How to Surf a Wave in One Day
Practice prone surfing., Choose the right wave., Surf., Wipe out.
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Practice prone surfing.
Before you start hanging ten on a 12 foot (3.7 m) wave in Hawaii, try riding your first few waves lying down.
Practice your position and body movement on the beach.
Lay your board down on the beach.
Hold the sides of the board about 3 quarters of the way back.
Pull yourself onto the board and lie face down.
Keep your board in the " chicken wings" posture... and make sure your toes are touching the board's tail.
Center your body on the board and keep it straight and lift your chin and chest.
Now you are ready for the sea. -
Step 2: Choose the right wave.
It's important to look for the right waves for your first attempt.
These should be coming in a straight direction towards the beach and be foamy with plenty white-water.
Place your board in the water and push it as you wade out.
Keep wading until the water is waist deep, jump over any oncoming waves. , Once again, before you start trying to surf a wave standing up, have a practice on the beach.
Decide if you're "regular" surfer or a "goofy" surfer.
A regular surfer puts their left foot forward.
A goofy surfer puts their right foot forward.
If you are lefty and you ride regular your left foot is forward and if you are goofy you will put your right foot forward.
To work out what you are, try skidding on a flat surface and see what foot you put up front.
Place your board on the sand and lie on it face down just as you were when riding in the prone position... turn your back foot so the inside of your ankle is touching the deck of the board.
Next, lift you neck and chest up.
Then slide your front foot forward to where your chest is.
Slowly let go of the board... and stand up.
Open your shoulders and arms for balance.
Look at the beach as you ride in and bend your legs at the knees, putting a little weight on your front leg.
And now your surfing! , Just as there's a correct way to ride a wave, there's also a right way to fall off it.
Be sure to fall off backwards into the waves and wrap your arms around your head to protect it against hard objects such as your board or rocks.
Don't forget to take a full breath before hitting the water! -
Step 3: Wipe out.
Detailed Guide
Before you start hanging ten on a 12 foot (3.7 m) wave in Hawaii, try riding your first few waves lying down.
Practice your position and body movement on the beach.
Lay your board down on the beach.
Hold the sides of the board about 3 quarters of the way back.
Pull yourself onto the board and lie face down.
Keep your board in the " chicken wings" posture... and make sure your toes are touching the board's tail.
Center your body on the board and keep it straight and lift your chin and chest.
Now you are ready for the sea.
It's important to look for the right waves for your first attempt.
These should be coming in a straight direction towards the beach and be foamy with plenty white-water.
Place your board in the water and push it as you wade out.
Keep wading until the water is waist deep, jump over any oncoming waves. , Once again, before you start trying to surf a wave standing up, have a practice on the beach.
Decide if you're "regular" surfer or a "goofy" surfer.
A regular surfer puts their left foot forward.
A goofy surfer puts their right foot forward.
If you are lefty and you ride regular your left foot is forward and if you are goofy you will put your right foot forward.
To work out what you are, try skidding on a flat surface and see what foot you put up front.
Place your board on the sand and lie on it face down just as you were when riding in the prone position... turn your back foot so the inside of your ankle is touching the deck of the board.
Next, lift you neck and chest up.
Then slide your front foot forward to where your chest is.
Slowly let go of the board... and stand up.
Open your shoulders and arms for balance.
Look at the beach as you ride in and bend your legs at the knees, putting a little weight on your front leg.
And now your surfing! , Just as there's a correct way to ride a wave, there's also a right way to fall off it.
Be sure to fall off backwards into the waves and wrap your arms around your head to protect it against hard objects such as your board or rocks.
Don't forget to take a full breath before hitting the water!
About the Author
Catherine Kennedy
Specializes in breaking down complex DIY projects topics into simple steps.
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