How to Grow Gaura
Sow seeds indoors., Fill starter trays with potting soil., Press the seeds into the soil., Keep the seeds moist and warm., Transplant in the spring., Choose a sunny spot., Provide plenty of drainage., Dig a hole twice as wide as the container...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Sow seeds indoors.
Plan on starting the seeds indoors five to nine weeks before the date you intend to transfer the seedlings to your outdoor garden.For annual varieties, sow the seeds five to six weeks before the anticipated last frost.
For perennial varieties, sow the seeds eight to nine weeks before the anticipated last frost.
Make sure that the spot you choose indoors can maintain a temperature between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit (21 and 24 degrees Celsius). -
Step 2: Fill starter trays with potting soil.
Fill each compartment of a plastic starter tray to the top with sterile potting soil.
Consider using specially blended "seed starting" soil for even better results. , Use your fingers to gently press one seed into each compartment of soil.
The seeds should be barely covered with only a loose layer of soil.
Do not plant the seeds too deep.
The soil covering the seeds should be no deeper than the thickness of the seed itself., Place the seed tray in a warm, sunny location and water as often as needed to keep the surface of the soil moist.
The soil must remain moist but it should not be drenched.
Avoid letting puddles form on the surface of the soil.
Once the seeds germinate, you can cut back on the watering schedule.
Seedlings only need enough water to keep the soil moist at a depth between 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm). , Prepare to transplant gaura seedlings to an outdoor location after the threat of frost has passed in the spring.
If you choose to purchase an established gaura seedling or plant from a garden nursery instead of growing one from seed, the same transplanting guidelines still apply.
Note that many perennial varieties of gaura can be planted after the threat of frost passes in the spring or at the very beginning of autumn, before frost becomes an issue.
Annual varieties must be planted in the spring, however. , Gaura does best when planted in areas receiving full sun, but it can also tolerate spots that receive partial sun and light shade. , You must choose a spot with well-draining soil.
If your garden is filled with heavy soil, you must amend it before transplanting the gaura seedlings.Gaura shrubs develop a long taproot, so you will need to amend the soil to a depth between 1 and 2 feet (30.5 and 61 cm).
Spread 6 inches (15.24 cm) of light organic matter—peat moss, compost, or sand—over the top of the planting area.
Use a shovel to dig the additive down into the soil to the appropriate depth.
Make sure that the soil and organic material are evenly mixed.
The soil should look notably looser when finished.
Also note that the soil does not need to be especially nutrient-dense, but it should be fairly neutral with a pH between
5.5 and
7.2. , Use a shovel or a trowel to dig a planting hole for the seedling.
The planting hole for each seedling should be twice as wide as the seedling's current container.
The depth of the planting hole should only be about as deep as the current container, though.
Avoid planting seedlings too deep.
The top of the root mass should be just beneath the surface of the soil. , Before you remove the seedling from its current container, give the soil a thorough watering.
Watering the soil makes it more compact and easier to move. , Carefully remove the seedling from its container and center it in the planting hole.
Hold the plant securely at the base of the main stem, just above the surface of the soil and the root mass.
Slowly invert the container until it is tipped diagonally downward.
Squeeze the sides of the container with your other hand or tap on the container with the handle of your trowel or shovel.
This should loosen the plant and free it from its container.
Grab the bottom or side of the removed mass.
Carefully place the plant right-side up in the planting hole.
Continue to hold it steady above the root mass with one hand. , Use your free hand to fill the rest of the planting hole with soil.
Once the plant is stable, let go of it and use both hands to gently pat the soil down.
The soil around the plant should be fairly loose but still packed well enough to hold the plant in place.
Give the entire planting site a thorough watering to help settle the soil. , Gaura does well when planted in nearby clusters or planted around other perennial shrubs.
Small varieties should be spaced 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) apart.
Large varieties should be spaced 20 to 36 inches (50 to 90 cm) apart.
Planting the gaura close together can prevent the roots and stems from becoming too leggy. , Gaura are fairly drought-resistant, but you may still need to water them during periods of severe drought since the plant thrives best in moderately moist soil.
You should keep the plant regularly watered during the first growing season.
Make sure that it receives a minimum of 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly during this time.
Thorough watering during the first season will help the plant establish itself more effectively.
From the second season on, you don't need to be quite as strict about your watering schedule.
Only worry about watering the plant when you have gone more than a week without any rain or when the leaves of the gaura shrub seem to be weakening. , If desired, you can apply an all-purpose general plant fertilizer to the soil at the beginning of spring, before new growth begins.
Look for a fertilizer that contains equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
Follow the label instructions to determine the best amount and application method.
Note that fertilizer can give the gaura a helpful boost, but these plants are usually hardy enough on their own and may thrive well enough even without the addition of fertilizer. , Pluck the flowers as they wilt and die or cut away any spent flower spikes after the petals have dropped naturally.
Doing so can prolong the plant's blooming period. , If you live in an area that regularly receives frost over the winter, you should spread 2 inches (5 cm) of wood chip mulch around the base of the plant and over the surrounding soil before the first frost strikes in autumn or winter.
The mulch provides insulation and protects the root of the plant from reaching fatally low temperatures.
Gaura plants will usually survive if the above-ground portion freezes, but they can weaken and die easily if the roots freeze. , Starting in the second year of growth, you should cut the gaura plant back by half its size.If the plant has suffered damage from a winter frost, you can cut it back even more severely until it is only 8 to 10 inches (20 to 30 cm) tall.
The plant grows back quickly and should fully establish itself by the middle of the growing season.
Cutting the plant back will encourage the shrub to become bushy and full.
If you do not cut the plant back, it can grow tall and wiry.
Cut the plant back in mid to late spring, preferably after the threat of frost has passed for the season.
Cutting the plant back too early can weaken it, and cutting it back any later can delay the blooming period. , Gaura rarely has any problems with insects or diseases, but there are a few diseases that have been known to strike the plant down.
Root rot is the most common and occurs when gaura is grown in heavy soils with poor drainage.Rust, cercospora leaf spot, septoria leaf spot, downy mildew, and powdery mildew are the next most common diseases.
If any of these form on your plant, treat the plant with an appropriate fungicide. , If you want to fill your garden with more gaura, the easiest way is to let the shrub do the work through the process of self-seeding or self-sowingLeave a few spent flower spikes on the plant instead of plucking them off.
These flower spikes should produce seed, and the seed should spread without any interference on your part. , If the gaura shrub gets too large, you can dig out and divide the root into separate clusters.
The clusters you remove can be used to propagate other gaura shrubs.
Do this in the spring for best results.
Treat divided gaura clusters like seedlings when you transplant them.
To divide the overgrown plant:
Thoroughly water the plant the day before you plan to divide it.
Dig out the taproot, keeping as much of it intact and undamaged as possible.
If you cannot untangle the roots with your fingers, use a sterile knife to divide the joined rhizomes.
Separate the plant so that each cluster has three to five healthy shoots coming from it.
Replant the established gaura and its divided clusters as soon as possible. -
Step 3: Press the seeds into the soil.
-
Step 4: Keep the seeds moist and warm.
-
Step 5: Transplant in the spring.
-
Step 6: Choose a sunny spot.
-
Step 7: Provide plenty of drainage.
-
Step 8: Dig a hole twice as wide as the container.
-
Step 9: Water the seedling well.
-
Step 10: Transfer the seedling from the container to the planting hole.
-
Step 11: Pack the soil around it.
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Step 12: Plant separate gaura seedlings close together.
-
Step 13: Water during dry periods.
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Step 14: Fertilize each spring.
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Step 15: Deadhead the flowers.
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Step 16: Apply mulch in the fall or winter.
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Step 17: Cut the plant back each year.
-
Step 18: Watch out for the occasional disease.
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Step 19: Let the plant self-sow.
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Step 20: Divide overgrown gaura.
Detailed Guide
Plan on starting the seeds indoors five to nine weeks before the date you intend to transfer the seedlings to your outdoor garden.For annual varieties, sow the seeds five to six weeks before the anticipated last frost.
For perennial varieties, sow the seeds eight to nine weeks before the anticipated last frost.
Make sure that the spot you choose indoors can maintain a temperature between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit (21 and 24 degrees Celsius).
Fill each compartment of a plastic starter tray to the top with sterile potting soil.
Consider using specially blended "seed starting" soil for even better results. , Use your fingers to gently press one seed into each compartment of soil.
The seeds should be barely covered with only a loose layer of soil.
Do not plant the seeds too deep.
The soil covering the seeds should be no deeper than the thickness of the seed itself., Place the seed tray in a warm, sunny location and water as often as needed to keep the surface of the soil moist.
The soil must remain moist but it should not be drenched.
Avoid letting puddles form on the surface of the soil.
Once the seeds germinate, you can cut back on the watering schedule.
Seedlings only need enough water to keep the soil moist at a depth between 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm). , Prepare to transplant gaura seedlings to an outdoor location after the threat of frost has passed in the spring.
If you choose to purchase an established gaura seedling or plant from a garden nursery instead of growing one from seed, the same transplanting guidelines still apply.
Note that many perennial varieties of gaura can be planted after the threat of frost passes in the spring or at the very beginning of autumn, before frost becomes an issue.
Annual varieties must be planted in the spring, however. , Gaura does best when planted in areas receiving full sun, but it can also tolerate spots that receive partial sun and light shade. , You must choose a spot with well-draining soil.
If your garden is filled with heavy soil, you must amend it before transplanting the gaura seedlings.Gaura shrubs develop a long taproot, so you will need to amend the soil to a depth between 1 and 2 feet (30.5 and 61 cm).
Spread 6 inches (15.24 cm) of light organic matter—peat moss, compost, or sand—over the top of the planting area.
Use a shovel to dig the additive down into the soil to the appropriate depth.
Make sure that the soil and organic material are evenly mixed.
The soil should look notably looser when finished.
Also note that the soil does not need to be especially nutrient-dense, but it should be fairly neutral with a pH between
5.5 and
7.2. , Use a shovel or a trowel to dig a planting hole for the seedling.
The planting hole for each seedling should be twice as wide as the seedling's current container.
The depth of the planting hole should only be about as deep as the current container, though.
Avoid planting seedlings too deep.
The top of the root mass should be just beneath the surface of the soil. , Before you remove the seedling from its current container, give the soil a thorough watering.
Watering the soil makes it more compact and easier to move. , Carefully remove the seedling from its container and center it in the planting hole.
Hold the plant securely at the base of the main stem, just above the surface of the soil and the root mass.
Slowly invert the container until it is tipped diagonally downward.
Squeeze the sides of the container with your other hand or tap on the container with the handle of your trowel or shovel.
This should loosen the plant and free it from its container.
Grab the bottom or side of the removed mass.
Carefully place the plant right-side up in the planting hole.
Continue to hold it steady above the root mass with one hand. , Use your free hand to fill the rest of the planting hole with soil.
Once the plant is stable, let go of it and use both hands to gently pat the soil down.
The soil around the plant should be fairly loose but still packed well enough to hold the plant in place.
Give the entire planting site a thorough watering to help settle the soil. , Gaura does well when planted in nearby clusters or planted around other perennial shrubs.
Small varieties should be spaced 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) apart.
Large varieties should be spaced 20 to 36 inches (50 to 90 cm) apart.
Planting the gaura close together can prevent the roots and stems from becoming too leggy. , Gaura are fairly drought-resistant, but you may still need to water them during periods of severe drought since the plant thrives best in moderately moist soil.
You should keep the plant regularly watered during the first growing season.
Make sure that it receives a minimum of 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly during this time.
Thorough watering during the first season will help the plant establish itself more effectively.
From the second season on, you don't need to be quite as strict about your watering schedule.
Only worry about watering the plant when you have gone more than a week without any rain or when the leaves of the gaura shrub seem to be weakening. , If desired, you can apply an all-purpose general plant fertilizer to the soil at the beginning of spring, before new growth begins.
Look for a fertilizer that contains equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
Follow the label instructions to determine the best amount and application method.
Note that fertilizer can give the gaura a helpful boost, but these plants are usually hardy enough on their own and may thrive well enough even without the addition of fertilizer. , Pluck the flowers as they wilt and die or cut away any spent flower spikes after the petals have dropped naturally.
Doing so can prolong the plant's blooming period. , If you live in an area that regularly receives frost over the winter, you should spread 2 inches (5 cm) of wood chip mulch around the base of the plant and over the surrounding soil before the first frost strikes in autumn or winter.
The mulch provides insulation and protects the root of the plant from reaching fatally low temperatures.
Gaura plants will usually survive if the above-ground portion freezes, but they can weaken and die easily if the roots freeze. , Starting in the second year of growth, you should cut the gaura plant back by half its size.If the plant has suffered damage from a winter frost, you can cut it back even more severely until it is only 8 to 10 inches (20 to 30 cm) tall.
The plant grows back quickly and should fully establish itself by the middle of the growing season.
Cutting the plant back will encourage the shrub to become bushy and full.
If you do not cut the plant back, it can grow tall and wiry.
Cut the plant back in mid to late spring, preferably after the threat of frost has passed for the season.
Cutting the plant back too early can weaken it, and cutting it back any later can delay the blooming period. , Gaura rarely has any problems with insects or diseases, but there are a few diseases that have been known to strike the plant down.
Root rot is the most common and occurs when gaura is grown in heavy soils with poor drainage.Rust, cercospora leaf spot, septoria leaf spot, downy mildew, and powdery mildew are the next most common diseases.
If any of these form on your plant, treat the plant with an appropriate fungicide. , If you want to fill your garden with more gaura, the easiest way is to let the shrub do the work through the process of self-seeding or self-sowingLeave a few spent flower spikes on the plant instead of plucking them off.
These flower spikes should produce seed, and the seed should spread without any interference on your part. , If the gaura shrub gets too large, you can dig out and divide the root into separate clusters.
The clusters you remove can be used to propagate other gaura shrubs.
Do this in the spring for best results.
Treat divided gaura clusters like seedlings when you transplant them.
To divide the overgrown plant:
Thoroughly water the plant the day before you plan to divide it.
Dig out the taproot, keeping as much of it intact and undamaged as possible.
If you cannot untangle the roots with your fingers, use a sterile knife to divide the joined rhizomes.
Separate the plant so that each cluster has three to five healthy shoots coming from it.
Replant the established gaura and its divided clusters as soon as possible.
About the Author
Edward Hart
Experienced content creator specializing in lifestyle guides and tutorials.
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