How to Cut Jeans to Make a Wider Leg

Determine how wide you want the bell to be and how far up the leg you want it to begin., Choose your insert material., Start at the bottom of the leg on each side, using a seam ripper to open the seam to your desired length., Use the seam ripper to...

21 Steps 2 min read Advanced

Step-by-Step Guide

  1. Step 1: Determine how wide you want the bell to be and how far up the leg you want it to begin.

    To work well, the opening should not extend any further up than 1 inch below the knee.
  2. Step 2: Choose your insert material.

    Try to keep your insert fabric close to the weight of the pants fabric.

    Denim with denim, twill with twill, etc.

    Choose a patterned fabric, an alternating color, or paint or embroider on your insert for contrast.

    You might also match the color and weight closely for a more a subtle version. , You will sew the top of these slits closed (so that it doesn't tear anymore) later, when you add the insert (known as a 'gusset'). , You will sew this back into place later when you hem the edge of the gusset. ,,, Be certain the diagonal cut is slightly longer than your slit length.

    When measuring where the bottom cut should begin, keep in mind that you are cutting twice the width that you are looking at because of the fold in your material (e.g.
    4.5 inches will open to 9 inches).

    The reason for doing two pieces at once is to ensure that your gussets match in size and shape. ,,,, It is best if you use the same amount of seam allowance as was used to create the pants. ,, This will reinforce both your long seam as well as the top of the slit opening.

    You may want to backstitch several times over the top point of the slit to prevent unraveling later.

    As you top stitch, you will need to hold the area being sewn flat while allowing the pant leg to bunch up around the presser foot. ,,, Wear them proudly!
  3. Step 3: Start at the bottom of the leg on each side

  4. Step 4: using a seam ripper to open the seam to your desired length.

  5. Step 5: Use the seam ripper to open the hem of the leg several inches on each side of the slit.

  6. Step 6: Measure your openings.

  7. Step 7: Transfer measurement to gusset material.

  8. Step 8: Fold two pieces of your gusset material in half

  9. Step 9: one over the other

  10. Step 10: and mark your cutting line diagonally on the wrong side of the fabric.

  11. Step 11: Cut both sides of your triangle gusset at the same time

  12. Step 12: keeping them symmetrical.

  13. Step 13: Turn the pants inside out.

  14. Step 14: Pin the gusset edges to the raw edges of the slit legs

  15. Step 15: with right sides together.

  16. Step 16: Stitch down the edges of your pinned gusset.

  17. Step 17: Press your seams away from the gusset.

  18. Step 18: Turn the pants right side out and top stitch the seams.

  19. Step 19: Roll the hems together and re-stitch the hem line.

  20. Step 20: Turn the pants right side out and repeat the process for the other leg.

  21. Step 21: Trim any loose threads.

Detailed Guide

To work well, the opening should not extend any further up than 1 inch below the knee.

Try to keep your insert fabric close to the weight of the pants fabric.

Denim with denim, twill with twill, etc.

Choose a patterned fabric, an alternating color, or paint or embroider on your insert for contrast.

You might also match the color and weight closely for a more a subtle version. , You will sew the top of these slits closed (so that it doesn't tear anymore) later, when you add the insert (known as a 'gusset'). , You will sew this back into place later when you hem the edge of the gusset. ,,, Be certain the diagonal cut is slightly longer than your slit length.

When measuring where the bottom cut should begin, keep in mind that you are cutting twice the width that you are looking at because of the fold in your material (e.g.
4.5 inches will open to 9 inches).

The reason for doing two pieces at once is to ensure that your gussets match in size and shape. ,,,, It is best if you use the same amount of seam allowance as was used to create the pants. ,, This will reinforce both your long seam as well as the top of the slit opening.

You may want to backstitch several times over the top point of the slit to prevent unraveling later.

As you top stitch, you will need to hold the area being sewn flat while allowing the pant leg to bunch up around the presser foot. ,,, Wear them proudly!

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Emma Baker

Specializes in breaking down complex hobbies topics into simple steps.

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