How to Make Chainmail
Choose a weave that you like., Choose a design you like., Choose your material., Choose your tools., Wind the wire (if you are starting with wire) firmly around a metal rod., Cut the rings (if you started with wire)., Close four rings, using...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Choose a weave that you like.
This article describes one method of weaving: the European 4-in-1 weave, a common and widely used weave.
It gets its name from the fact that each non-edge ring has four other rings connected to it.
There are ways to vary the basic European 4-in-1 weave that this article describes, such as the European 4-in-1 expanding (FFF) or make the European 6-in-1 (where you'll use six rings in one, rather than the four in one described by this article). -
Step 2: Choose a design you like.
If you are just beginning, start with something fairly small and simple until you get the hang of it.
A full chainmail shirt has thousands of rings in it and can weigh more than 30 pounds.
Instead, try a bracelet, belt, key chain, or other smaller, simpler design.
Try chainmail jewelry for an unusual and elegant piece that you can wear for any occasion.
When choosing wire for jewelry purposes, smaller wire will be better accepted by the general public. 18 gauge (wire thickness) down to 20 or 22 gauge is common. 24 gauge and smaller wire is starting to get into rings where you may need magnification to work them well. 16 gauge and up tends to produce thicker, more bulky pieces that have limited appeal. , Decide whether you will make your own rings from wire or purchase rings.
Rings are available in a variety of combinations of inside diameters (distance between the inside edges of the ring--abbreviated to ID) and gauges (wire thickness, or wire diameter ).
The relationship between these two numbers, using the formula ID/WD, is the aspect ratio (abbreviated AR).
Bigger rings will cover an area with fewer rings and less weight, but the texture will be coarser, regardless of AR.
Rings with a larger AR will not be as strong as smaller AR rings of the same material, regardless of the material.
Wire of a thicker gauge will be more durable, but also weigh more and be harder to work with.
Materials for rings are not limited to plain iron or steel.
You can also get rings in galvanized steel, stainless steel, aluminum, titanium, inconel, niobium, silver, gold, and rubber.
You can also get rings in a variety of colors and create many different inlays with them.
An easy source of wire to get started is coat hangers.
They are fairly easy to bend.
The downside is that you have to cut your own rings and the result is not very strong.
Another easy (but not as easy) source for wire is to go to a hardware store and go into the Fencing section and buy a spool of electric fence wire; this type of wire is typically available very inexpensively. , You'll need pliers for the rings, as well as a metal rod to wind the wire for the rings around.
Match your pliers to your material.
The pliers you would use on heavy gauge stainless steel will not be the same pliers you use on fine gauge silver.
The teeth (the serrations on the jaws) on many standard pliers may damage the metal finish of your rings, especially on smaller wire and/or softer materials.
For delicate (relatively speaking) ring materials, look for toothless pliers, or even tweezers if you are working with very small wire.
You can also look around for plier jaw covers.
A cheap alternative to plier jaw covers is plastic tubing of the correct gauge; slip the tubing over the ends of your pliers.
The pliers must be strong enough to bend the metal you are using and fine enough to handle the ring size you choose.
Types of metal rods include Phillips screwdrivers, or a steel rod purchased from a hardware store.
Often you can find some type of metal rod lying about your house. , Wooden dowels and pencils are not recommended as the forces applied while coiling your wire will compress the wood and give you rings of unequal dimensions.
You may need to control one or both ends with pliers.
Aim for even, consistent loops and try to avoid putting tight kinks in the wire.
If the wire came in a coil or spool, wind with the curvature that the wire already has.
Also try to keep the "spring" as tight together as possible.
The more spaced the rings are, the longer the rings actually become.
For making large quantities, make a small hole in the rod to fasten the wire and use a drill to rotate the rod.
Heavy gloves are recommended with this method. , It's especially important to wear eye protection for this step, as the rings can go flying.
Aim for full, 360º rings, evenly cut.
Cutting on a slight diagonal will help to achieve a tight closure with no gap.
If you want a flatter, cleaner cut, you can put the coil in a vice (preferably with the rod still inside) and cut it with a hacksaw.
Doing this eliminates the sharp points in the ends of the ring that can get caught on clothes and skin. , Thread all four onto a fifth ring (shown here in red) and close the fifth ring.
Fully close all rings to give the piece an even, finished appearance and to prevent it from catching hair.
For opening and closing the rings, twist the ends of the ring away from each other.
Do not pull the ends straight away from each other, as you will not get the ring to be round again.
Depending on your material, you may have to close the ring past the final position you want, then bring it back. , This looks awkward right now because the rest of the pattern isn't around it to even things out. , Link both into another ring (also red), but do not close the red ring yet. , Arrange the two bottom-most rings so that they are in the pattern. ,,, Pass the blue ring through the top two gold rings from the first row.
Be sure that it ends up oriented the same as the red ring adjacent to it. ,,,, When the piece is as large as you want, continue to the next step., You'll need to repeat Part Two of the article to make the back. -
Step 3: Choose your material.
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Step 4: Choose your tools.
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Step 5: Wind the wire (if you are starting with wire) firmly around a metal rod.
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Step 6: Cut the rings (if you started with wire).
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Step 7: Close four rings
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Step 8: using pliers.
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Step 9: Arrange the five rings as shown
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Step 10: with two over and two under.
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Step 11: Close two more rings.
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Step 12: Loop the red ring through both of the bottom two rings
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Step 13: as shown
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Step 14: from bottom to top.
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Step 15: Repeat the last two steps until you have a strip that is the length you want.
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Step 16: Place two closed rings on a third ring (shown here in blue).
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Step 17: Begin building the next row.
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Step 18: Place one closed ring on another ring (blue).
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Step 19: Add it to the pattern
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Step 20: linking this blue ring through three other rings.
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Step 21: Build the rest of the row
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Step 22: by repeating the last few steps.
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Step 23: Repeat Part Two of the article to add each new row.
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Step 24: Make a second piece.
Detailed Guide
This article describes one method of weaving: the European 4-in-1 weave, a common and widely used weave.
It gets its name from the fact that each non-edge ring has four other rings connected to it.
There are ways to vary the basic European 4-in-1 weave that this article describes, such as the European 4-in-1 expanding (FFF) or make the European 6-in-1 (where you'll use six rings in one, rather than the four in one described by this article).
If you are just beginning, start with something fairly small and simple until you get the hang of it.
A full chainmail shirt has thousands of rings in it and can weigh more than 30 pounds.
Instead, try a bracelet, belt, key chain, or other smaller, simpler design.
Try chainmail jewelry for an unusual and elegant piece that you can wear for any occasion.
When choosing wire for jewelry purposes, smaller wire will be better accepted by the general public. 18 gauge (wire thickness) down to 20 or 22 gauge is common. 24 gauge and smaller wire is starting to get into rings where you may need magnification to work them well. 16 gauge and up tends to produce thicker, more bulky pieces that have limited appeal. , Decide whether you will make your own rings from wire or purchase rings.
Rings are available in a variety of combinations of inside diameters (distance between the inside edges of the ring--abbreviated to ID) and gauges (wire thickness, or wire diameter ).
The relationship between these two numbers, using the formula ID/WD, is the aspect ratio (abbreviated AR).
Bigger rings will cover an area with fewer rings and less weight, but the texture will be coarser, regardless of AR.
Rings with a larger AR will not be as strong as smaller AR rings of the same material, regardless of the material.
Wire of a thicker gauge will be more durable, but also weigh more and be harder to work with.
Materials for rings are not limited to plain iron or steel.
You can also get rings in galvanized steel, stainless steel, aluminum, titanium, inconel, niobium, silver, gold, and rubber.
You can also get rings in a variety of colors and create many different inlays with them.
An easy source of wire to get started is coat hangers.
They are fairly easy to bend.
The downside is that you have to cut your own rings and the result is not very strong.
Another easy (but not as easy) source for wire is to go to a hardware store and go into the Fencing section and buy a spool of electric fence wire; this type of wire is typically available very inexpensively. , You'll need pliers for the rings, as well as a metal rod to wind the wire for the rings around.
Match your pliers to your material.
The pliers you would use on heavy gauge stainless steel will not be the same pliers you use on fine gauge silver.
The teeth (the serrations on the jaws) on many standard pliers may damage the metal finish of your rings, especially on smaller wire and/or softer materials.
For delicate (relatively speaking) ring materials, look for toothless pliers, or even tweezers if you are working with very small wire.
You can also look around for plier jaw covers.
A cheap alternative to plier jaw covers is plastic tubing of the correct gauge; slip the tubing over the ends of your pliers.
The pliers must be strong enough to bend the metal you are using and fine enough to handle the ring size you choose.
Types of metal rods include Phillips screwdrivers, or a steel rod purchased from a hardware store.
Often you can find some type of metal rod lying about your house. , Wooden dowels and pencils are not recommended as the forces applied while coiling your wire will compress the wood and give you rings of unequal dimensions.
You may need to control one or both ends with pliers.
Aim for even, consistent loops and try to avoid putting tight kinks in the wire.
If the wire came in a coil or spool, wind with the curvature that the wire already has.
Also try to keep the "spring" as tight together as possible.
The more spaced the rings are, the longer the rings actually become.
For making large quantities, make a small hole in the rod to fasten the wire and use a drill to rotate the rod.
Heavy gloves are recommended with this method. , It's especially important to wear eye protection for this step, as the rings can go flying.
Aim for full, 360º rings, evenly cut.
Cutting on a slight diagonal will help to achieve a tight closure with no gap.
If you want a flatter, cleaner cut, you can put the coil in a vice (preferably with the rod still inside) and cut it with a hacksaw.
Doing this eliminates the sharp points in the ends of the ring that can get caught on clothes and skin. , Thread all four onto a fifth ring (shown here in red) and close the fifth ring.
Fully close all rings to give the piece an even, finished appearance and to prevent it from catching hair.
For opening and closing the rings, twist the ends of the ring away from each other.
Do not pull the ends straight away from each other, as you will not get the ring to be round again.
Depending on your material, you may have to close the ring past the final position you want, then bring it back. , This looks awkward right now because the rest of the pattern isn't around it to even things out. , Link both into another ring (also red), but do not close the red ring yet. , Arrange the two bottom-most rings so that they are in the pattern. ,,, Pass the blue ring through the top two gold rings from the first row.
Be sure that it ends up oriented the same as the red ring adjacent to it. ,,,, When the piece is as large as you want, continue to the next step., You'll need to repeat Part Two of the article to make the back.
About the Author
Carolyn Ellis
Creates helpful guides on organization to inspire and educate readers.
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