How to Make a Wooden Cabinet with Dovetail Joints
Plane the rough sawn timber square., When the glue is dry, rip the boards down to width on a table saw., Cut the sides, top and bottom components to length ready for jointing., After cutting the components to length, cut the stopped housings on the...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Plane the rough sawn timber square.
Then plane the thickness down to 21mm (0.82 of an inch).
Glue any boards that aren't wide enough with simple rub joints. -
Step 2: When the glue is dry
Then clean up the sawn edges with a fore plane. , You can cut these by hand using a bench hook and shooting board combination jig. , You can cut these with a router with a 12mm (0.4 of an inch) straight two-flute cutter and a guide rail to keep the grooves straight. ,, Aim to have a slightly tight fit and pare back with a shoulder plane or paring chisel. , Part 2 , Mock up the separate components into a rectangle then mark with part triangles on each front edge as a reminder of their finished position. , Remember to allow for a half pin at either end.
For aesthetic reasons, you may want to keep the spacing between tails to a minimum because machine cut dovetails on the best commercially available dovetail jigs can't cut much below a 6mm gap between tails, translating into a fairly wide minimum pin width.
You can use this to your advantage! If you see a set of dovetails with very narrow pins you'll know, and others will know, that they must have been cut by hand.
Vary the width of the tails.
You can create the tails wider in the middle and narrower the closer they get to each edge.
The theory is that this creates more support where the stress is greatest, meaning that those dovetails nearer an edge will have more stresses exerted on them because they're not so supported by the next in line.
This rule also makes for a more interesting layout and emphasizes the fact they're cut by hand. , Leave the marking gauge set because you'll need the measurements for both your tails and pins. , A Veritas dovetail marker makes life easier.
If you're using a sliding bevel it should be set at a ratio of 1:8 for hardwoods and 1:6 for softwoods. ,, These saws have fine kerfs with rip set teeth which are ideal for this kind of work. ,,, When chiseling, remember to cut no more than about halfway, then turn your workpiece over and work from the other side so that both external cuts are clean.
It can help to secure your workpiece with a clamp. ,, Hold the timber in the vice with the end grain facing upwards, then place the finished tails over the end grain.
Pack this up on the workbench to allow downward pressure to be exerted with one hand, while your free hand scores a line with a craft knife along the tail sides. ,, It's so easy to cut on the wrong side of the line, so be careful! Here's what to do:
With the tail positions clearly marked, use a pencil to crosshatch these areas as a reminder of which parts are waste and which side of the line to cut. ,, Part 2 , You can use a keyhole cutter; it's a great solution to an age-old problem.
You simply plunge the cutter to a set depth, move it along for a short distance then switch off the router, wait for the cutter to stop spinning, then carefully pull the cutter back to the initial plunge location and remove. , You can use a small round-over bit in a quarter inch (6.3mm) router to soften the shelf fronts.
It's surprising how these subtle touches add up to a pleasing whole., When all is done, try partially assembling everything dry just to make sure nothing has been forgotten.
Note:
Only ever push the dovetails halfway home during a dry assembly; this ensures the best possible fit when gluing up. , You really don't need that much; it's better to avoid squeeze out by using just the bare minimum.
Use a glue brush for best results as these ensure a thin even coat over the gluing surface.
Immediately wipe away any excess glue that oozes out upon assembly.
This will prevent it from drying in an obvious lump. , Dovetails don't need clamping but housings do, so make sure you have enough clamps ready to go. ,,, You can use a shellac-based sanding sealer, then wax with a beeswax and pure turpentine mix.
It's an easy finish to apply and looks great against the wall. , Place where you want the cabinet on display and add your objects to it. -
Step 3: rip the boards down to width on a table saw.
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Step 4: Cut the sides
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Step 5: top and bottom components to length ready for jointing.
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Step 6: After cutting the components to length
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Step 7: cut the stopped housings on the shelf sides to hold the shelves.
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Step 8: Use a mitre saw with trenching facility to cut the shoulders on the end of the shelves to fit the 12mm (0.4 of an inch) housings.
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Step 9: Dry assemble the shelves and sides to check the fit.
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Step 10: If the shelves are slightly too tight
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Step 11: use a shoulder plane or paring chisel to trim them to a nice snug fit.
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Step 12: Work out the order in which the sides will be joined.
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Step 13: Work out how many tails you want and what the width of each tail should be.
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Step 14: Use a marking gauge to mark the thickness of your material.
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Step 15: Mark out the tails using either a sliding bevel or a marking template.
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Step 16: Mark a pencil line across the end grain with a square as a visual guide to keep your saw cut square when cutting.
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Step 17: Cut the tails with a dovetail or gents saw.
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Step 18: Remove waste with a coping saw.
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Step 19: Cut away the two external pin areas and pare these back with a sharp chisel.
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Step 20: Lay the work face down on a piece of scrap material and chisel down to the line created with the marking gauge.
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Step 21: If your initial saw cuts aren't as accurate as you'd like
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Step 22: place the workpiece in the vice and carefully pair them with a sharp chisel.
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Step 23: Mark your pins.
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Step 24: Use a small square to mark vertical lines with a pencil to correspond with the tail outlines on the end grain to serve as vertical guides when cutting the waste later.
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Step 25: Use your pre-set marking gauge to scribe the areas to be cut to create the pins.
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Step 26: Cut out the waste as before with a dovetail and a coping saw.
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Step 27: Chisel to the scribe line as accurately as you can.
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Step 28: Conceal your fixings
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Step 29: if desired.
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Step 30: Consider softening the shelf fronts.
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Step 31: Prior to gluing the shelves
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Step 32: make sure that all components are clean.
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Step 33: Limit your use of glue.
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Step 34: Use clamps while gluing.
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Step 35: Give the glue enough time to cure before cleaning up.
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Step 36: Spend a bit of time getting the surface right before applying any finish.
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Step 37: Seal the shelves if desired.
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Step 38: Finished.
Detailed Guide
Then plane the thickness down to 21mm (0.82 of an inch).
Glue any boards that aren't wide enough with simple rub joints.
Then clean up the sawn edges with a fore plane. , You can cut these by hand using a bench hook and shooting board combination jig. , You can cut these with a router with a 12mm (0.4 of an inch) straight two-flute cutter and a guide rail to keep the grooves straight. ,, Aim to have a slightly tight fit and pare back with a shoulder plane or paring chisel. , Part 2 , Mock up the separate components into a rectangle then mark with part triangles on each front edge as a reminder of their finished position. , Remember to allow for a half pin at either end.
For aesthetic reasons, you may want to keep the spacing between tails to a minimum because machine cut dovetails on the best commercially available dovetail jigs can't cut much below a 6mm gap between tails, translating into a fairly wide minimum pin width.
You can use this to your advantage! If you see a set of dovetails with very narrow pins you'll know, and others will know, that they must have been cut by hand.
Vary the width of the tails.
You can create the tails wider in the middle and narrower the closer they get to each edge.
The theory is that this creates more support where the stress is greatest, meaning that those dovetails nearer an edge will have more stresses exerted on them because they're not so supported by the next in line.
This rule also makes for a more interesting layout and emphasizes the fact they're cut by hand. , Leave the marking gauge set because you'll need the measurements for both your tails and pins. , A Veritas dovetail marker makes life easier.
If you're using a sliding bevel it should be set at a ratio of 1:8 for hardwoods and 1:6 for softwoods. ,, These saws have fine kerfs with rip set teeth which are ideal for this kind of work. ,,, When chiseling, remember to cut no more than about halfway, then turn your workpiece over and work from the other side so that both external cuts are clean.
It can help to secure your workpiece with a clamp. ,, Hold the timber in the vice with the end grain facing upwards, then place the finished tails over the end grain.
Pack this up on the workbench to allow downward pressure to be exerted with one hand, while your free hand scores a line with a craft knife along the tail sides. ,, It's so easy to cut on the wrong side of the line, so be careful! Here's what to do:
With the tail positions clearly marked, use a pencil to crosshatch these areas as a reminder of which parts are waste and which side of the line to cut. ,, Part 2 , You can use a keyhole cutter; it's a great solution to an age-old problem.
You simply plunge the cutter to a set depth, move it along for a short distance then switch off the router, wait for the cutter to stop spinning, then carefully pull the cutter back to the initial plunge location and remove. , You can use a small round-over bit in a quarter inch (6.3mm) router to soften the shelf fronts.
It's surprising how these subtle touches add up to a pleasing whole., When all is done, try partially assembling everything dry just to make sure nothing has been forgotten.
Note:
Only ever push the dovetails halfway home during a dry assembly; this ensures the best possible fit when gluing up. , You really don't need that much; it's better to avoid squeeze out by using just the bare minimum.
Use a glue brush for best results as these ensure a thin even coat over the gluing surface.
Immediately wipe away any excess glue that oozes out upon assembly.
This will prevent it from drying in an obvious lump. , Dovetails don't need clamping but housings do, so make sure you have enough clamps ready to go. ,,, You can use a shellac-based sanding sealer, then wax with a beeswax and pure turpentine mix.
It's an easy finish to apply and looks great against the wall. , Place where you want the cabinet on display and add your objects to it.
About the Author
Amanda Murray
Brings years of experience writing about crafts and related subjects.
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