How to Lunge a Horse

Find an enclosed space for lunging, preferably a ring or small enclosed pasture., Apply polo wraps or brushing boots to the horse before starting work., Ideally, use a lunge cavesson., Never leave side reins tight when the horse is walking., Prepare...

15 Steps 3 min read Advanced

Step-by-Step Guide

  1. Step 1: Find an enclosed space for lunging

    Be sure that the footing is safe for your horse throughout the ring and that you can make a circle that is at least twenty meters in diameter.

    Do not work the horse on a tight circle for an extended period of time, as it can cause damage to their legs.

    Avoid bringing your horse to these places only for lunging, spend time doing activities to desensitize the horse to the new location.
  2. Step 2: preferably a ring or small enclosed pasture.

    It is important to protect the horse's legs when working on a relatively small circle, especially with green horses. , If you do not have one a halter or bridle on the horse can also be used.

    If using a halter, take care to ensure it does not twist and rub your horse in the eye.

    Do not just clip the lunge line to one bit ring, this can cause the bit to be pulled through the horse's mouth. , The horse must be able to freely move the neck and back to have a proper walk.

    Also it is important to allow the horse to warm up freely before attaching and tightening the side reins.

    An alternative to side reins is a Master Rein which does not fix the horses nose to it's chest but allows the horse to move freely forward into a contact whilst bending and flexing on the lunge. , Make sure it’s not twisted and is comfortable in your hand. , Any clumsiness will confuse and upset the horse.

    Take extreme caution to use good body language and avoid using frantic body language.

    When the horse does poorly, do not yank multiple times on the rope, Apply consistent and escalating pressure.

    Give the horse the opportunity to answer correctly to the lowest amount of force.

    When the horse behaves because of your pressure, release it.

    Continued pressure after this point will only confuse the horse, as it's mind is searching to get you to release the pressure it's feeling.

    Whatever causes you to give less pressure becomes the correct answer to the horse.

    To reiterate, practicing your body language and the use of your rein and aids will help you to give clear direction to the horse.

    The ultimate goal of any horse training exercise including lunging is to get the horse to understand the "trick" to getting you to leave it alone is to do what you say. ,, The whip is only to keep you out of the kicking range.

    To move the horse away from you, point the whip at his shoulder (not touching); and to move the horse on, point the whip behind his hindquarters.

    The use of aids must be managed carefully so as to not give the horse the impression that misbehaving results in a release of pressure.

    When you have time, desensitize the horse to the whip by also using it to rub or stroke and give positive interaction.

    The horse should learn to respect your direction, not simply be afraid because you have an aid.
  3. Step 3: Apply polo wraps or brushing boots to the horse before starting work.

  4. Step 4: Ideally

  5. Step 5: use a lunge cavesson.

  6. Step 6: Never leave side reins tight when the horse is walking.

  7. Step 7: Prepare the lunge line

  8. Step 8: by folding it back and forward over itself

  9. Step 9: not by coiling around your hand.

  10. Step 10: Practice using the lunging rein and whip until your are comfortable with them and can handle them nimbly.

  11. Step 11: Snap the lunge rein to the center ring of the cavesson.

  12. Step 12: Whips may 'only' be used as an aid

  13. Step 13: never as a tool to harm

  14. Step 14: injure

  15. Step 15: or frighten the horse.

Detailed Guide

Be sure that the footing is safe for your horse throughout the ring and that you can make a circle that is at least twenty meters in diameter.

Do not work the horse on a tight circle for an extended period of time, as it can cause damage to their legs.

Avoid bringing your horse to these places only for lunging, spend time doing activities to desensitize the horse to the new location.

It is important to protect the horse's legs when working on a relatively small circle, especially with green horses. , If you do not have one a halter or bridle on the horse can also be used.

If using a halter, take care to ensure it does not twist and rub your horse in the eye.

Do not just clip the lunge line to one bit ring, this can cause the bit to be pulled through the horse's mouth. , The horse must be able to freely move the neck and back to have a proper walk.

Also it is important to allow the horse to warm up freely before attaching and tightening the side reins.

An alternative to side reins is a Master Rein which does not fix the horses nose to it's chest but allows the horse to move freely forward into a contact whilst bending and flexing on the lunge. , Make sure it’s not twisted and is comfortable in your hand. , Any clumsiness will confuse and upset the horse.

Take extreme caution to use good body language and avoid using frantic body language.

When the horse does poorly, do not yank multiple times on the rope, Apply consistent and escalating pressure.

Give the horse the opportunity to answer correctly to the lowest amount of force.

When the horse behaves because of your pressure, release it.

Continued pressure after this point will only confuse the horse, as it's mind is searching to get you to release the pressure it's feeling.

Whatever causes you to give less pressure becomes the correct answer to the horse.

To reiterate, practicing your body language and the use of your rein and aids will help you to give clear direction to the horse.

The ultimate goal of any horse training exercise including lunging is to get the horse to understand the "trick" to getting you to leave it alone is to do what you say. ,, The whip is only to keep you out of the kicking range.

To move the horse away from you, point the whip at his shoulder (not touching); and to move the horse on, point the whip behind his hindquarters.

The use of aids must be managed carefully so as to not give the horse the impression that misbehaving results in a release of pressure.

When you have time, desensitize the horse to the whip by also using it to rub or stroke and give positive interaction.

The horse should learn to respect your direction, not simply be afraid because you have an aid.

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Megan Campbell

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