How to Transplant a Young Tree

Select a sapling to transplant., Choose a suitable spot to receive the new transplant., Dig the hole to receive the transplant first., Dig up the transplant tree., Remove the sapling by grabbing it near the ground and lifting it straight out of the...

9 Steps 4 min read Medium

Step-by-Step Guide

  1. Step 1: Select a sapling to transplant.

    The sapling will need to be small enough that you can dig up its root system with it
    - about no more than 2 or 3 inches / 5 cm
    -
    7.6 cm thick at the base.

    Also, you need to make sure that it is a variety that can handle the stress of transplanting
    - sometimes this will just have to be a case of trial and error if you do not know.

    Some good varieties include oak, birch, magnolia, dogwoods, eucalyptus and tea tree.
  2. Step 2: Choose a suitable spot to receive the new transplant.

    The soil will need to be a similar type, with similar drainage and sun exposure for the new tree to thrive. , Estimate how large the root system will be when you dig it out.

    Allow for the root system to go into the ground to the same depth it was originally at.

    If the soil is extremely hard or compacted, you will want to dig the hole much larger to loosen the soil around the perimeter to make it easier for the roots to spread when they begin to grow outward.

    Normally on a transplanted tree you will want to hold off fertilizing until it begins to get established.

    Adding too much fertilizer or adding it too early will tend to stimulate the tree to put more growth out than the stressed roots can support. , You will need to begin by cutting a circle around the root system of the sapling with a sharp, round pointed shovel.

    Make your cuts about 12 inches /
    30.5 cm from the base of the tree, as deep as you can, so that you preserve the roots intact.

    If the ground is firm enough and has moisture, often you can cut around and down below the main root mass and remove it intact without disturbing the roots.

    If the soil is very dry, you should water it thoroughly before beginning to dig.

    If the soil is loose and sandy, you will need a sheet of plastic or some cloth to set the sapling on to support it during the move. , If it has a large taproot or large roots extending out from the trunk that are not cut through, you will either have to dig until you reach these or find another suitable tree.

    When you force these roots out of the ground you will probably do severe damage to all the roots, and the chances of success are much less.

    If you have pulled the tree up with most of the roots still in soil, you can carry it a short distance to replant it.

    If it is to be loaded and hauled to another location, set it in the center of your plastic or burlap fabric, drawn this material around it to support the roots and soil, and tie it off around the trunk.

    Any shaking, jarring, or other action to the root ball will decrease the chances the tree will survive by loosening the soil around the roots and allowing air to reach them, causing them to dry out. , Make sure that the sapling is at the same depth as when you removed it.

    Ease loose soil in around it to support it, watering as you do so, to eliminate voids or air pockets, but not so much that you wash the soil from the roots. , Use the excess soil that should remain, build a small dike or earth dam about 3 inches /
    7.6 cm high around it, some 2 feet (0.6 m) / 61 cm or so from the trunk.

    This will keep water from running off when you water the tree. , This should help the soil to settle and you can assist to refill the hole by adding more dirt. , If there is a danger of high wind blowing the sapling down before the soil is compacted and the roots begin growing out to establish a new foot hold.

    This can be done by driving some re-bar, pipe, or wooden stakes spaced around the tree about 3 feet (0.9 m) / 91 cm from the trunk, and tying wire or strong string wrapped around the trunk loosely at the lower branches to these stakes.

    You may want to wrap the string or wire with a split cut off piece of garden hose where it contacts the tree to keep it from chaffing the bark there.
  3. Step 3: Dig the hole to receive the transplant first.

  4. Step 4: Dig up the transplant tree.

  5. Step 5: Remove the sapling by grabbing it near the ground and lifting it straight out of the hole.

  6. Step 6: Place the sapling in the hole you have dug at the new location.

  7. Step 7: Fill the hole level with the adjacent ground.

  8. Step 8: Re water the tree after the initial watering has soaked in.

  9. Step 9: Stake the sapling.

Detailed Guide

The sapling will need to be small enough that you can dig up its root system with it
- about no more than 2 or 3 inches / 5 cm
-
7.6 cm thick at the base.

Also, you need to make sure that it is a variety that can handle the stress of transplanting
- sometimes this will just have to be a case of trial and error if you do not know.

Some good varieties include oak, birch, magnolia, dogwoods, eucalyptus and tea tree.

The soil will need to be a similar type, with similar drainage and sun exposure for the new tree to thrive. , Estimate how large the root system will be when you dig it out.

Allow for the root system to go into the ground to the same depth it was originally at.

If the soil is extremely hard or compacted, you will want to dig the hole much larger to loosen the soil around the perimeter to make it easier for the roots to spread when they begin to grow outward.

Normally on a transplanted tree you will want to hold off fertilizing until it begins to get established.

Adding too much fertilizer or adding it too early will tend to stimulate the tree to put more growth out than the stressed roots can support. , You will need to begin by cutting a circle around the root system of the sapling with a sharp, round pointed shovel.

Make your cuts about 12 inches /
30.5 cm from the base of the tree, as deep as you can, so that you preserve the roots intact.

If the ground is firm enough and has moisture, often you can cut around and down below the main root mass and remove it intact without disturbing the roots.

If the soil is very dry, you should water it thoroughly before beginning to dig.

If the soil is loose and sandy, you will need a sheet of plastic or some cloth to set the sapling on to support it during the move. , If it has a large taproot or large roots extending out from the trunk that are not cut through, you will either have to dig until you reach these or find another suitable tree.

When you force these roots out of the ground you will probably do severe damage to all the roots, and the chances of success are much less.

If you have pulled the tree up with most of the roots still in soil, you can carry it a short distance to replant it.

If it is to be loaded and hauled to another location, set it in the center of your plastic or burlap fabric, drawn this material around it to support the roots and soil, and tie it off around the trunk.

Any shaking, jarring, or other action to the root ball will decrease the chances the tree will survive by loosening the soil around the roots and allowing air to reach them, causing them to dry out. , Make sure that the sapling is at the same depth as when you removed it.

Ease loose soil in around it to support it, watering as you do so, to eliminate voids or air pockets, but not so much that you wash the soil from the roots. , Use the excess soil that should remain, build a small dike or earth dam about 3 inches /
7.6 cm high around it, some 2 feet (0.6 m) / 61 cm or so from the trunk.

This will keep water from running off when you water the tree. , This should help the soil to settle and you can assist to refill the hole by adding more dirt. , If there is a danger of high wind blowing the sapling down before the soil is compacted and the roots begin growing out to establish a new foot hold.

This can be done by driving some re-bar, pipe, or wooden stakes spaced around the tree about 3 feet (0.9 m) / 91 cm from the trunk, and tying wire or strong string wrapped around the trunk loosely at the lower branches to these stakes.

You may want to wrap the string or wire with a split cut off piece of garden hose where it contacts the tree to keep it from chaffing the bark there.

About the Author

L

Larry Wells

Professional writer focused on creating easy-to-follow cooking tutorials.

73 articles
View all articles

Rate This Guide

--
Loading...
5
0
4
0
3
0
2
0
1
0

How helpful was this guide? Click to rate: