How to Replace Brakes on a John Deere 5105 Tractor

Find a good work area, preferably in a closed in shop.,Make sure the tractor is cleaned before pulling it into the work area., Acquire the proper tools for the job.,With the tractor in the work space, put the wedges between the front axle and the...

32 Steps 2 min read Advanced

Step-by-Step Guide

  1. Step 1: Find a good work area

    Also, make sure the work area is clean. ,, The following are the tools required: wood wedges, 3 ton floor jack and jack stands, a cherry picker hoist, short chain with hooks, 1/2" drive impact socket set, 1/2" drive impact, 1/2" drive torque wrench, a set of wrenches and a 3/8" drive socket set with ratchet.,, Place the jack stands under the tractor and be careful not to place them under the final drives.

    The best place to place the jack stands is under the transmission.

    Once jack stands are in place the tractor can be set down and the jack removed.,, Be sure to set them out of the way and start draining the hydraulic oil from the tractor., Leave two bolts loose in the final drive and wrap it with a chain and hook the cherry picker hoist to it., Once the bolts are removed the final drive can be pulled away from the tractor and set down.,,, There should be a metal disc, brake pad, metal disc, brake pad, then the brake piston.

    A bolt from one of the clips might need to be loosened to remove the metal discs and brakes.,,, Make sure if the clamp was loosened to tighten it back.

    The shaft that connects the final drive and transmission can be installed in the final drive., Also, remove the strainer and either clean or install a new one depending on the condition., Lift them with the cherry picker.

    Put a seal maker on the edge of the final drive housing before pushing it back to the tractor.

    The final drives may need to be wiggled and turned some for them to line up., Slowly turn the bolts to pull the final drives in to the transmission., Use a torque wrench and the proper torquing procedure to tighten the bolts to 75ftlbs.,, Replace the hydraulic oil.,, Each brake should have about 2 1/2" of travel and should both have equal amounts of travel., Test the brakes and make sure they are working properly.

    If they aren't they might have to be adjusted more or something was done wrong in the repair process.
  2. Step 2: preferably in a closed in shop.

  3. Step 3: Make sure the tractor is cleaned before pulling it into the work area.

  4. Step 4: Acquire the proper tools for the job.

  5. Step 5: With the tractor in the work space

  6. Step 6: put the wedges between the front axle and the frame.

  7. Step 7: Place the jack on the rear end of the tractor and jack it up until the rear tires are a 1/2" off the ground.

  8. Step 8: Remove the wheels from both sides of the tractor.

  9. Step 9: Remove the fenders

  10. Step 10: fuel tank

  11. Step 11: and ROPS.

  12. Step 12: Remove the linkage for the brakes from the final drives and start unbolting the final drives.

  13. Step 13: Wiggle the final drive loose and then remove the two bolts.

  14. Step 14: Turn the final drive up so the hub for the wheel is on the bottom and the brakes can be accessed.

  15. Step 15: Remove the shaft that connects the final drive to the tractor and set it on a rag in a clean place.

  16. Step 16: Access and pull out the brakes.

  17. Step 17: Remove the shaft for the linkage from the final drive and remove the seal for it.

  18. Step 18:  Insert the new seal and the shaft can be reinstalled.

  19. Step 19: Put the new brake pads and metal disc back inside the final drive.

  20. Step 20: Remove the hydraulic filter and install a new one.

  21. Step 21: With the new filter on and the strainer cleaned

  22. Step 22: reinstall the final drives.

  23. Step 23: Start 2 bolts in the housing

  24. Step 24: one in the top and one in the bottom.

  25. Step 25: Install the rest of the bolts.

  26. Step 26: Reinstall the fuel tank

  27. Step 27: and fenders.

  28. Step 28: Put the wheels back on the tractor.

  29. Step 29: Jack the tractor up off the jack stands and lower the tractor back on the ground.

  30. Step 30: With the tractor safely on the ground

  31. Step 31: adjust each brake pedal separately.

  32. Step 32: Start and test drive the tractor.

Detailed Guide

Also, make sure the work area is clean. ,, The following are the tools required: wood wedges, 3 ton floor jack and jack stands, a cherry picker hoist, short chain with hooks, 1/2" drive impact socket set, 1/2" drive impact, 1/2" drive torque wrench, a set of wrenches and a 3/8" drive socket set with ratchet.,, Place the jack stands under the tractor and be careful not to place them under the final drives.

The best place to place the jack stands is under the transmission.

Once jack stands are in place the tractor can be set down and the jack removed.,, Be sure to set them out of the way and start draining the hydraulic oil from the tractor., Leave two bolts loose in the final drive and wrap it with a chain and hook the cherry picker hoist to it., Once the bolts are removed the final drive can be pulled away from the tractor and set down.,,, There should be a metal disc, brake pad, metal disc, brake pad, then the brake piston.

A bolt from one of the clips might need to be loosened to remove the metal discs and brakes.,,, Make sure if the clamp was loosened to tighten it back.

The shaft that connects the final drive and transmission can be installed in the final drive., Also, remove the strainer and either clean or install a new one depending on the condition., Lift them with the cherry picker.

Put a seal maker on the edge of the final drive housing before pushing it back to the tractor.

The final drives may need to be wiggled and turned some for them to line up., Slowly turn the bolts to pull the final drives in to the transmission., Use a torque wrench and the proper torquing procedure to tighten the bolts to 75ftlbs.,, Replace the hydraulic oil.,, Each brake should have about 2 1/2" of travel and should both have equal amounts of travel., Test the brakes and make sure they are working properly.

If they aren't they might have to be adjusted more or something was done wrong in the repair process.

About the Author

R

Richard Wright

Committed to making cooking accessible and understandable for everyone.

47 articles
View all articles

Rate This Guide

--
Loading...
5
0
4
0
3
0
2
0
1
0

How helpful was this guide? Click to rate: