How to Operate a Chainsaw
Read all safety precautions and instructions in the user's manual., Select a model you can operate comfortably, that is large enough for the application you are using it for., Look at the area where you are going to work, before fueling your saw...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Read all safety precautions and instructions in the user's manual.
If you have not bought or borrowed a saw already, think about renting one from a tool rental store, just to get an idea of the size and blade configuration you are comfortable using.
For a novice, a bar type blade is more practical than a bow blade, so this article will discuss the bar blade.
The bar needs to be at least one third longer than the diameter of the tree or log you are cutting.
Usually, the horsepower or displacement of the engine is relative to the length of your bar, and is matched at the factory.
A well-tuned engine and sharp blade will allow you to cut quickly, easily and accurately, resulting in safer conditions.
A small person doing a light trimming job may find an electric chainsaw is better suited for their task, but for purposes of brevity, this article will focus on gasoline saws. , It is critical to have room to do your job safely.
This means watching for overhead power lines and obstructions, nearby cars and buildings, and escape room from falling trees or limbs for the saw operator. , Each of these type cuts have considerations and cautions which need to be addressed.
Falling a tree on a power line will always be disastrous.
Falling on a friend or neighbor's car or house will at least lead to hard feelings.
Again, for brevity, it is not practical to describe all these situations in detail.
Felling:
This is the act of cutting down a tree.
Limbing:
This is removing limbs from the tree before or after it is felled.
Trimming: (when using a chain saw) This refers to cutting limbs back or taking off branches on a limb. (if you are not using a chain saw, this could be as simple as shaping a bush-for brevity, not discussed here) Bucking:
This is cutting the "log" or trunk of the tree in usable pieces, for instance, fireplace lengths. , If you are preparing to start the saw, you have already selected a saw that is suitable for your project and build. , Because chainsaws are two cycle engines, they do not have a lubricating oil supply, and they will burn up quickly if the correct fuel is not used. , Ensure that the chain is on properly, has the tension adjusted appropriately, and cannot rotate when the chain brake is engaged.
Check that the air filter is properly installed and that the faceplate and bar nuts are on firmly. , The caps may be labeled, and often the larger cap will be for fuel, and the smaller for bar lubricant.
Fill the bar lube tank, check both caps to ensure that they are tightly installed, and place the saw on a flat surface.
This is especially important for cranking very large saws, since the blade will commence turning as soon as the saw starts and revs up. , If your saw is equipped with a choke lever, place it in the choke position.
This causes the carburetor to suck fuel into the combustion chamber more quickly.
Engage the chain brake.
Switch the saw to "on"
this will either be a toggle, rocker, or plunger type switch, depending on model.
Pull the starter rope sharply, until the engine "fires".
If the engine fires but does not start, push the choke in half way and try again.
Usually in a well tuned saw, it will take no more than 4 or 5 pulls to get the saw running. , Hopefully, you have selected a practice piece of wood or chosen a limb or log in an easy place to cut.
Bring the blade in line with the cut you are going to make, disengage the chain brake, squeeze the throttle fully open, and lay the blade against the wood.
Do not force the blade, it will draw into the cut with just the weight of the blade, or moderate pressure.
Keep the saw running full throttle throughout the cut, easing the throttle off only as you are about to exit the cut on the other side of the log. , Have a sledge hammer and wedge, a spitting maul, or at least an axe and wood wedge in case the limb you are cutting wedges your bar and you cannot free it. , Often it is a good idea to drain out the fuel and oil before storing since these may leak out and are flammable materials.
The engine can be run one last time to empty the carburetor after you drain the fuel tank, this will keep the remaining fuel from gumming up the fuel system over long term storage. , A case is the best bet, but if you don't have one, buy a "bar cover" to protect both you and your saw. -
Step 2: Select a model you can operate comfortably
-
Step 3: that is large enough for the application you are using it for.
-
Step 4: Look at the area where you are going to work
-
Step 5: before fueling your saw.
-
Step 6: Recognize the four normal cuts that you may make with a chainsaw.
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Step 7: Look at your chainsaw.
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Step 8: Fill the gas tank with the correct fuel/oil mixture
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Step 9: which is typically one gallon of gasoline with 4 to 6 ounces of two cycle engine oil.
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Step 10: Do a safety check.
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Step 11: Note that there are two filler caps on your saw
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Step 12: near the throttle handle.
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Step 13: If your model has a primer bulb on the carburetor
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Step 14: pump the bulb 3 or 4 times.
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Step 15: When your saw is running at idle
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Step 16: the blade should not engage and turn.
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Step 17: Prepare for a binding situation.
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Step 18: When you have completed your cutting operation
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Step 19: allow the saw to cool down before storing.
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Step 20: Keep the chainsaw bar and chain covered when not in use.
Detailed Guide
If you have not bought or borrowed a saw already, think about renting one from a tool rental store, just to get an idea of the size and blade configuration you are comfortable using.
For a novice, a bar type blade is more practical than a bow blade, so this article will discuss the bar blade.
The bar needs to be at least one third longer than the diameter of the tree or log you are cutting.
Usually, the horsepower or displacement of the engine is relative to the length of your bar, and is matched at the factory.
A well-tuned engine and sharp blade will allow you to cut quickly, easily and accurately, resulting in safer conditions.
A small person doing a light trimming job may find an electric chainsaw is better suited for their task, but for purposes of brevity, this article will focus on gasoline saws. , It is critical to have room to do your job safely.
This means watching for overhead power lines and obstructions, nearby cars and buildings, and escape room from falling trees or limbs for the saw operator. , Each of these type cuts have considerations and cautions which need to be addressed.
Falling a tree on a power line will always be disastrous.
Falling on a friend or neighbor's car or house will at least lead to hard feelings.
Again, for brevity, it is not practical to describe all these situations in detail.
Felling:
This is the act of cutting down a tree.
Limbing:
This is removing limbs from the tree before or after it is felled.
Trimming: (when using a chain saw) This refers to cutting limbs back or taking off branches on a limb. (if you are not using a chain saw, this could be as simple as shaping a bush-for brevity, not discussed here) Bucking:
This is cutting the "log" or trunk of the tree in usable pieces, for instance, fireplace lengths. , If you are preparing to start the saw, you have already selected a saw that is suitable for your project and build. , Because chainsaws are two cycle engines, they do not have a lubricating oil supply, and they will burn up quickly if the correct fuel is not used. , Ensure that the chain is on properly, has the tension adjusted appropriately, and cannot rotate when the chain brake is engaged.
Check that the air filter is properly installed and that the faceplate and bar nuts are on firmly. , The caps may be labeled, and often the larger cap will be for fuel, and the smaller for bar lubricant.
Fill the bar lube tank, check both caps to ensure that they are tightly installed, and place the saw on a flat surface.
This is especially important for cranking very large saws, since the blade will commence turning as soon as the saw starts and revs up. , If your saw is equipped with a choke lever, place it in the choke position.
This causes the carburetor to suck fuel into the combustion chamber more quickly.
Engage the chain brake.
Switch the saw to "on"
this will either be a toggle, rocker, or plunger type switch, depending on model.
Pull the starter rope sharply, until the engine "fires".
If the engine fires but does not start, push the choke in half way and try again.
Usually in a well tuned saw, it will take no more than 4 or 5 pulls to get the saw running. , Hopefully, you have selected a practice piece of wood or chosen a limb or log in an easy place to cut.
Bring the blade in line with the cut you are going to make, disengage the chain brake, squeeze the throttle fully open, and lay the blade against the wood.
Do not force the blade, it will draw into the cut with just the weight of the blade, or moderate pressure.
Keep the saw running full throttle throughout the cut, easing the throttle off only as you are about to exit the cut on the other side of the log. , Have a sledge hammer and wedge, a spitting maul, or at least an axe and wood wedge in case the limb you are cutting wedges your bar and you cannot free it. , Often it is a good idea to drain out the fuel and oil before storing since these may leak out and are flammable materials.
The engine can be run one last time to empty the carburetor after you drain the fuel tank, this will keep the remaining fuel from gumming up the fuel system over long term storage. , A case is the best bet, but if you don't have one, buy a "bar cover" to protect both you and your saw.
About the Author
Justin Gonzalez
A passionate writer with expertise in creative arts topics. Loves sharing practical knowledge.
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