How to Build a Humanure Compost Bin
Site the bin., Do the necessary site work for planting your posts., Replace the stakes with posts, one at a time., Get all the posts plumb with a 4' level. , Begin attaching horizontal boards., Continue adding boards to the bin., Fill in with more...
Step-by-Step Guide
-
Step 1: Site the bin.
The only thing you can't change about a structure once it's up is its location.
Pick a place that is away from high-traffic areas, one that gets plenty of sun for decomposition, but also retains moisture
- a nearby tree will provide sufficient shade.
However, stay at least 6 feet (1.8 m) away from the tree, so there's no migration of insects from the bin to the tree.
Try to site the bin nearby your garden if possible, so there's less work moving the compost to your planting beds. -
Step 2: Do the necessary site work for planting your posts.
Batter boards and masonry line are not essential in a project like this; simply pound in stakes where you think the posts should go and run line between them.
Measure your distances and try make everything equal.
In this bin, there are 8 posts, all 5' apart.
Get far back and look to see how the bin will be oriented
- Try to get it parallel with any nearby structures or your garden. , Try to avoid treated lumber here.
It could adversely affect your composting, and leak toxins into the soil.
Regular lumber can be used if it's embedded the right way:
Dig down 2' if possible with a post hole digger.
Wedge a flat stone into the bottom of the hole.
Set the post in.
Backfill with 8" to 12" of gravel.
Shove some clay in to act as a binder.
Wedge some stones in
- pound them in with a hammer so the post is immovable.
Add more dirt and tamp it well with your heel, so there's a mound above grade.
This post won't go anywhere, and the gravel will keep the hole dry. ,, Again, avoid treated wood.
Even rough-sawn greenwood boards will work.
It's better to replace a few boards every few years than risk contaminating the compost.
Try to stagger 10' lengths of board across the back for a tight hold.
If you have no one to help you hold the board in place as you fasten, use clamps.
With old boards out in the sun like this it's important to use screws and large 16d nails.
They'll hold much longer.
Try to use two to three screws per board, and for the rest
- big nails.
Nails are much cheaper. , The boards can be cut with a handsaw.
And if the wood's wet, a circular saw will bind up constantly. , Typically, the outside chambers are used for each year's compost (humanure takes 2 years
- it needs a full year to break down), and the centre chamber is for cover materials.
The structure will keep moisture in and critters out.
If animals become a problem, attach chicken wire or lath across the front. , -
Step 3: Replace the stakes with posts
-
Step 4: one at a time.
-
Step 5: Get all the posts plumb with a 4' level.
-
Step 6: Begin attaching horizontal boards.
-
Step 7: Continue adding boards to the bin.
-
Step 8: Fill in with more boards until the structure is complete.
-
Step 9: Start composting
-
Step 10: and prepare for a highly productive garden!
Detailed Guide
The only thing you can't change about a structure once it's up is its location.
Pick a place that is away from high-traffic areas, one that gets plenty of sun for decomposition, but also retains moisture
- a nearby tree will provide sufficient shade.
However, stay at least 6 feet (1.8 m) away from the tree, so there's no migration of insects from the bin to the tree.
Try to site the bin nearby your garden if possible, so there's less work moving the compost to your planting beds.
Batter boards and masonry line are not essential in a project like this; simply pound in stakes where you think the posts should go and run line between them.
Measure your distances and try make everything equal.
In this bin, there are 8 posts, all 5' apart.
Get far back and look to see how the bin will be oriented
- Try to get it parallel with any nearby structures or your garden. , Try to avoid treated lumber here.
It could adversely affect your composting, and leak toxins into the soil.
Regular lumber can be used if it's embedded the right way:
Dig down 2' if possible with a post hole digger.
Wedge a flat stone into the bottom of the hole.
Set the post in.
Backfill with 8" to 12" of gravel.
Shove some clay in to act as a binder.
Wedge some stones in
- pound them in with a hammer so the post is immovable.
Add more dirt and tamp it well with your heel, so there's a mound above grade.
This post won't go anywhere, and the gravel will keep the hole dry. ,, Again, avoid treated wood.
Even rough-sawn greenwood boards will work.
It's better to replace a few boards every few years than risk contaminating the compost.
Try to stagger 10' lengths of board across the back for a tight hold.
If you have no one to help you hold the board in place as you fasten, use clamps.
With old boards out in the sun like this it's important to use screws and large 16d nails.
They'll hold much longer.
Try to use two to three screws per board, and for the rest
- big nails.
Nails are much cheaper. , The boards can be cut with a handsaw.
And if the wood's wet, a circular saw will bind up constantly. , Typically, the outside chambers are used for each year's compost (humanure takes 2 years
- it needs a full year to break down), and the centre chamber is for cover materials.
The structure will keep moisture in and critters out.
If animals become a problem, attach chicken wire or lath across the front. ,
About the Author
Lori Chavez
Brings years of experience writing about lifestyle and related subjects.
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