How to Make a Garden Swing
Cut your pieces using a circular saw., Attach the support joists to the front apron., Attach the back apron to the tops of the support joists., Add the back supports., Cut your pieces., Attach the arm fronts to the front apron., Secure the arm rests...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Cut your pieces using a circular saw.
You will need five 21-inch (53.34-centimeter) long boards for the support joists.
You will also need two 72-inch (182.88-centimeter) long boards for the front and back aprons.
Lastly, you will need five 18⅛-inch (46.038-centimeter) long boards for the back supports Each board needs to be 4 inches (10.16 centimeters) wide and 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) thick., They need to be 15⅝ inches (39.69-centimeters) apart.
Make sure that the first and last support joists are flush with the edges of the front apron.
Drill 1½-inch (3.81-centimeter) pocket holes first, then insert 2½-inch (6.35-centimeter) pocket hole screws.
You will need two pocket holes on each end of each board.Both the jousts and the apron should be standing up on their sides. , When you are done, you should have a rectangle with three vertical bars running through it.
Use 2½-inch (6.35-centimeter) screws and wood glue.
Drill the holes first, then coat both pieces of wood with wood glue.
Clamp the boards together, then insert the screws. , Attach them to the back apron.
They need to be 13⅝ inches (34.61 centimeters) apart.
Use 2½-inch (6.35-centimeter) screws and wood glue. , You will need two 11¼-inch (28.58-centimeter) long boards for the arm fronts.
You will also need two 25½-inch (64.77-centimeter) long boards for the arm rests.
Each board needs to be 4 inches (10.16 centimeters) wide and 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) thick., Attach each arm front to the each end of the front apron.
Make sure that the bottom edge of each arm front is aligned with the bottom edge of the apron.
Once again, use 2½-inch (6.35-centimeter) screws and wood glue. , Make sure that the back end of the arm rest is level with the front end.
Use a level to make sure that the arm rests are flat.
Secure them with 2½-inch (6.35-centimeter) screws and wood glue. , You will need six boards that at 72 inches (182.88 centimeters) long.
Each board needs to be 6 inches (15.24 centimeters) wide and 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) thick., Position the slats above and below the arm rests.
The top of the bottom slat should be flush with the bottom of the arm rest.
Use 2-inch (5.08-centimeter) finish nails and wood glue. , Attach the remaining four slats to the support joists.
Leave ½-inch (1.27-centimeter) gaps between them.
The first slat should be flush to the arm fronts.
The back slat should be flush to the back supports.
Use 2-inch (5.08-centimeter) finish nails and wood glue. , Fill in any holes using wood filler.
Let the filler dry, then sand it smooth with 120 grit sandpaper—be sure that you sand with the wood grain, not against it.
Wipe away any dust using a damp cloth.
If you will be painting your swing, it would be a good idea to apply some primer., If you wish to preserve the natural texture of the wood, apply a wood stain.
If you wish to give it a solid color, paint it with a durable, outdoor quality paint.
Apply the paint or stain according to the directions on the can, as each product will be a little different.
You may need more than one coat of paint.
Be sure to let the previous coat dry before applying the next one. , Choose a waterproof, outdoor quality varnish.
Apply three coats to your swing.
Allow each coat to dry before applying the next one.
Whether you use a matte, satin, or glossy finish is entirely up to you.Sealing is important, even if the paint you use is labeled as waterproof. , Drill the hole first, all the way through the joust.
Place a washer over the hole, then a nut.
Twist in the eye bolt, all the way through the board.
Place another washer over the end of the bolt on the other side of the beam.
Lastly, twist on the nut.Make sure that the looped part of the bolt is oriented vertically.
When you look at the swing straight on from the front, it should be shaped like a "O". , Cut two long pieces of study rope.
Feed your first rope through both hooks on the left side.
Feed your second rope through both hooks on the right side.
Tie the ends together into a sturdy knot on each side.
The rope needs to have a 200-pound (90.72-kilo) weight capacity. , Make sure that whatever you are hanging the swing from can support the weight.
If you are hanging the swing from a set of rafters, use eye screws or heavy duty swing hangers.If the swing is still too tippy after you hang it, add one more set of eye bolts and ropes to the backrest.For more comfort, hang it at a slight backward angle, about five degrees. -
Step 2: Attach the support joists to the front apron.
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Step 3: Attach the back apron to the tops of the support joists.
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Step 4: Add the back supports.
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Step 5: Cut your pieces.
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Step 6: Attach the arm fronts to the front apron.
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Step 7: Secure the arm rests on top.
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Step 8: Cut the slats.
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Step 9: Attach two slats to the back rest.
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Step 10: Add the seat slats.
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Step 11: Smooth out the surface of the wood
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Step 12: if needed.
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Step 13: Paint or stain the swing.
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Step 14: Seal the swing.
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Step 15: Attach eye bolts to sides of support jousts
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Step 16: right between the arm front and back rest.
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Step 17: Feed the rope through both hooks and tie.
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Step 18: Attach the swing to a sturdy branch or rafter.
Detailed Guide
You will need five 21-inch (53.34-centimeter) long boards for the support joists.
You will also need two 72-inch (182.88-centimeter) long boards for the front and back aprons.
Lastly, you will need five 18⅛-inch (46.038-centimeter) long boards for the back supports Each board needs to be 4 inches (10.16 centimeters) wide and 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) thick., They need to be 15⅝ inches (39.69-centimeters) apart.
Make sure that the first and last support joists are flush with the edges of the front apron.
Drill 1½-inch (3.81-centimeter) pocket holes first, then insert 2½-inch (6.35-centimeter) pocket hole screws.
You will need two pocket holes on each end of each board.Both the jousts and the apron should be standing up on their sides. , When you are done, you should have a rectangle with three vertical bars running through it.
Use 2½-inch (6.35-centimeter) screws and wood glue.
Drill the holes first, then coat both pieces of wood with wood glue.
Clamp the boards together, then insert the screws. , Attach them to the back apron.
They need to be 13⅝ inches (34.61 centimeters) apart.
Use 2½-inch (6.35-centimeter) screws and wood glue. , You will need two 11¼-inch (28.58-centimeter) long boards for the arm fronts.
You will also need two 25½-inch (64.77-centimeter) long boards for the arm rests.
Each board needs to be 4 inches (10.16 centimeters) wide and 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) thick., Attach each arm front to the each end of the front apron.
Make sure that the bottom edge of each arm front is aligned with the bottom edge of the apron.
Once again, use 2½-inch (6.35-centimeter) screws and wood glue. , Make sure that the back end of the arm rest is level with the front end.
Use a level to make sure that the arm rests are flat.
Secure them with 2½-inch (6.35-centimeter) screws and wood glue. , You will need six boards that at 72 inches (182.88 centimeters) long.
Each board needs to be 6 inches (15.24 centimeters) wide and 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) thick., Position the slats above and below the arm rests.
The top of the bottom slat should be flush with the bottom of the arm rest.
Use 2-inch (5.08-centimeter) finish nails and wood glue. , Attach the remaining four slats to the support joists.
Leave ½-inch (1.27-centimeter) gaps between them.
The first slat should be flush to the arm fronts.
The back slat should be flush to the back supports.
Use 2-inch (5.08-centimeter) finish nails and wood glue. , Fill in any holes using wood filler.
Let the filler dry, then sand it smooth with 120 grit sandpaper—be sure that you sand with the wood grain, not against it.
Wipe away any dust using a damp cloth.
If you will be painting your swing, it would be a good idea to apply some primer., If you wish to preserve the natural texture of the wood, apply a wood stain.
If you wish to give it a solid color, paint it with a durable, outdoor quality paint.
Apply the paint or stain according to the directions on the can, as each product will be a little different.
You may need more than one coat of paint.
Be sure to let the previous coat dry before applying the next one. , Choose a waterproof, outdoor quality varnish.
Apply three coats to your swing.
Allow each coat to dry before applying the next one.
Whether you use a matte, satin, or glossy finish is entirely up to you.Sealing is important, even if the paint you use is labeled as waterproof. , Drill the hole first, all the way through the joust.
Place a washer over the hole, then a nut.
Twist in the eye bolt, all the way through the board.
Place another washer over the end of the bolt on the other side of the beam.
Lastly, twist on the nut.Make sure that the looped part of the bolt is oriented vertically.
When you look at the swing straight on from the front, it should be shaped like a "O". , Cut two long pieces of study rope.
Feed your first rope through both hooks on the left side.
Feed your second rope through both hooks on the right side.
Tie the ends together into a sturdy knot on each side.
The rope needs to have a 200-pound (90.72-kilo) weight capacity. , Make sure that whatever you are hanging the swing from can support the weight.
If you are hanging the swing from a set of rafters, use eye screws or heavy duty swing hangers.If the swing is still too tippy after you hang it, add one more set of eye bolts and ropes to the backrest.For more comfort, hang it at a slight backward angle, about five degrees.
About the Author
Brenda Gonzales
Brings years of experience writing about DIY projects and related subjects.
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