How to Refurbish an Old Cabinet
Acquire an old cabinet., Remove all the hardware from any drawers, doors, legs, etc., Remove the top., Begin removing the old paint using the hot air gun (heat stripper)., Use the stripper to clean up all the nooks and crannies., Sand all surfaces...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Acquire an old cabinet.
The one used in this article is an old baker's cabinet taken from an abandoned house, probably from the 1930s or 40s.
As more and more of the old paint was removed, the construction technique indicated a hand made piece or perhaps a high school shop project.
It's still very old as indicated by the 16” wide clear pine lumber used in the flour bins. -
Step 2: Remove all the hardware from any drawers
The handles removed from this piece, under two layers of paint, were made of brass or copper plated steel.
Much of the plating is worn away, but they can still be reused. , Strip the old paint, or in this case, the old linoleum finish.
If the top is in usable condition, it can be refinished, or as an alternative, apply ceramic tile, or even laminate flooring for a beautiful new look.
If you decide to enlarge the top (for example, to make an eating area), more of the same type of lumber must be acquired to extend it (preferably wood that matches the old), or a new top must be built.
This piece received a new top made from old barn wood so that a breakfast bar could be added to one side. , Keep the gun moving in a circular or back and forth motion so that you do not scorch the wood.
Work in small areas and as the paint begins to bubble, use the putty knife to scrape up the paint.
Be careful not to scratch or gouge the wood.
As one section of paint begins to bubble, hold the gun in front of the knife, and gently push the putty knife forward.
Slowly continue to move the gun forward while scraping.
The hot air gun will only remove paints and varnishes, it will not remove stain. , This is also a good time to clean up any old hardware that you are going to keep, and repair damaged areas of the piece.
A small brass brush and a nail work well for cleaning detailed areas. , To maintain the “old” look, the nicks, gouges, and dents may be left in place.
If the piece will be painted, and a “new” look is desired, putty all the defects and allow the putty to dry before sanding.
Due to shrinking, if the defect is large, more than one layer of putty may be required. , On woods like pine, it is best to use boiled linseed oil thinned with mineral spirits, or a commercially made wood conditioner prior to applying the stain to achieve a more uniform color. ,, A glossy polyurethane finish is a durable choice for cabinets.
An HVLP spray gun is the best thing to use to apply your finish if you have access to one.
Next would be spray cans, but this can become expensive.
Last is the good old brush.
If you use a brush, purchase a good one that is made for finish work.
Apply the finish using gentle strokes so bubbles are kept to a minimum.
After the surface is covered completely, and before the finish begins to set, brush entire area one last time, brushing only in the direction of the grain.
One light stroke is all that is needed.
If the area is large, work in smaller sections, overlapping the edges before the finish becomes tacky. , The purpose of sanding is not to remove the finish, but to “roughen-up” the finish so the next layer will adhere to the old, and to smooth any defects.
Wipe the sanded areas to remove dust with a tack cloth or soft cloth dipped in thinner and apply another coat of finish.
Repeat this step until the desired thickness and sheen is achieved. ,, -
Step 3: Remove the top.
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Step 4: Begin removing the old paint using the hot air gun (heat stripper).
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Step 5: Use the stripper to clean up all the nooks and crannies.
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Step 6: Sand all surfaces until the desired finish is achieved.
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Step 7: Stain the piece with the desired color and let dry.
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Step 8: Apply a coat of primer if the piece is to be painted.
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Step 9: Apply the finish of your choice after allowing the stain to dry
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Step 10: per instructions.
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Step 11: Use X0000 (called 4 aught) steel wool or 220 to 400 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the finished surfaces.
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Step 12: Re-attach hardware after the finish has ample time to cure.
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Step 13: Move the piece to its new home and enjoy your handiwork.
Detailed Guide
The one used in this article is an old baker's cabinet taken from an abandoned house, probably from the 1930s or 40s.
As more and more of the old paint was removed, the construction technique indicated a hand made piece or perhaps a high school shop project.
It's still very old as indicated by the 16” wide clear pine lumber used in the flour bins.
The handles removed from this piece, under two layers of paint, were made of brass or copper plated steel.
Much of the plating is worn away, but they can still be reused. , Strip the old paint, or in this case, the old linoleum finish.
If the top is in usable condition, it can be refinished, or as an alternative, apply ceramic tile, or even laminate flooring for a beautiful new look.
If you decide to enlarge the top (for example, to make an eating area), more of the same type of lumber must be acquired to extend it (preferably wood that matches the old), or a new top must be built.
This piece received a new top made from old barn wood so that a breakfast bar could be added to one side. , Keep the gun moving in a circular or back and forth motion so that you do not scorch the wood.
Work in small areas and as the paint begins to bubble, use the putty knife to scrape up the paint.
Be careful not to scratch or gouge the wood.
As one section of paint begins to bubble, hold the gun in front of the knife, and gently push the putty knife forward.
Slowly continue to move the gun forward while scraping.
The hot air gun will only remove paints and varnishes, it will not remove stain. , This is also a good time to clean up any old hardware that you are going to keep, and repair damaged areas of the piece.
A small brass brush and a nail work well for cleaning detailed areas. , To maintain the “old” look, the nicks, gouges, and dents may be left in place.
If the piece will be painted, and a “new” look is desired, putty all the defects and allow the putty to dry before sanding.
Due to shrinking, if the defect is large, more than one layer of putty may be required. , On woods like pine, it is best to use boiled linseed oil thinned with mineral spirits, or a commercially made wood conditioner prior to applying the stain to achieve a more uniform color. ,, A glossy polyurethane finish is a durable choice for cabinets.
An HVLP spray gun is the best thing to use to apply your finish if you have access to one.
Next would be spray cans, but this can become expensive.
Last is the good old brush.
If you use a brush, purchase a good one that is made for finish work.
Apply the finish using gentle strokes so bubbles are kept to a minimum.
After the surface is covered completely, and before the finish begins to set, brush entire area one last time, brushing only in the direction of the grain.
One light stroke is all that is needed.
If the area is large, work in smaller sections, overlapping the edges before the finish becomes tacky. , The purpose of sanding is not to remove the finish, but to “roughen-up” the finish so the next layer will adhere to the old, and to smooth any defects.
Wipe the sanded areas to remove dust with a tack cloth or soft cloth dipped in thinner and apply another coat of finish.
Repeat this step until the desired thickness and sheen is achieved. ,,
About the Author
Walter Roberts
Walter Roberts has dedicated 11 years to mastering education and learning. As a content creator, Walter focuses on providing actionable tips and step-by-step guides.
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