How to Plant Under a Tree
Pick out plants that thrive in shade., Prepare the soil around the tree., Avoid root disturbance by adding a thick layer of compost to the soil., Give your plants plenty of space., Cover the soil with mulch., Keep the soil moist., Do not build...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Pick out plants that thrive in shade.
The area beneath large, mature trees can be planted with flowering perennials and annuals to brighten an otherwise drab and often bare patch of land.
The plants must be chosen carefully, however, as not all perennials and annuals can grow there.
You should select plants that thrive in the shade and are shallow-rooted.
Hostas (Hosta spp.) are ideal for such areas.
Their large leaves can be variegated or various shades of blue and green and their flowers are commonly purple or white.
They are generally hardy in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 9, although this varies somewhat depending on the cultivar, and range in height from a few inches to 5 feet (1.5 m).
Impatiens (Impatiens spp.)are flowering annuals that are good for growing under a tree.
They are available in a variety of colors and sizes and bloom profusely from spring to first frost.
Other plants that can be grown under trees include cyclamen, bluebells, foam flower, spotted dead nettle, sweet woodruff, Canadian wild ginger, ferns, and vinca.
Understory plantings that have high canopies might be a good place for bleeding hearts and 'PJM' rhododendrons. -
Step 2: Prepare the soil around the tree.
It is a good idea to place several inches of compost, grass clippings, and/or leaf mold around the tree in question before adding any extra plants.
This is especially true for gardeners who are trying to create underplantings for coniferous trees, because the fallen needles underneath them tend to make the soil too acidic for other plants to survive there.
Spread a 2-inch layer of compost, sphagnum peat moss, aged cow manure or a 50 percent combination of good topsoil and sphagnum peat moss, cow manure or compost over the area under the tree.
Work it into the top 4 inches (10.2 cm) of soil with a dirt shovel.
Be very careful to avoid digging too deep and damaging the tree roots.
Smooth out the loosened, amended soil with a dirt rake. , Using a substantial layer of compost and the smallest possible versions of new plants will also help prevent root disturbance.
Choosing small plants will mitigate the amount of soil disturbance required to cover their roots.
The compost helps because it forms a soil-like layer in which plants can easily be placed so that gardeners do not have to dig into the original soil. , Plant the perennials or annuals in the spring after the last expected hard frost.
Dig the planting holes with a hand shovel to avoid damaging the tree roots.
The hole should be just deep enough for the perennial or annual plant’s roots.
Where larger surface tree roots are growing, position the plants a few inches away from the root.
Be sure to space the plants out to allow for their mature width.
For example, if a particular hosta cultivar is expected to reach a width of 2 feet (0.6 m), set multiple hostas 2 feet (0.6 m) or more apart so there will be at least an inch or two between the mature plants. , Spread a 2-inch depth of organic mulch over the soil around the plants but keep it away from the bark of the tree.
There should be at least 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to
7.6 cm) of space between the tree and the mulch to protect the tree from rot and disease. , Water the plants often enough to keep the soil from drying out completely.
Since they are planted under a tree, they will have to be watered more often than if they were planted in a garden away from the tree.
Trees absorb huge amounts of water and will easily out-compete smaller plants. , Avoid building a raised bed around a tree.
The addition of even 6 inches (15.2 cm) of soil over its root structure and up against its bark commonly causes serious damage to a tree which may not become evident for two to five years.
The additional soil reduces oxygen levels around the tree’s root system and roots need oxygen to stay healthy.
Roots will often grow up into a raised bed in search of oxygen, defeating the whole point of building it in the first place.
The soil will also cause tree bark to rot or develop fungal and bacterial infections. , When making underplantings, gardeners should not use power tools because doing so could harm the tree roots and severely damage the tree itself. , For underplantings, it is recommended that gardeners choose a few types of plants and use them in large quantities for a cohesive design.
Likewise, selecting a color scheme of two or three complementary hues is the best way to obtain good results.
Both of these factors will help one’s underplanting from end up a garish eyesore.
However, gardeners should keep in mind that even the best designs will take a few years before they flow together and stop looking sparse. , It is recommended that gardeners arrange their plants in wavy, drifting lines similar to how they appear in nature.
Underplantings that encircle the tree and bare spots near the tree trunk don’t look natural at all, so they should be avoided. , Even if they are only around for a short time period, bulb plants such as daffodils, tulips, snowdrops, and crocuses look great under trees.
Where they are zone compatible, these plants will also self-multiply and this helps fill up bare spots. , Most but not all shade plants tend to be of varying green hues and even the most long lived flowers won’t bloom forever.
Therefore, it’s a good idea to spruce up the contrast in one’s underplantings by adding plants that have different types of foliage. , Gardeners who have created a workable design should feel free to use it on the other trees in their yard so that their entire estate blends together in an appealing way.
This is also a good way to save money if one’s underplantings require division every so often.
It is simple to take the extraneous materials from one tree and move them to the next until the entire yard is filled up at no additional cost. -
Step 3: Avoid root disturbance by adding a thick layer of compost to the soil.
-
Step 4: Give your plants plenty of space.
-
Step 5: Cover the soil with mulch.
-
Step 6: Keep the soil moist.
-
Step 7: Do not build raised beds under your tree.
-
Step 8: Do not use power tools when planting under a tree.
-
Step 9: Keep plant type and color in mind when designing your garden.
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Step 10: Think about how plants would grow naturally when determining where to place your plants.
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Step 11: Consider planting self-multiplying plants.
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Step 12: Try to pick out plants with different kinds of foliage.
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Step 13: Consider creating a cohesive design throughout your yard.
Detailed Guide
The area beneath large, mature trees can be planted with flowering perennials and annuals to brighten an otherwise drab and often bare patch of land.
The plants must be chosen carefully, however, as not all perennials and annuals can grow there.
You should select plants that thrive in the shade and are shallow-rooted.
Hostas (Hosta spp.) are ideal for such areas.
Their large leaves can be variegated or various shades of blue and green and their flowers are commonly purple or white.
They are generally hardy in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 9, although this varies somewhat depending on the cultivar, and range in height from a few inches to 5 feet (1.5 m).
Impatiens (Impatiens spp.)are flowering annuals that are good for growing under a tree.
They are available in a variety of colors and sizes and bloom profusely from spring to first frost.
Other plants that can be grown under trees include cyclamen, bluebells, foam flower, spotted dead nettle, sweet woodruff, Canadian wild ginger, ferns, and vinca.
Understory plantings that have high canopies might be a good place for bleeding hearts and 'PJM' rhododendrons.
It is a good idea to place several inches of compost, grass clippings, and/or leaf mold around the tree in question before adding any extra plants.
This is especially true for gardeners who are trying to create underplantings for coniferous trees, because the fallen needles underneath them tend to make the soil too acidic for other plants to survive there.
Spread a 2-inch layer of compost, sphagnum peat moss, aged cow manure or a 50 percent combination of good topsoil and sphagnum peat moss, cow manure or compost over the area under the tree.
Work it into the top 4 inches (10.2 cm) of soil with a dirt shovel.
Be very careful to avoid digging too deep and damaging the tree roots.
Smooth out the loosened, amended soil with a dirt rake. , Using a substantial layer of compost and the smallest possible versions of new plants will also help prevent root disturbance.
Choosing small plants will mitigate the amount of soil disturbance required to cover their roots.
The compost helps because it forms a soil-like layer in which plants can easily be placed so that gardeners do not have to dig into the original soil. , Plant the perennials or annuals in the spring after the last expected hard frost.
Dig the planting holes with a hand shovel to avoid damaging the tree roots.
The hole should be just deep enough for the perennial or annual plant’s roots.
Where larger surface tree roots are growing, position the plants a few inches away from the root.
Be sure to space the plants out to allow for their mature width.
For example, if a particular hosta cultivar is expected to reach a width of 2 feet (0.6 m), set multiple hostas 2 feet (0.6 m) or more apart so there will be at least an inch or two between the mature plants. , Spread a 2-inch depth of organic mulch over the soil around the plants but keep it away from the bark of the tree.
There should be at least 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to
7.6 cm) of space between the tree and the mulch to protect the tree from rot and disease. , Water the plants often enough to keep the soil from drying out completely.
Since they are planted under a tree, they will have to be watered more often than if they were planted in a garden away from the tree.
Trees absorb huge amounts of water and will easily out-compete smaller plants. , Avoid building a raised bed around a tree.
The addition of even 6 inches (15.2 cm) of soil over its root structure and up against its bark commonly causes serious damage to a tree which may not become evident for two to five years.
The additional soil reduces oxygen levels around the tree’s root system and roots need oxygen to stay healthy.
Roots will often grow up into a raised bed in search of oxygen, defeating the whole point of building it in the first place.
The soil will also cause tree bark to rot or develop fungal and bacterial infections. , When making underplantings, gardeners should not use power tools because doing so could harm the tree roots and severely damage the tree itself. , For underplantings, it is recommended that gardeners choose a few types of plants and use them in large quantities for a cohesive design.
Likewise, selecting a color scheme of two or three complementary hues is the best way to obtain good results.
Both of these factors will help one’s underplanting from end up a garish eyesore.
However, gardeners should keep in mind that even the best designs will take a few years before they flow together and stop looking sparse. , It is recommended that gardeners arrange their plants in wavy, drifting lines similar to how they appear in nature.
Underplantings that encircle the tree and bare spots near the tree trunk don’t look natural at all, so they should be avoided. , Even if they are only around for a short time period, bulb plants such as daffodils, tulips, snowdrops, and crocuses look great under trees.
Where they are zone compatible, these plants will also self-multiply and this helps fill up bare spots. , Most but not all shade plants tend to be of varying green hues and even the most long lived flowers won’t bloom forever.
Therefore, it’s a good idea to spruce up the contrast in one’s underplantings by adding plants that have different types of foliage. , Gardeners who have created a workable design should feel free to use it on the other trees in their yard so that their entire estate blends together in an appealing way.
This is also a good way to save money if one’s underplantings require division every so often.
It is simple to take the extraneous materials from one tree and move them to the next until the entire yard is filled up at no additional cost.
About the Author
Betty Hughes
Specializes in breaking down complex home improvement topics into simple steps.
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