How to Repair Your Halogen Lamp
Please read all steps, tips and warnings completely before attempting., Identify the reason that a lamp (lighting fixture) won't function., Determine value of the fixture or cost of replacement., Use extreme care to prevent burns., Test the bulb(s)...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Please read all steps
The most common are:
Bulb burned out.
Bulb socket oxidized, burned, corroded, or otherwise broken so as to prevent proper electrical connection with the bulb contacts.
Transformer has overheated and a winding has "shorted" out or "opened" up.
The control (on / off or dimmer switch) if present, has failed.
The cord cap (plug), cord set (that which brings voltage from the wall receptacle to the fixture), or wiring between the control and the transformer or transformer to lamp socket has open, or shorted.
Look for wire and insulation that is discolored, burned off, broken, etc. , The time and / or cost of the repairs may not warrant repair.
Warnings below should also be reviewed before attempting. , Allow plenty of time for a lamp to cool before troubleshooting.
The lamps, while hot, can cause significant burns.
The lamp operating temperature can be about 1,000 °F (538 °C). , Never handle the glass of the lamp with bare hands.
Use a cloth or wear gloves when handling the bulb to avoid contact with skin.
The oils from the skin that would be left on the lamp will result in early lamp failure.
If unable to test by swapping, assume the lamp is good. , Shutting it off with a wall switch is NOT considered "disconnected". , Examine the socket or holder electrical contacts.
If they appear burned, discolored, oxidized, etc., gently scrape the contacts slightly until shiny metal becomes visible. , Inspect the socket or holder contacts where they touch the lamp.
If they appear loose, you can try to tighten them by squeezing them together (gently) with needle nose pliers (after removing the lamp).
Check that any area of the contact previously cleaned of discoloration, etc., is aligned with the points of contact to the lamp. , With a good bulb in the fixture, plug it in to power to see if functions. , Unplug (or otherwise disconnect) the fixture from the power source.
Shutting it off with a wall switch is NOT considered "disconnected".
Accessing the wiring compartment depends on the fixture.
Some require a plate, screws, or other protective barrier to be removed.
Sometimes it may be a simple piece of cardboard glued to the bottom of the fixture base.
Try to remove it causing a minimal amount of damage, as it will be needed to be reinstalled when done.
Under the base cover (cardboard) you will find one or more of the following: transformer, power cord and the control switch (unless you are working with a pole lamp Torchiere type where the on/off/dimmer switch is in the pole). , Splice, solder or wire-nut together to make repairs.
Test as outlined previously above. , At this point if you haven't found the problem, additional tests Use-a-Multimeter will be needed.
If this term (multimeter) is not familiar to you, and you don't have a clue as to how to measure voltage and continuity, it may be best to turn the work over to a repair shop (if the fixture is important to you). ,,,, -
Step 2: tips and warnings completely before attempting.
-
Step 3: Identify the reason that a lamp (lighting fixture) won't function.
-
Step 4: Determine value of the fixture or cost of replacement.
-
Step 5: Use extreme care to prevent burns.
-
Step 6: Test the bulb(s) in known a working lamp to determine if they are "good".
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Step 7: Unplug (or otherwise disconnect) the fixture from the power source.
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Step 8: Remove the lamp (if not already out) from the socket or holder.
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Step 9: Install the lamp.
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Step 10: Test the recent adjustments / cleaning.
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Step 11: Remove the base of the fixture or other area to access the wiring compartment or switch.
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Step 12: Inspect for burned
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Step 13: broken
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Step 14: or loose wires.
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Step 15: Use a Multimeter or VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) for additional testing if the fixture still does not function.
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Step 16: If you can use a VOM and have one
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Step 17: then (with the fixture plugged in) measure the transformer output usually 12volts
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Step 18: if nothing there
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Step 19: then measure the transformer input 120 volts
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Step 20: if you have the 120 volts
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Step 21: then the transformer is bad most likely.
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Step 22: You must take the on/off switch into consideration and with POWER OFF test it for continuity.
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Step 23: If no 120 at the transformer input
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Step 24: then your power cord or plug is the cause and you have to examine it and test it for continuity (unplugged of course)
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Step 25: You can purchase transformers
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Step 26: and bulb sockets from your local electrical supply store
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Step 27: maybe even Radio Shack
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Step 28: or you can search the web and there are many places that handle these parts.
Detailed Guide
The most common are:
Bulb burned out.
Bulb socket oxidized, burned, corroded, or otherwise broken so as to prevent proper electrical connection with the bulb contacts.
Transformer has overheated and a winding has "shorted" out or "opened" up.
The control (on / off or dimmer switch) if present, has failed.
The cord cap (plug), cord set (that which brings voltage from the wall receptacle to the fixture), or wiring between the control and the transformer or transformer to lamp socket has open, or shorted.
Look for wire and insulation that is discolored, burned off, broken, etc. , The time and / or cost of the repairs may not warrant repair.
Warnings below should also be reviewed before attempting. , Allow plenty of time for a lamp to cool before troubleshooting.
The lamps, while hot, can cause significant burns.
The lamp operating temperature can be about 1,000 °F (538 °C). , Never handle the glass of the lamp with bare hands.
Use a cloth or wear gloves when handling the bulb to avoid contact with skin.
The oils from the skin that would be left on the lamp will result in early lamp failure.
If unable to test by swapping, assume the lamp is good. , Shutting it off with a wall switch is NOT considered "disconnected". , Examine the socket or holder electrical contacts.
If they appear burned, discolored, oxidized, etc., gently scrape the contacts slightly until shiny metal becomes visible. , Inspect the socket or holder contacts where they touch the lamp.
If they appear loose, you can try to tighten them by squeezing them together (gently) with needle nose pliers (after removing the lamp).
Check that any area of the contact previously cleaned of discoloration, etc., is aligned with the points of contact to the lamp. , With a good bulb in the fixture, plug it in to power to see if functions. , Unplug (or otherwise disconnect) the fixture from the power source.
Shutting it off with a wall switch is NOT considered "disconnected".
Accessing the wiring compartment depends on the fixture.
Some require a plate, screws, or other protective barrier to be removed.
Sometimes it may be a simple piece of cardboard glued to the bottom of the fixture base.
Try to remove it causing a minimal amount of damage, as it will be needed to be reinstalled when done.
Under the base cover (cardboard) you will find one or more of the following: transformer, power cord and the control switch (unless you are working with a pole lamp Torchiere type where the on/off/dimmer switch is in the pole). , Splice, solder or wire-nut together to make repairs.
Test as outlined previously above. , At this point if you haven't found the problem, additional tests Use-a-Multimeter will be needed.
If this term (multimeter) is not familiar to you, and you don't have a clue as to how to measure voltage and continuity, it may be best to turn the work over to a repair shop (if the fixture is important to you). ,,,,
About the Author
Michael Campbell
Enthusiastic about teaching lifestyle techniques through clear, step-by-step guides.
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