How to Make Tile Floors from Scrap Materials

Find a source for scrap, broken or discontinued tile and stone., Put the pieces together., Set the pieces in place., Wait.

4 Steps 2 min read Medium

Step-by-Step Guide

  1. Step 1: Find a source for scrap

    All the marble and granite shown in the picture in the introduction was salvaged from the trash pile at a stone distributor/fabricator.

    Tile distributors also sell returns and discontinued styles at a discount.

    Collect pieces that are all roughly the same thickness.

    Don't be concerned about using colors and patterns that don't match
    - the variety is what makes the overall floor appealing.
  2. Step 2: broken or discontinued tile and stone.

    If you have the inclination and mental discipline to work out a pattern first, draw it on the floor and then fit the stone to it.

    However, you can also just pick a corner and start laying out pieces, expanding on patterns suggested by shapes and colors in the materials, fitting them together as you would a jigsaw puzzle.

    Cut pieces as needed with a wet-cutting tile saw, fitting the stone together so the grout lines are 1/8" to1/2" wide.

    If you're making a completely abstract pattern, lay out the entire floor without mortar first
    - cutting and fitting can be very time-consuming. , Once you're satisfied with the floor, mix about 2 gallons worth of white tile-setting mortar (the kind used for marble), carefully move several square feet of the pattern to the side, spread mortar in that area with a wide-notch trowel (check the mortar bag for recommended trowel size) and then set the stone back in place permanently.

    Check a few pieces to make sure they're roughly 3/4th covered with mortar.

    If they're not, spread additional mortar and/or spread some mortar on the back of the piece.

    Use metal washers or stone chips to shim up low pieces
    - all the pieces should be close to the same level so the floor is smooth and you don't stub your toe when walking.

    Dull any sharp, protruding edges with a tile saw or grinding stones.

    Wipe excess mortar off the tile and out of the grout lines within 20 minutes. , After the entire floor is done, stay off it for 24 hours.

    Then apply a sealer or grout release (very important with rough stone tiles), let it dry, and finally grout using sanded grout.

    Work in 5
    - 10 s.f. sections, wiping grout from the tile surface within 15-20 minutes of spreading it.

    Scrub off the fine haze after the grout has hardened (8 hrs.), then apply a final coat of sealer after a few days (check sealer instructions).
  3. Step 3: Put the pieces together.

  4. Step 4: Set the pieces in place.

Detailed Guide

All the marble and granite shown in the picture in the introduction was salvaged from the trash pile at a stone distributor/fabricator.

Tile distributors also sell returns and discontinued styles at a discount.

Collect pieces that are all roughly the same thickness.

Don't be concerned about using colors and patterns that don't match
- the variety is what makes the overall floor appealing.

If you have the inclination and mental discipline to work out a pattern first, draw it on the floor and then fit the stone to it.

However, you can also just pick a corner and start laying out pieces, expanding on patterns suggested by shapes and colors in the materials, fitting them together as you would a jigsaw puzzle.

Cut pieces as needed with a wet-cutting tile saw, fitting the stone together so the grout lines are 1/8" to1/2" wide.

If you're making a completely abstract pattern, lay out the entire floor without mortar first
- cutting and fitting can be very time-consuming. , Once you're satisfied with the floor, mix about 2 gallons worth of white tile-setting mortar (the kind used for marble), carefully move several square feet of the pattern to the side, spread mortar in that area with a wide-notch trowel (check the mortar bag for recommended trowel size) and then set the stone back in place permanently.

Check a few pieces to make sure they're roughly 3/4th covered with mortar.

If they're not, spread additional mortar and/or spread some mortar on the back of the piece.

Use metal washers or stone chips to shim up low pieces
- all the pieces should be close to the same level so the floor is smooth and you don't stub your toe when walking.

Dull any sharp, protruding edges with a tile saw or grinding stones.

Wipe excess mortar off the tile and out of the grout lines within 20 minutes. , After the entire floor is done, stay off it for 24 hours.

Then apply a sealer or grout release (very important with rough stone tiles), let it dry, and finally grout using sanded grout.

Work in 5
- 10 s.f. sections, wiping grout from the tile surface within 15-20 minutes of spreading it.

Scrub off the fine haze after the grout has hardened (8 hrs.), then apply a final coat of sealer after a few days (check sealer instructions).

About the Author

D

Douglas Morgan

Creates helpful guides on creative arts to inspire and educate readers.

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