How to Make a Bicycle Lighter

Get the lightest frame you can buy when you get a new bike., Switch out your wheels for easy, immediate weight loss., Make sure you're using the proper tires., Switch to a double crank in your front gears., Pick up aerodynamic handlebars., Remove...

11 Steps 5 min read Advanced

Step-by-Step Guide

  1. Step 1: Get the lightest frame you can buy when you get a new bike.

    The frame is the base of the bike, and the most expensive part you can buy.

    Getting a new frame usually means buying a brand new bike
    -- unless you have amazing brakes, pedals, gears, and handlebars on your old bike, it is rarely cost effective to buy a new frame and transfer everything over.

    When shopping for frames, there is a definite hierarchy in frame weight.

    Carbon-fiber:
    The gold standard for light-weight bikes, carbon fiber is unfortunately a bit brittle.

    You will quite often see it on mountain bikes as the technology has progressed over the years so be careful if you decide to buy a second hand carbon bike.

    Racing, triathlon, and high-end road bikes are almost exclusively carbon fiber.

    Titanium:
    Stronger as steel but much lighter, titanium is another high-end option often found on mountain and road bikes.

    Aluminum:
    Strong and light, aluminum frames are the most common frames you can buy for any bike.

    Steel:
    Sturdy but heavy, steel is most common on old bikes, which are less concerned with lower weights.
  2. Step 2: Switch out your wheels for easy

    Perhaps the best "bang for you buck" fix is to get lighter wheels.

    You will not only lose weight, you'll become remarkably more aerodynamic.

    Lower spoke-count wheels and wheels made of lighter material will all help lighten your bike.

    What constitutes an "upgrade" depends on what you currently have, however, generally speaking, you can't go wrong with a few sure-fire light fixes:
    Carbon-fiber wheels Tubular wheels, not recommended for anything other than racing as they require special tires that are difficult to install and replace.

    Aero wheels, Mountain bike tires, which are big and knobby, are going to kill you going up a paved hill.

    If you find yourself riding more roads than trails, purchase a set of commuter or "cross" tires, which are lighter, offer less friction, and can still accommodate light trails riding.

    Slicks are also a viable choice for light trails such as footpaths. , Look at your chain rings, which are the big metal gears next to your right pedal.

    If you have three, you should consider purchasing a "compact crank," which gives you two chain rings.

    While you'll have less gears to work with, you will loose weight.

    If still want to keep the gears but lose the weight, you might compromise with an extra gear in the back, known as your cassette.

    That said, many riders find that, after 1-2 weeks of riding a compact crank, they forget they ever had a third ring. , Carbon fiber bars or specialty aerodynamic bars, like triathlon bars, will shave off weight and dampen some of the vibrations around your hands on bumpy roads.

    Remember, however, that carbon fiber is somewhat brittle so if you crash, be sure to get it checked at your local bike shop., There are a lot of additions people put on their bike that, unfortunately, do nothing but add weight.

    Get rid of any unnecessary saddlebags, lights, fenders, mudflaps, pumps, decorations, and reflectors, especially if you are riding on a dry day outside of a city.If you're going on a short ride, drop any extra water bottle cages, though you should always have at least one water bottle present unless water will be provided by the race.

    These will only shave a few grams off your total weight
    -- hardly worth it if you remove a bike light that will protect you on busy roads. , While this is mostly for racers, lighter, shoes and aero helmets cut down weight keep you quick, and look professional.

    They can get expensive, however.

    You can also swap out your pedals for racing pedals and wear light-weight shoes that attach to them. , Not for the faint of heart, race trimming involves shaving off every possible gram of weight you can.

    Professional rider Jack Pullar is perhaps the most extreme example, as he ripped off the seat covering and drilled holes out of his saddle, then sawed off the bottoms of his handlebars, to loose weight.

    While you should be careful, some race modifications include:
    Sawing off your seat post 1-2 inches below where you have it set.

    Trimming the ends of all your cables and cable housings.

    Removing water cages and bolts., Unless you're willing to shell out $15,000 for a high-end, pristine 11lb bike, you're not going to be losing that much weight, ever.

    Switching a lighter group set (your gears) and derailleur, for example, saves the equivalent weight of 1/3 of an iPhone
    4.You will not notice the difference.

    If you're entering the Tour de France, you'll want the absolute lightest bike you can get.

    Otherwise, stick to a few bigger, cost-effective fixes and work on getting stronger legs, not a lighter bike.

    If you've got nice wheels and still want a lighter bike, get a carbon fiber seat or light, small pedals first.

    They won't make a huge difference, but they will make the bike lighter.
  3. Step 3: immediate weight loss.

  4. Step 4: Make sure you're using the proper tires.

  5. Step 5: Switch to a double crank in your front gears.

  6. Step 6: Pick up aerodynamic handlebars.

  7. Step 7: Remove any unessential hardware.

  8. Step 8: Wear an aerodynamic pair of shoes and helmet.

  9. Step 9: Consider race trimming your bike if you feel comfortable with mechanics.

  10. Step 10: Know that you are usually saving grams

  11. Step 11: not pounds.

Detailed Guide

The frame is the base of the bike, and the most expensive part you can buy.

Getting a new frame usually means buying a brand new bike
-- unless you have amazing brakes, pedals, gears, and handlebars on your old bike, it is rarely cost effective to buy a new frame and transfer everything over.

When shopping for frames, there is a definite hierarchy in frame weight.

Carbon-fiber:
The gold standard for light-weight bikes, carbon fiber is unfortunately a bit brittle.

You will quite often see it on mountain bikes as the technology has progressed over the years so be careful if you decide to buy a second hand carbon bike.

Racing, triathlon, and high-end road bikes are almost exclusively carbon fiber.

Titanium:
Stronger as steel but much lighter, titanium is another high-end option often found on mountain and road bikes.

Aluminum:
Strong and light, aluminum frames are the most common frames you can buy for any bike.

Steel:
Sturdy but heavy, steel is most common on old bikes, which are less concerned with lower weights.

Perhaps the best "bang for you buck" fix is to get lighter wheels.

You will not only lose weight, you'll become remarkably more aerodynamic.

Lower spoke-count wheels and wheels made of lighter material will all help lighten your bike.

What constitutes an "upgrade" depends on what you currently have, however, generally speaking, you can't go wrong with a few sure-fire light fixes:
Carbon-fiber wheels Tubular wheels, not recommended for anything other than racing as they require special tires that are difficult to install and replace.

Aero wheels, Mountain bike tires, which are big and knobby, are going to kill you going up a paved hill.

If you find yourself riding more roads than trails, purchase a set of commuter or "cross" tires, which are lighter, offer less friction, and can still accommodate light trails riding.

Slicks are also a viable choice for light trails such as footpaths. , Look at your chain rings, which are the big metal gears next to your right pedal.

If you have three, you should consider purchasing a "compact crank," which gives you two chain rings.

While you'll have less gears to work with, you will loose weight.

If still want to keep the gears but lose the weight, you might compromise with an extra gear in the back, known as your cassette.

That said, many riders find that, after 1-2 weeks of riding a compact crank, they forget they ever had a third ring. , Carbon fiber bars or specialty aerodynamic bars, like triathlon bars, will shave off weight and dampen some of the vibrations around your hands on bumpy roads.

Remember, however, that carbon fiber is somewhat brittle so if you crash, be sure to get it checked at your local bike shop., There are a lot of additions people put on their bike that, unfortunately, do nothing but add weight.

Get rid of any unnecessary saddlebags, lights, fenders, mudflaps, pumps, decorations, and reflectors, especially if you are riding on a dry day outside of a city.If you're going on a short ride, drop any extra water bottle cages, though you should always have at least one water bottle present unless water will be provided by the race.

These will only shave a few grams off your total weight
-- hardly worth it if you remove a bike light that will protect you on busy roads. , While this is mostly for racers, lighter, shoes and aero helmets cut down weight keep you quick, and look professional.

They can get expensive, however.

You can also swap out your pedals for racing pedals and wear light-weight shoes that attach to them. , Not for the faint of heart, race trimming involves shaving off every possible gram of weight you can.

Professional rider Jack Pullar is perhaps the most extreme example, as he ripped off the seat covering and drilled holes out of his saddle, then sawed off the bottoms of his handlebars, to loose weight.

While you should be careful, some race modifications include:
Sawing off your seat post 1-2 inches below where you have it set.

Trimming the ends of all your cables and cable housings.

Removing water cages and bolts., Unless you're willing to shell out $15,000 for a high-end, pristine 11lb bike, you're not going to be losing that much weight, ever.

Switching a lighter group set (your gears) and derailleur, for example, saves the equivalent weight of 1/3 of an iPhone
4.You will not notice the difference.

If you're entering the Tour de France, you'll want the absolute lightest bike you can get.

Otherwise, stick to a few bigger, cost-effective fixes and work on getting stronger legs, not a lighter bike.

If you've got nice wheels and still want a lighter bike, get a carbon fiber seat or light, small pedals first.

They won't make a huge difference, but they will make the bike lighter.

About the Author

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Lisa Patel

Brings years of experience writing about home improvement and related subjects.

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