How to Build a Compost Bin

Gather your materials., Nail one 2 x 6 board across the bottom of two 4 x 4s., Measure the amount of space you want between each 2 x 6 board., Having chosen your spacing, nail another 2 x 6 onto the 4 x 4 above the previous one., Create another...

10 Steps 4 min read Medium

Step-by-Step Guide

  1. Step 1: Gather your materials.

    For this basic compost bin, you'll want untreated wood.

    Untreated wood will last for a plenty long time, and the treatment won't interfere with the composting process or overwhelm helpful fauna.

    Cedar is a great option.

    You'll need:
    Four pieces of 2 x 2s or 4 x 4s lumber, cut to 3' lengths.

    These posts will serve as the four corners to your square compost bin.

    Opt for rough, unplaned wood.8-16 pieces of 2 x 6 lumber, again cut to 3' length.

    These boards will make up the walls of your compost bin.

    Most compost bins have spaces between the exterior boards for aeration; how big you want your spaces to be will depend on whether you use 8, 12, or 16 pieces of lumber. 9 square foot cover, preferably made of solid wood.

    A solid cover will help maintain a more consistent internal temperature for your compost bin.

    Galvanized nails or coated deck screws.
  2. Step 2: Nail one 2 x 6 board across the bottom of two 4 x 4s.

    Place the two 4 x 4s on the ground, 3' apart so that the 2 x 6 fits evenly on either end.

    Measure off one or two inches from the bottom of each 4 x 4 so that the 2 x 6 will be level.

    Place the 2 x 6 onto the 4 x 4s and drive two nails into each 4 x
    4. , You'll want to continue building the wall by nailing 2 x 6s onto the stakes, but you'll also want a little bit of space between each 2 x
    6.

    How much space you choose is up to you.

    At any rate, you'll want the space between each board to be the same, or else the bin will look less professional and put-together.

    An inch or two is pretty standard.

    Any gap larger than two inches won't effectively hold in the material and will leave it exposed to small animals, such as raccoons and opossums. , Continue nailing 2 x 6s into place, factoring in the desired spacing, until you reach the top of the wall.

    At the end of this step, you'll have two vertical 4 x 4s cross-beamed with three or four perpendicular 2 x 6s.

    This is 1/4 of your square bin. , Put down two 4 x 4s.

    Measure off one or two inches for your starting point.

    Then lay a 2 x 6 board perpendicularly over the 4 x 4s, hammering it into place with four nails.

    Continue placing, then hammering, 2 x 6s perpendicularly over the 4 x 4s — leaving the proper spacing — until you have wall no. 2 assembled.

    The two walls should be mirror images of one another. , As with the previous 2 x 6s, measure off from the bottom, drive in four nails, and space each one evenly.

    Hammer down 2 x 6s across the back wall of the 4 x 4 until the bin has three walls entirely built.

    Make sure to offset the nails you drive into the 2 x 6s so that they don't collide with the nails driven into the 4 x 4s in the previous steps. , Hammer three or four 2 x 6s across the front face of the bin, following the same routine and remembering to offset the nails.

    For greater ease of use, make the front side removable either by adding hinges to the front boards or grooves for them to slide in and out of.

    This will make the easier to stir, turn, or remove the compost when needed. , You can use a tarp or wood for the compost bin, although wood is decidedly better at retaining heat over the long run.

    If you desire, consider making two small wooden handles and attaching them to either side of your cover for easier placement. , One bin contains active compost material; another bin contains processed (or processing) compost materials; the final bin contains soil you'll use to cover the active compost bin.
  3. Step 3: Measure the amount of space you want between each 2 x 6 board.

  4. Step 4: Having chosen your spacing

  5. Step 5: nail another 2 x 6 onto the 4 x 4 above the previous one.

  6. Step 6: Create another section of the wall in the exact same manner.

  7. Step 7: Prop up the two walls parallel to one another and connect the back end of the bin with a perpendicular 2 x 6.

  8. Step 8: Complete the bin by placing the final boards perpendicularly across the front side.

  9. Step 9: Cover with a 9 square foot cover.

  10. Step 10: Consider making one or two more identical bins so that you can have a turning unit.

Detailed Guide

For this basic compost bin, you'll want untreated wood.

Untreated wood will last for a plenty long time, and the treatment won't interfere with the composting process or overwhelm helpful fauna.

Cedar is a great option.

You'll need:
Four pieces of 2 x 2s or 4 x 4s lumber, cut to 3' lengths.

These posts will serve as the four corners to your square compost bin.

Opt for rough, unplaned wood.8-16 pieces of 2 x 6 lumber, again cut to 3' length.

These boards will make up the walls of your compost bin.

Most compost bins have spaces between the exterior boards for aeration; how big you want your spaces to be will depend on whether you use 8, 12, or 16 pieces of lumber. 9 square foot cover, preferably made of solid wood.

A solid cover will help maintain a more consistent internal temperature for your compost bin.

Galvanized nails or coated deck screws.

Place the two 4 x 4s on the ground, 3' apart so that the 2 x 6 fits evenly on either end.

Measure off one or two inches from the bottom of each 4 x 4 so that the 2 x 6 will be level.

Place the 2 x 6 onto the 4 x 4s and drive two nails into each 4 x
4. , You'll want to continue building the wall by nailing 2 x 6s onto the stakes, but you'll also want a little bit of space between each 2 x
6.

How much space you choose is up to you.

At any rate, you'll want the space between each board to be the same, or else the bin will look less professional and put-together.

An inch or two is pretty standard.

Any gap larger than two inches won't effectively hold in the material and will leave it exposed to small animals, such as raccoons and opossums. , Continue nailing 2 x 6s into place, factoring in the desired spacing, until you reach the top of the wall.

At the end of this step, you'll have two vertical 4 x 4s cross-beamed with three or four perpendicular 2 x 6s.

This is 1/4 of your square bin. , Put down two 4 x 4s.

Measure off one or two inches for your starting point.

Then lay a 2 x 6 board perpendicularly over the 4 x 4s, hammering it into place with four nails.

Continue placing, then hammering, 2 x 6s perpendicularly over the 4 x 4s — leaving the proper spacing — until you have wall no. 2 assembled.

The two walls should be mirror images of one another. , As with the previous 2 x 6s, measure off from the bottom, drive in four nails, and space each one evenly.

Hammer down 2 x 6s across the back wall of the 4 x 4 until the bin has three walls entirely built.

Make sure to offset the nails you drive into the 2 x 6s so that they don't collide with the nails driven into the 4 x 4s in the previous steps. , Hammer three or four 2 x 6s across the front face of the bin, following the same routine and remembering to offset the nails.

For greater ease of use, make the front side removable either by adding hinges to the front boards or grooves for them to slide in and out of.

This will make the easier to stir, turn, or remove the compost when needed. , You can use a tarp or wood for the compost bin, although wood is decidedly better at retaining heat over the long run.

If you desire, consider making two small wooden handles and attaching them to either side of your cover for easier placement. , One bin contains active compost material; another bin contains processed (or processing) compost materials; the final bin contains soil you'll use to cover the active compost bin.

About the Author

T

Teresa Butler

Writer and educator with a focus on practical lifestyle knowledge.

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