How to Develop Film
Purchase a film processing kit., Mix the developer powder with hot water., Mix the blix packets with water., Mix the stabilizer packet with water., Rinse your tank with hot water., Adjust the reel to accommodate the film., Turn off the lights...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Purchase a film processing kit.
There are certain film developing kits that can be used to process both C-41 color negatives and black-and-white-type C-41 negatives.
C-41 film is a common consumer film used in 35mm cameras, so these developing kits prove the most practical for standard consumer use.
Note, however, that if you are not using C-41 compatible film, you should search for a film developing kit specially designed for your film type.
The instructions for such film developing kits and the chemicals used may vary from those included here. -
Step 2: Mix the developer powder with hot water.
Place 1600 ml (51 oz) of hot water into a clean glass or plastic container.
Stir in the contents of the "developer" powder until dissolved.
Add enough water to make 2000 ml (64 oz).
The temperature of the water should be roughly 110 degrees Fahrenheit (43.5 degrees Celsius).
By the time it cools down for use, it should not have dropped below 100 degrees Fahrenheit (37.8 degrees Celsius).
Use distilled water instead of tap water when possible.
Do not mix the chemicals in a metal container. , Pour another 1600 ml (51 oz) of hot water into a second clean glass or plastic container.
Stir the "blix" or "bleach-fix" packets into the water and add enough additional water to make 2000 ml (64 oz).
Blix is also known as “bleach-fix.”If there are multiple bleach-fix packets, add them in alphabetical order: "A" and then "B." The temperature of the water should be about 110 degrees Fahrenheit (43.5 degrees Celsius).
It will cool down as it sits, but you should not allow it to drop below 100 degrees Fahrenheit (37.8 degrees Celsius).
Use distilled water and do not mix the chemicals in a metal container. , Stir the contents of the "stabilizer" powder into 2000 ml (64 oz) fresh water and mix thoroughly.
Use room temperature distilled water.
The exact temperature does not need to be precise. , Separate the developing tank into its separate parts: the tank, center column, reel, screen top, and red push cape.
Rinse the tank portion out with hot water and dry thoroughly with a clean cloth.
If there are any dried chemical spots, wipe them away with hot water and a clean cloth.
Replace the center column when done.
This column is what makes it possible for the tank to remain dark or “light proof” even while you add the developing chemicals. , The default size setting should be set to work with 35mm film, but if not, you can adjust the reel to fit the size of your film.
Twist the reel apart into two separate pieces.
One piece has a long groove in it while the second has a tab that locks into this groove at various points.
The first notch in the groove should be for 35mm film.
The second is usually for 127 format and the final one is usually for
120.
Lock the tab into the first groove, clicking it into place. , With the reel in your hand, turn off the lights of the room you are in.
Give your eyes time to readjust to the darkness before proceeding.
Exposing the film to light will ruin it, so you need to keep the lights off while loading the film into the tank. , Use a bottle opener to rip open the film canister, pretending that the bottom of the canister is the bottom cap.
After removing the film, hand it around the edges instead of handling it in the center.
Snip off the leader portion at the beginning of the film with clean scissors and discard. , Feed the newly-snipped end of the film into the tabs at the beginning of the reel.
Make sure that the first 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of film is inserted into the reel.
Twist the reel back and forth to insert the rest of the film.
The ball bearings under the tab with grip the film and draw it in.
Keep going until the film is completely wound onto the reel.
Snip off the last portion of film connected to the spindle. , Insert the reel into the center column and screw the lid on securely.
Once done, you may turn the lights back on.
The center column should provide sufficient protection against the light. , Pour plain distilled water into the tank and let it sit for 60 seconds before pouring it out.
The water you pour out will probably be a murky green color.
The water should be at about 102 degrees Fahrenheit (38.9 degrees Celsius). , Pour the developer solution into the tank and let it sit for
3.5 minutes before dumping it out.
The film should be completely submerged, and you should agitate the tank for 10 seconds every 30 seconds during this stage.
Make sure that the developing solution measures about 102 degrees Fahrenheit (38.9 degrees Celsius). , Pour the blix solution into the tank and let sit for
6.5 minutes.
Agitate the tank for 10 seconds every 30 seconds.
Dump the solution out when done.
The temperature of the blix solution should be between 95 and 105 degrees Fahrenheit (35 and
40.6 degrees Celsius).
The light-sensitive stage of development is complete with the conclusion of this step.
You can work with the lid off as soon as it is finished. , Remove the reel from the tank and wash it under clean, running water for 3 minutes to wash away the chemicals.
The temperature of the clean water should be between 95 and 105 degrees Fahrenheit (35 and
40.6 degrees Celsius). , Replace the reel in the tank.
Pour in the stabilizer solution and agitate the tank for 15 seconds.
Let the film sit in the stabilizer for 30 to 60 seconds total.
The solution should be at room temperature. , The film will need to develop for 4 to 8 hours.
Remove the reel from the tank once more and twist it apart to open.
Pinch one end of the roll and lift the film out, allowing it to unroll in the process.
Hang the film in a dry, dust-free location, like your shower.
Use film flips. , Much of the process is similar to that outlined above, but the chemicals you need include a developer, stop bath, fixer, and hypo-clearing agent.
The water temperatures and soaking times also vary. , These kits involve a technique even more similar to the one outlined here, but you will not be able to develop black-and-white film with them. , The coffee and baking soda are dissolved in warm water and used instead of a chemical developer solution. , While not entirely necessary, creating a dark room to work in will make it easier to organize and manage your film developing supplies.
It is a good idea to build a dark room if you plan on getting serious about photography.
Select a room with no windows to serve as the base for your dark room.
Otherwise, light could still bleed in from the outside. , Chemical spots can ruin your photos if you allow them to sit on your negatives for too long.
Knowing how to clean your negatives well is an essential step in developing photos properly.
It is also a good idea to learn about cleaning old negatives as well as recently developed ones. , Obviously, when your photographs are taken using a digital camera, there is no physical film to develop.
If you own a digital camera, make sure you learn how to transfer and print the photos you take with it. -
Step 3: Mix the blix packets with water.
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Step 4: Mix the stabilizer packet with water.
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Step 5: Rinse your tank with hot water.
-
Step 6: Adjust the reel to accommodate the film.
-
Step 7: Turn off the lights.
-
Step 8: Remove the film from the canister.
-
Step 9: Feed the film into the reel.
-
Step 10: Replace the reel in the center column of the tank.
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Step 11: Presoak the film.
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Step 12: Develop the film.
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Step 13: Use the blix solution.
-
Step 14: Wash the film.
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Step 15: Use the stabilizer solution.
-
Step 16: Dry the film.
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Step 17: Use a film developing technique designed solely for black-and-white film.
-
Step 18: Use a kit designed to work solely with color film.
-
Step 19: Develop black and white film with a coffee-and-baking-soda mixture.
-
Step 20: Create your own dark room to work in.
-
Step 21: Learn more about cleaning negatives.
-
Step 22: Understand how to access digital photographs.
Detailed Guide
There are certain film developing kits that can be used to process both C-41 color negatives and black-and-white-type C-41 negatives.
C-41 film is a common consumer film used in 35mm cameras, so these developing kits prove the most practical for standard consumer use.
Note, however, that if you are not using C-41 compatible film, you should search for a film developing kit specially designed for your film type.
The instructions for such film developing kits and the chemicals used may vary from those included here.
Place 1600 ml (51 oz) of hot water into a clean glass or plastic container.
Stir in the contents of the "developer" powder until dissolved.
Add enough water to make 2000 ml (64 oz).
The temperature of the water should be roughly 110 degrees Fahrenheit (43.5 degrees Celsius).
By the time it cools down for use, it should not have dropped below 100 degrees Fahrenheit (37.8 degrees Celsius).
Use distilled water instead of tap water when possible.
Do not mix the chemicals in a metal container. , Pour another 1600 ml (51 oz) of hot water into a second clean glass or plastic container.
Stir the "blix" or "bleach-fix" packets into the water and add enough additional water to make 2000 ml (64 oz).
Blix is also known as “bleach-fix.”If there are multiple bleach-fix packets, add them in alphabetical order: "A" and then "B." The temperature of the water should be about 110 degrees Fahrenheit (43.5 degrees Celsius).
It will cool down as it sits, but you should not allow it to drop below 100 degrees Fahrenheit (37.8 degrees Celsius).
Use distilled water and do not mix the chemicals in a metal container. , Stir the contents of the "stabilizer" powder into 2000 ml (64 oz) fresh water and mix thoroughly.
Use room temperature distilled water.
The exact temperature does not need to be precise. , Separate the developing tank into its separate parts: the tank, center column, reel, screen top, and red push cape.
Rinse the tank portion out with hot water and dry thoroughly with a clean cloth.
If there are any dried chemical spots, wipe them away with hot water and a clean cloth.
Replace the center column when done.
This column is what makes it possible for the tank to remain dark or “light proof” even while you add the developing chemicals. , The default size setting should be set to work with 35mm film, but if not, you can adjust the reel to fit the size of your film.
Twist the reel apart into two separate pieces.
One piece has a long groove in it while the second has a tab that locks into this groove at various points.
The first notch in the groove should be for 35mm film.
The second is usually for 127 format and the final one is usually for
120.
Lock the tab into the first groove, clicking it into place. , With the reel in your hand, turn off the lights of the room you are in.
Give your eyes time to readjust to the darkness before proceeding.
Exposing the film to light will ruin it, so you need to keep the lights off while loading the film into the tank. , Use a bottle opener to rip open the film canister, pretending that the bottom of the canister is the bottom cap.
After removing the film, hand it around the edges instead of handling it in the center.
Snip off the leader portion at the beginning of the film with clean scissors and discard. , Feed the newly-snipped end of the film into the tabs at the beginning of the reel.
Make sure that the first 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of film is inserted into the reel.
Twist the reel back and forth to insert the rest of the film.
The ball bearings under the tab with grip the film and draw it in.
Keep going until the film is completely wound onto the reel.
Snip off the last portion of film connected to the spindle. , Insert the reel into the center column and screw the lid on securely.
Once done, you may turn the lights back on.
The center column should provide sufficient protection against the light. , Pour plain distilled water into the tank and let it sit for 60 seconds before pouring it out.
The water you pour out will probably be a murky green color.
The water should be at about 102 degrees Fahrenheit (38.9 degrees Celsius). , Pour the developer solution into the tank and let it sit for
3.5 minutes before dumping it out.
The film should be completely submerged, and you should agitate the tank for 10 seconds every 30 seconds during this stage.
Make sure that the developing solution measures about 102 degrees Fahrenheit (38.9 degrees Celsius). , Pour the blix solution into the tank and let sit for
6.5 minutes.
Agitate the tank for 10 seconds every 30 seconds.
Dump the solution out when done.
The temperature of the blix solution should be between 95 and 105 degrees Fahrenheit (35 and
40.6 degrees Celsius).
The light-sensitive stage of development is complete with the conclusion of this step.
You can work with the lid off as soon as it is finished. , Remove the reel from the tank and wash it under clean, running water for 3 minutes to wash away the chemicals.
The temperature of the clean water should be between 95 and 105 degrees Fahrenheit (35 and
40.6 degrees Celsius). , Replace the reel in the tank.
Pour in the stabilizer solution and agitate the tank for 15 seconds.
Let the film sit in the stabilizer for 30 to 60 seconds total.
The solution should be at room temperature. , The film will need to develop for 4 to 8 hours.
Remove the reel from the tank once more and twist it apart to open.
Pinch one end of the roll and lift the film out, allowing it to unroll in the process.
Hang the film in a dry, dust-free location, like your shower.
Use film flips. , Much of the process is similar to that outlined above, but the chemicals you need include a developer, stop bath, fixer, and hypo-clearing agent.
The water temperatures and soaking times also vary. , These kits involve a technique even more similar to the one outlined here, but you will not be able to develop black-and-white film with them. , The coffee and baking soda are dissolved in warm water and used instead of a chemical developer solution. , While not entirely necessary, creating a dark room to work in will make it easier to organize and manage your film developing supplies.
It is a good idea to build a dark room if you plan on getting serious about photography.
Select a room with no windows to serve as the base for your dark room.
Otherwise, light could still bleed in from the outside. , Chemical spots can ruin your photos if you allow them to sit on your negatives for too long.
Knowing how to clean your negatives well is an essential step in developing photos properly.
It is also a good idea to learn about cleaning old negatives as well as recently developed ones. , Obviously, when your photographs are taken using a digital camera, there is no physical film to develop.
If you own a digital camera, make sure you learn how to transfer and print the photos you take with it.
About the Author
Justin Williams
A passionate writer with expertise in home improvement topics. Loves sharing practical knowledge.
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