How to Care for Orchids
Find the right orchid for your home., Buy flowering plants., Consider your growing conditions., Learn how to water your orchids., Maintain the media., Feed the orchid., Understand the differing needs of terrestrial and epiphyte orchids., Provide...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Find the right orchid for your home.
The proper care of orchids starts with choosing plants that are suited to your particular environment.
Consider the orchid's adaptability, ease of growing, ready availability, and their beautiful flowers.
If you do find yourself wanting to extend beyond the easier varieties later, it's recommended that you do plenty of research into the specific needs of the more delicate and fussy varieties of orchids.
Some things to bear in mind when choosing an orchid include:
Will the orchid have enough space when fully grown? Or will it need to be moved somewhere else? Some orchids can be massive when fully grown and are best placed in a greenhouse.
Can you provide the temperature requirements that the orchid needs? Orchids can be divided into three types by temperature requirements––cool, intermediate and warm, meaning that orchids require certain minimum night temperatures in order to grow successfully.
Do you have a greenhouse or conservatory if needed? Many orchids will thrive best in such an environment than simply sitting in the house or on a back porch.
If you don't, prefer the orchids that like being indoors (see list below). -
Step 2: Buy flowering plants.
The plants that already have flowers are a great buy, because it can take up to five years for a seedling to produce a flower.
Unless you're exceedingly patient, or already have a greenhouse full of orchids, you probably don't want to wait that long. , Select an orchid based on the growing conditions in your home.
This matters because each type of orchid has different requirements, dependent on the orchid's origins.
Always read the label accompanying the instructions to make sure the plant is suitable for your home and garden conditions.
Here are some common species of orchids that usually grow well in the basic home environment:
Phalaenopsis:
Usually referred to as moth orchids, these are elegant orchids for indoor use.
Their long sprays of colorful flowers stay fresh for months.
Flowering begins in winter or early spring.
This orchid generally needs less light than cattleyas (see next) and does well in most indoor conditions.
Cattleya:
These orchids are most easily recognized for their use in corsages and for having a flower that can last from two to six weeks.
They usually flower once a year during spring or fall, but need twice the amount of light than moth orchids to do well inside the home.
Dendrobium:
These beautiful orchids produce long, graceful sprays of flowers that are typically white, lavender or a combination of the two, during fall and winter.
Their flowers can remain open about three to four weeks, and they are one of the easiest plants to care for.
Paphiopedilum:
The popular name for this orchid is Lady's Slipper, because the third petal is modified to form a pouch that looks similar to a lady's slipper.
The pouch functions by trapping insects so that they are forced to climb up past the staminode, behind which they collect or deposit pollen.
The leaves are quite often attractive with green or mottled green and white colors.
These orchids require bright light, but no direct sun.
At home, an east, west or shaded south window is best (for the northern hemisphere).
Foliage should be naturally semi-erect and firm, not drooping.
Room temperature is ideal for their growth. , Orchidaceae are one of the largest families of flowering plants, and as such there are many sub-families, or variations, and they have different watering requirements.
What might be parching to one species risks drowning another.
Generally, water your orchids every five to 12 days depending on what type of orchid you have, what the temperature is, and the time of year — or more in summer, less in winter.
While your nursery adviser or florist will be able to give you specific information, here is a general guide to help you determine the best watering course for your orchids:
Keep these varieties evenly moist (not wet) at all times:
Paphiopedilum Miltonia Cymbidium Dontoglossum Keep these varieties evenly moist during active growth, but let them dry out between waterings when they are not:
Cattleya Oncidium Brassia Dendrobium Keep these varieties almost dry between waterings:
Phalaenopsis Vanda Ascocenda Take care to avoid wetting the leaves when you water your orchids.
If they do get wet, gently dry them with a tissue or cotton swab. , Remove the inner pot from the decorative one, place in the sink or in the bathtub.
Add orchid food to a watering can or container, and completely water the base.
Allow the water to completely drain before replacing it into the decorative pottery planter.
Never allow it to sit in water, as it will kill the plant.
Note:
Epiphytic (branch-growing) orchids are not planted in earth like the terrestrial orchid varieties, but in the shell of a coconut, bark or cork.
Or, they can be grown in slatted baskets or on rafts of wood.
Their roots grow from the top, and not the bottom as usually found in terrestrial plants. , In general, once a month is recommended for most fertilizers.
Look for fertilizers that contain nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P) and potassium (K), plus trace elements like iron (Fe).
Use fertilizer with a higher nitrogen percentage when new shoots are coming out, and fertilizer with more phosphorous and potassium later in the season.
Do not overfeed orchids –– this can damage them.
If you're growing your orchid on bark, use a fertilizer that's significantly higher in nitrogen (in a ratio of 30(N)-10(P)-10(K)).
The bacteria in the decomposing bark will consume a lot of nitrogen.
Water your orchid thoroughly before feeding. , Many orchids are epiphytic (tree- or branch-growing) and require very different growing media than terrestrial orchids; indeed, orchids are commonly killed by being planted in soil when they're not a soil type orchid.
Epiphytes have thick, fleshy roots used to attach themselves to trees or bark and to absorb water and nutrients; others have aerial roots that will grow unattached.
Epiphyte orchids grow best in soilless mixtures or attached to pieces of bark or cork.
Epiphytic orchids require a growing media with extremely good aeration and drainage. , Common growing media includes fir bark, coconut husks, sphagnum moss, tree fern fibers, perlite, or a mixture of any of those.
However, the growing medium will depend on the orchid type––terrestrial orchids should have a medium formed mainly of loam with equal parts of such substances as sphagnum moss, damp peat or sharp sand.
Epiphytic orchids should have a growing substance that consists of equal parts of sphagnum moss, finely ground bark, vermiculite and moist peat.
It's easiest to buy readily mixed media suitable for the orchid type, and always know the specific needs of the variety of orchid you're growing, as these can vary quite a bit.
Commercially prepared orchid potting mixes are available or a mixture can be prepared containing chopped tree fern fiber, volcanic stone, charcoal, a little peat, fir bark or combinations of these. , You will need to repot on occasion, both to refresh the media, and to account for growth.
Spring is the usual time for repotting orchids.
Here are some things to consider:
Orchids planted in bark should be repotted every 18 to 24 months, in general.
Select the pot size based on the size of the root mass.
Orchids tend to prefer smaller pots.
With a pot that's significantly larger, the orchid will expend most of its energy rooting, and show no real new growth or foliage for months, so keep the containers small.
All orchids prefer being somewhat root-bound with their roots protruding from the top of the media (or aerial roots should simply hang free).
However, as plants produce more new canes or spikes, they can eventually outgrow their pot.
The pot will affect how you water.
An orchid potted in a porous pot such as clay (good for orchids) will need more frequent watering than an orchid in a plastic container.
Always use a pot with a drainage hole.
Sitting in water will rot the roots and the orchid will become mulch.
In larger pots, media in the center may take much longer to dry out––a condition that will harm your orchid.
To alleviate this, use broken clay pots in the bottom of the container to increase drainage.
If using a clay container, enlarge the drainage hole or make additional holes on the sides (near the bottom) of the pot. , Carefully replant your plant into a slightly larger pot or suitable container, using the suitable porous media suggested above.
Always ensure good drainage.
For a terrestrial orchid:
Remove the plant from the original pot.
Carefully tease off the old medium.
Place the plant into the clean pot, sprinkle in fresh medium around the roots.
Firm into place using a dibble or small stick.
Leave a small space between the compost and rim to allow watering space.
About 12mm (1/2") space is adequate.
For an epiphytic orchid:
Remove the loose, old medium.
Cut away dead roots and discard them.
Hold the orchid upside down and pack new medium around the roots to create a firm ball.
Turn the orchid right side up and place back into the chosen container.
A repotted epiphytic orchid should not be watered for about one week after, as this allows the roots to re-establish.
Water sparingly after this, to ensure the new roots are not damaged. , This is especially important from late spring through summer. , Peak blooming time starts from late winter, primarily February and March in the northern hemisphere.
Blooms normally last from four to twelve weeks.
When the blooms fade, cut off the spike 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) (12mm) above where it projects from the foliage.
Also trim off any dead leaves and tissue, including old flower stems, old leaves, anything rotting, dead roots, etc.
In the event of fungal rot or disease, cut a little past the infected tissue to help stop the progression of the infection. , If you cut part of an orchid leaf, the rest of the leaf may die, and cutting into a live pseudobulb will severely damage your orchid. , This will help prevent the spread of diseases from plant to plant.
It's recommended that you soak the tools in bleach between uses, or use a disposable razor blade. , This will be in the form of a new cane growing from the base of the old ones.
Under correct conditions, the new cane can be larger than the mother cane before it is ready to bloom again.
Cool nighttime temperatures help to initiate blooms.
With proper care in accordance with the variety's particular needs, the orchid plant should grow and bloom annually. , 65–85ºF (18–30ºC) is best.
For brief periods, they can withstand temperatures ranging from 60–100ºF (16–37ºC) but they dislike sudden temperature changes.
Cold temperatures will cause the leaves to turn yellow and eventually drop off.
If this happens, remove the yellow foliage and continue caring for the plant normally. , Having good air circulation can make all the difference for the health of your orchid.
This will help your orchid heal if you do experience a fungal or pest infestation that must be treated.
Air circulation is also a big part of the prevention of these types of infestations by keeping the leaves and flowers dry.
In the summer, open windows so that the natural airflow will circulate the air.
This promotes water evaporation and lots of fresh carbon dioxide.
A gentle breeze will also help orchids handle bright sunlight without scorching the leaves.
In the winter (or in the summer, on still days), use an oscillating fan to gently stir the air.
Move it around occasionally so that one spot isn't being over-blown. , -
Step 3: Consider your growing conditions.
-
Step 4: Learn how to water your orchids.
-
Step 5: Maintain the media.
-
Step 6: Feed the orchid.
-
Step 7: Understand the differing needs of terrestrial and epiphyte orchids.
-
Step 8: Provide suitable growing media for your orchids.
-
Step 9: Repot as needed.
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Step 10: Replant the orchid according to its type.
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Step 11: After repotting
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Step 12: keep the medium appropriately moist.
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Step 13: Maintain the blooms.
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Step 14: Don't prune an orchid like a shrub.
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Step 15: Use sterile tools while cutting an trimming orchids.
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Step 16: Watch for new growth.
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Step 17: Keep the correct temperature.
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Step 18: Ensure proper air circulation.
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Step 19: The following list shows the orchids that can generally handle growing indoors
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Step 20: albeit with some careful placement
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Step 21: additional lighting and temperature control: Brassolaeliocattleya "Norman's Bay" 'Cattleya bowringiana Coelogyne cristata Cymbidium devonianum Cymbidium "Touchstone" Dendrobium nobile Epidendrum cochleatum (also known as Encyclia cochleata) Laelia anceps Maxillaria tenuifolia Miltonia clowesii Paphiopedilum callosum Paphiopedilum "Honey Gorse" Pleione formosana Vanda cristata
Detailed Guide
The proper care of orchids starts with choosing plants that are suited to your particular environment.
Consider the orchid's adaptability, ease of growing, ready availability, and their beautiful flowers.
If you do find yourself wanting to extend beyond the easier varieties later, it's recommended that you do plenty of research into the specific needs of the more delicate and fussy varieties of orchids.
Some things to bear in mind when choosing an orchid include:
Will the orchid have enough space when fully grown? Or will it need to be moved somewhere else? Some orchids can be massive when fully grown and are best placed in a greenhouse.
Can you provide the temperature requirements that the orchid needs? Orchids can be divided into three types by temperature requirements––cool, intermediate and warm, meaning that orchids require certain minimum night temperatures in order to grow successfully.
Do you have a greenhouse or conservatory if needed? Many orchids will thrive best in such an environment than simply sitting in the house or on a back porch.
If you don't, prefer the orchids that like being indoors (see list below).
The plants that already have flowers are a great buy, because it can take up to five years for a seedling to produce a flower.
Unless you're exceedingly patient, or already have a greenhouse full of orchids, you probably don't want to wait that long. , Select an orchid based on the growing conditions in your home.
This matters because each type of orchid has different requirements, dependent on the orchid's origins.
Always read the label accompanying the instructions to make sure the plant is suitable for your home and garden conditions.
Here are some common species of orchids that usually grow well in the basic home environment:
Phalaenopsis:
Usually referred to as moth orchids, these are elegant orchids for indoor use.
Their long sprays of colorful flowers stay fresh for months.
Flowering begins in winter or early spring.
This orchid generally needs less light than cattleyas (see next) and does well in most indoor conditions.
Cattleya:
These orchids are most easily recognized for their use in corsages and for having a flower that can last from two to six weeks.
They usually flower once a year during spring or fall, but need twice the amount of light than moth orchids to do well inside the home.
Dendrobium:
These beautiful orchids produce long, graceful sprays of flowers that are typically white, lavender or a combination of the two, during fall and winter.
Their flowers can remain open about three to four weeks, and they are one of the easiest plants to care for.
Paphiopedilum:
The popular name for this orchid is Lady's Slipper, because the third petal is modified to form a pouch that looks similar to a lady's slipper.
The pouch functions by trapping insects so that they are forced to climb up past the staminode, behind which they collect or deposit pollen.
The leaves are quite often attractive with green or mottled green and white colors.
These orchids require bright light, but no direct sun.
At home, an east, west or shaded south window is best (for the northern hemisphere).
Foliage should be naturally semi-erect and firm, not drooping.
Room temperature is ideal for their growth. , Orchidaceae are one of the largest families of flowering plants, and as such there are many sub-families, or variations, and they have different watering requirements.
What might be parching to one species risks drowning another.
Generally, water your orchids every five to 12 days depending on what type of orchid you have, what the temperature is, and the time of year — or more in summer, less in winter.
While your nursery adviser or florist will be able to give you specific information, here is a general guide to help you determine the best watering course for your orchids:
Keep these varieties evenly moist (not wet) at all times:
Paphiopedilum Miltonia Cymbidium Dontoglossum Keep these varieties evenly moist during active growth, but let them dry out between waterings when they are not:
Cattleya Oncidium Brassia Dendrobium Keep these varieties almost dry between waterings:
Phalaenopsis Vanda Ascocenda Take care to avoid wetting the leaves when you water your orchids.
If they do get wet, gently dry them with a tissue or cotton swab. , Remove the inner pot from the decorative one, place in the sink or in the bathtub.
Add orchid food to a watering can or container, and completely water the base.
Allow the water to completely drain before replacing it into the decorative pottery planter.
Never allow it to sit in water, as it will kill the plant.
Note:
Epiphytic (branch-growing) orchids are not planted in earth like the terrestrial orchid varieties, but in the shell of a coconut, bark or cork.
Or, they can be grown in slatted baskets or on rafts of wood.
Their roots grow from the top, and not the bottom as usually found in terrestrial plants. , In general, once a month is recommended for most fertilizers.
Look for fertilizers that contain nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P) and potassium (K), plus trace elements like iron (Fe).
Use fertilizer with a higher nitrogen percentage when new shoots are coming out, and fertilizer with more phosphorous and potassium later in the season.
Do not overfeed orchids –– this can damage them.
If you're growing your orchid on bark, use a fertilizer that's significantly higher in nitrogen (in a ratio of 30(N)-10(P)-10(K)).
The bacteria in the decomposing bark will consume a lot of nitrogen.
Water your orchid thoroughly before feeding. , Many orchids are epiphytic (tree- or branch-growing) and require very different growing media than terrestrial orchids; indeed, orchids are commonly killed by being planted in soil when they're not a soil type orchid.
Epiphytes have thick, fleshy roots used to attach themselves to trees or bark and to absorb water and nutrients; others have aerial roots that will grow unattached.
Epiphyte orchids grow best in soilless mixtures or attached to pieces of bark or cork.
Epiphytic orchids require a growing media with extremely good aeration and drainage. , Common growing media includes fir bark, coconut husks, sphagnum moss, tree fern fibers, perlite, or a mixture of any of those.
However, the growing medium will depend on the orchid type––terrestrial orchids should have a medium formed mainly of loam with equal parts of such substances as sphagnum moss, damp peat or sharp sand.
Epiphytic orchids should have a growing substance that consists of equal parts of sphagnum moss, finely ground bark, vermiculite and moist peat.
It's easiest to buy readily mixed media suitable for the orchid type, and always know the specific needs of the variety of orchid you're growing, as these can vary quite a bit.
Commercially prepared orchid potting mixes are available or a mixture can be prepared containing chopped tree fern fiber, volcanic stone, charcoal, a little peat, fir bark or combinations of these. , You will need to repot on occasion, both to refresh the media, and to account for growth.
Spring is the usual time for repotting orchids.
Here are some things to consider:
Orchids planted in bark should be repotted every 18 to 24 months, in general.
Select the pot size based on the size of the root mass.
Orchids tend to prefer smaller pots.
With a pot that's significantly larger, the orchid will expend most of its energy rooting, and show no real new growth or foliage for months, so keep the containers small.
All orchids prefer being somewhat root-bound with their roots protruding from the top of the media (or aerial roots should simply hang free).
However, as plants produce more new canes or spikes, they can eventually outgrow their pot.
The pot will affect how you water.
An orchid potted in a porous pot such as clay (good for orchids) will need more frequent watering than an orchid in a plastic container.
Always use a pot with a drainage hole.
Sitting in water will rot the roots and the orchid will become mulch.
In larger pots, media in the center may take much longer to dry out––a condition that will harm your orchid.
To alleviate this, use broken clay pots in the bottom of the container to increase drainage.
If using a clay container, enlarge the drainage hole or make additional holes on the sides (near the bottom) of the pot. , Carefully replant your plant into a slightly larger pot or suitable container, using the suitable porous media suggested above.
Always ensure good drainage.
For a terrestrial orchid:
Remove the plant from the original pot.
Carefully tease off the old medium.
Place the plant into the clean pot, sprinkle in fresh medium around the roots.
Firm into place using a dibble or small stick.
Leave a small space between the compost and rim to allow watering space.
About 12mm (1/2") space is adequate.
For an epiphytic orchid:
Remove the loose, old medium.
Cut away dead roots and discard them.
Hold the orchid upside down and pack new medium around the roots to create a firm ball.
Turn the orchid right side up and place back into the chosen container.
A repotted epiphytic orchid should not be watered for about one week after, as this allows the roots to re-establish.
Water sparingly after this, to ensure the new roots are not damaged. , This is especially important from late spring through summer. , Peak blooming time starts from late winter, primarily February and March in the northern hemisphere.
Blooms normally last from four to twelve weeks.
When the blooms fade, cut off the spike 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) (12mm) above where it projects from the foliage.
Also trim off any dead leaves and tissue, including old flower stems, old leaves, anything rotting, dead roots, etc.
In the event of fungal rot or disease, cut a little past the infected tissue to help stop the progression of the infection. , If you cut part of an orchid leaf, the rest of the leaf may die, and cutting into a live pseudobulb will severely damage your orchid. , This will help prevent the spread of diseases from plant to plant.
It's recommended that you soak the tools in bleach between uses, or use a disposable razor blade. , This will be in the form of a new cane growing from the base of the old ones.
Under correct conditions, the new cane can be larger than the mother cane before it is ready to bloom again.
Cool nighttime temperatures help to initiate blooms.
With proper care in accordance with the variety's particular needs, the orchid plant should grow and bloom annually. , 65–85ºF (18–30ºC) is best.
For brief periods, they can withstand temperatures ranging from 60–100ºF (16–37ºC) but they dislike sudden temperature changes.
Cold temperatures will cause the leaves to turn yellow and eventually drop off.
If this happens, remove the yellow foliage and continue caring for the plant normally. , Having good air circulation can make all the difference for the health of your orchid.
This will help your orchid heal if you do experience a fungal or pest infestation that must be treated.
Air circulation is also a big part of the prevention of these types of infestations by keeping the leaves and flowers dry.
In the summer, open windows so that the natural airflow will circulate the air.
This promotes water evaporation and lots of fresh carbon dioxide.
A gentle breeze will also help orchids handle bright sunlight without scorching the leaves.
In the winter (or in the summer, on still days), use an oscillating fan to gently stir the air.
Move it around occasionally so that one spot isn't being over-blown. ,
About the Author
Frances Chavez
Writer and educator with a focus on practical lifestyle knowledge.
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