How to Iron on a Patch
Figure out what type of patch you have., Examine the fabric of your clothing or accessory., Think about design and placement., Lay the base item on a flat, heat-resistant surface., Place the patch in the position you chose., Heat up an iron., Place...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Figure out what type of patch you have.
Some patches come with glue on the back, and others simply have a cloth backing.
Take a close look at your patch and decide whether you may need additional materials.
Decorative embroidered fabric patches are usually thick, stiff, and have what looks like plastic glue on one side.
These can be used to cover ripped or discolored fabric.
Transfer paper patches are prints on one side of special paper, with a non-glossy paper side.
These can't hold ripped fabric together and usually the fabric underneath will show through if it's not applied to something white.
Patches that have a simple cloth backing can be attached using fusible web.
Patches that are meant to cover up holes or stains and are designed to blend in with fabric often come with a paper backing that is pulled off before the patch is applied.
Consider custom designing your own patch if you can't find one you like. -
Step 2: Examine the fabric of your clothing or accessory.
Fabrics like denim and cotton provide the best base for iron-on patches.
As a general rule the fabric you choose should be at least as heavy as the patch.
Look at the fabric care label to see whether it can be ironed (if not, there will be a crossed-out icon of an iron).
If there's no label, try to figure out what material it's made of.
Be very careful with polyester fabrics, since applying the high heat necessary for ironing on patches can burn the fabric or cause it to get discolored.
Silk and other delicate fabrics are not good candidates for patches. , Before you heat up the iron, lay out your jacket, sash or backpack and decide where exactly you want the patch to be placed.
If this is the only patch you intend to iron on this piece, put it in a tastefully prominent position.
Make the placement look intentional.
If you're planning on ironing on more patches, like you would for a girl scout's sash or any other type of collection, plan ahead to make sure there will be room for additional patches.
If you are using a printable paper patch, remember that letters and other asymmetrical items will appear reversed. , An ironing board is useful, but if you don't have one, you may also lay your item across a doubled-up bath towel on a sturdy table.
To ensure the item will provide a good surface for the patch, iron it first.
If it's a backpack or another item that's difficult to iron, do your best to arrange it so that the part of the fabric that will be receiving the patch is flat against a hard surface. , The adhesive side should be flat against the base fabric.
Make sure that the patch isn't crooked.
On embroidered patches, the adhesive side is the underside.
On transfer paper patches, the adhesive side is the side where the image is printed.
Place the image face down on the fabric.
The paper backing will be peeled once the patch is ironed on.
If you're using a fusible webbing, the fusible web backing should be against the fabric.
If you're using a patch meant to blend in with fabric, you may need to apply it to the reverse side of the article of clothing.
Follow the instructions that came with the packaging. , Turn it to the hottest setting your fabric can tolerate.
Make sure the "steam" option is turned off, and that your iron isn't full of water. , Take care not to disturb the position of the patch.
The towel will protect the patch itself and the surrounding fabric. , Hold the iron there for about 15 seconds.
Apply as much pressure as you can by pressing down firmly. , Lift the towel and check to see whether the patch is fixed on securely by gently rubbing at the edge with a finger, trying to lift it.
If it lifts up a bit, replace the towel and press it with the iron again for 10 seconds.
If you're working with a paper transfer patch, wait until it is fully cool (leave it for 10 minutes), then carefully peel off the paper. , For a completely secure patch, use a sewing machine or a needle and thread to secure the patch to the fabric.
This greatly reduces the chances that the patch will fall off.
Choose a thread that matches the patch.
Don't attempt to sew around the edge of printable paper patches. , Iron-on patches are meant to be permanent, but they do become loosened over time.
Take care not to let the article get too dirty, since washing it may cause the patch to start coming off.
If you do need to wash the item, hand wash it using cold water.
Allow it to air dry. -
Step 3: Think about design and placement.
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Step 4: Lay the base item on a flat
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Step 5: heat-resistant surface.
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Step 6: Place the patch in the position you chose.
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Step 7: Heat up an iron.
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Step 8: Place a thin towel over the patch.
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Step 9: Position the heated iron over the patch and press down.
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Step 10: Remove the iron and allow the patch to to cool.
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Step 11: Consider sewing around the edges.
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Step 12: Don't wash the article more than necessary.
Detailed Guide
Some patches come with glue on the back, and others simply have a cloth backing.
Take a close look at your patch and decide whether you may need additional materials.
Decorative embroidered fabric patches are usually thick, stiff, and have what looks like plastic glue on one side.
These can be used to cover ripped or discolored fabric.
Transfer paper patches are prints on one side of special paper, with a non-glossy paper side.
These can't hold ripped fabric together and usually the fabric underneath will show through if it's not applied to something white.
Patches that have a simple cloth backing can be attached using fusible web.
Patches that are meant to cover up holes or stains and are designed to blend in with fabric often come with a paper backing that is pulled off before the patch is applied.
Consider custom designing your own patch if you can't find one you like.
Fabrics like denim and cotton provide the best base for iron-on patches.
As a general rule the fabric you choose should be at least as heavy as the patch.
Look at the fabric care label to see whether it can be ironed (if not, there will be a crossed-out icon of an iron).
If there's no label, try to figure out what material it's made of.
Be very careful with polyester fabrics, since applying the high heat necessary for ironing on patches can burn the fabric or cause it to get discolored.
Silk and other delicate fabrics are not good candidates for patches. , Before you heat up the iron, lay out your jacket, sash or backpack and decide where exactly you want the patch to be placed.
If this is the only patch you intend to iron on this piece, put it in a tastefully prominent position.
Make the placement look intentional.
If you're planning on ironing on more patches, like you would for a girl scout's sash or any other type of collection, plan ahead to make sure there will be room for additional patches.
If you are using a printable paper patch, remember that letters and other asymmetrical items will appear reversed. , An ironing board is useful, but if you don't have one, you may also lay your item across a doubled-up bath towel on a sturdy table.
To ensure the item will provide a good surface for the patch, iron it first.
If it's a backpack or another item that's difficult to iron, do your best to arrange it so that the part of the fabric that will be receiving the patch is flat against a hard surface. , The adhesive side should be flat against the base fabric.
Make sure that the patch isn't crooked.
On embroidered patches, the adhesive side is the underside.
On transfer paper patches, the adhesive side is the side where the image is printed.
Place the image face down on the fabric.
The paper backing will be peeled once the patch is ironed on.
If you're using a fusible webbing, the fusible web backing should be against the fabric.
If you're using a patch meant to blend in with fabric, you may need to apply it to the reverse side of the article of clothing.
Follow the instructions that came with the packaging. , Turn it to the hottest setting your fabric can tolerate.
Make sure the "steam" option is turned off, and that your iron isn't full of water. , Take care not to disturb the position of the patch.
The towel will protect the patch itself and the surrounding fabric. , Hold the iron there for about 15 seconds.
Apply as much pressure as you can by pressing down firmly. , Lift the towel and check to see whether the patch is fixed on securely by gently rubbing at the edge with a finger, trying to lift it.
If it lifts up a bit, replace the towel and press it with the iron again for 10 seconds.
If you're working with a paper transfer patch, wait until it is fully cool (leave it for 10 minutes), then carefully peel off the paper. , For a completely secure patch, use a sewing machine or a needle and thread to secure the patch to the fabric.
This greatly reduces the chances that the patch will fall off.
Choose a thread that matches the patch.
Don't attempt to sew around the edge of printable paper patches. , Iron-on patches are meant to be permanent, but they do become loosened over time.
Take care not to let the article get too dirty, since washing it may cause the patch to start coming off.
If you do need to wash the item, hand wash it using cold water.
Allow it to air dry.
About the Author
Nicholas Richardson
Committed to making DIY projects accessible and understandable for everyone.
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