrounding wall.

    Because the patch backing lies on top of the existing drywall, there can be an unattractive layered look to your work if you don't do something to disguise it.

    Therefore you must learn to apply compound around the patch in such a way that the patch backing is "feathered" gradually into the rest of the wall.

    With practice, you'll learn the technique of making this transition smoothly.

    It will often require more than one coat of mud.

    Example:
    If repairing a 2- to 3-inch (5- to
    7.5-cm) hole, you will want to use a 10-inch (24 cm) putty knife to apply a skim coat of joint compound as a final topcoat.

    Remember to "screed" (gently scrape) the mud in one smooth, final stroke. , Wider putty knives will produce smoother results. , Pull the blade toward you in one steady, smooth motion, letting the knife make a 30-degree angle with the wall.

    If your finish doesn't look smooth, simply wipe off the blade, wet it and scrape the wall again.

    Make the mud as smooth as you can, but don't worry if it's not perfect.

    You will be able to sand the compound later when it's dry (although this can create a bit of a mess, so it's best to leave it as smooth as possible before it dries). ,, (Regular sandpaper will work, just not as well.) If there are large blobs or strips, shave these off with the putty knife first.

    You want to create as little dust as possible. , Apply this topcoat over pin holes or hairline cracks as if you were trying to scrape it all off with your knife without leaving any behind.

    With experience, this step can often be accomplished without additional sanding.
  3. Step 3: Cut or shape the patch carefully to fit the hole.

  4. Step 4: Clean and dry the repair area to allow maximum adhesion.

  5. Step 5: Apply the patch to the wall and smooth the taped edges with your putty knife.

  6. Step 6: Use a wide-blade putty knife to spread a thin topcoat of joint compound (sometimes called "mud") over the area surrounding the repair.

  7. Step 7: Apply a liberal amount of non-shrink joint compound with a putty knife.

  8. Step 8: Smooth the compound with the putty knife.

  9. Step 9: Let the patched area dry thoroughly before applying additional coats or sanding.

  10. Step 10: Once the compound is dry

  11. Step 11: lightly sand the area smooth using drywall sandpaper attached to a drywall sander.

  12. Step 12: Hide minor imperfections with an ultra-thin topcoat of joint compound.

Detailed Guide

These are available at big-box home centers and hardware stores.

They use a peel-and-stick, metal-backed patch for added strength.

If the hole was caused by a door knob or another object hitting the wall, a patch may hide the hole but it is not strong enough to hold up to another impact.

Patching with a new piece of drywall will be a better solution.

Trim away frayed edges with a utility knife and press back into place any small chunks still hanging by a flap. , Make sure to leave extra backing all around the patch to attach to the drywall surrounding the hole. , To clean greasy areas (as in a kitchen), use trisodium phosphate ("TSP"), which can be found at most paint centers.

Warm, soapy water can do the job, too, but don't let the drywall get too wet. , This will remove air bubbles. , The aim is to create a smooth transition between the patch backing and the surrounding wall.

Because the patch backing lies on top of the existing drywall, there can be an unattractive layered look to your work if you don't do something to disguise it.

Therefore you must learn to apply compound around the patch in such a way that the patch backing is "feathered" gradually into the rest of the wall.

With practice, you'll learn the technique of making this transition smoothly.

It will often require more than one coat of mud.

Example:
If repairing a 2- to 3-inch (5- to
7.5-cm) hole, you will want to use a 10-inch (24 cm) putty knife to apply a skim coat of joint compound as a final topcoat.

Remember to "screed" (gently scrape) the mud in one smooth, final stroke. , Wider putty knives will produce smoother results. , Pull the blade toward you in one steady, smooth motion, letting the knife make a 30-degree angle with the wall.

If your finish doesn't look smooth, simply wipe off the blade, wet it and scrape the wall again.

Make the mud as smooth as you can, but don't worry if it's not perfect.

You will be able to sand the compound later when it's dry (although this can create a bit of a mess, so it's best to leave it as smooth as possible before it dries). ,, (Regular sandpaper will work, just not as well.) If there are large blobs or strips, shave these off with the putty knife first.

You want to create as little dust as possible. , Apply this topcoat over pin holes or hairline cracks as if you were trying to scrape it all off with your knife without leaving any behind.

With experience, this step can often be accomplished without additional sanding.

About the Author

D

Deborah Ferguson

Specializes in breaking down complex creative arts topics into simple steps.

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