How to Paint a Room
Get the tools and supplies (see below)., Clear the room of all movable items, and cover things you can't or don't move., Take the opportunity to make your walls flat., Remove hardware (doorknobs, handles, hinges, electrical outlets, electrical...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Get the tools and supplies (see below).
It's not always easy to run out to the store in the middle of dealing with wet paint! -
Step 2: Clear the room of all movable items
If you are only painting part of the room, you'll only need to clear or cover items in the danger zone.
Paint drips downward, so anything underneath what you are painting needs to be moved or covered.
Paint can also splatter sideways as you swing your tools or if you paint too aggressively.
Consider the danger zone to be at least 2 meters (6 feet) horizontally from any surfaces that will be painted. , Remove any unnecessary protrusions, like nails or old paint drips.
Fill large holes with self-expanding sealing foam (e.g.
Great Stuff).
Fill small holes with Spackle, joint compound, or wood putty.
Sand the wall flat and remove bumps and ridges.
See How to Fix a Hole in a Wall and How to Prepare a Room for Painting. , you don't wish to paint over.
For painting purposes, it's better to remove than to mask, but masking is possible for items that you either cannot remove, don't care that much about, or which would be wobbly if removed and re-installed in the same place.
Nothing looks worse than paint on door hardware. , You don't want dust to blow onto your wet paint; it will make nasty bumps. , Any colors you want to match exactly will probably need to be painted at the same time.
Paint colors can fade over time, especially when exposed to sunlight. , Some molds can be very hazardous.
Use of a filter mask is recommended.
Be sure the room is kept dry enough to prevent future mold growth.
Some primers and paints are mold and mildew-resistant.
Some primers and sealers are specifically marketed to deal with stains. , They must be completely clean of dust, spider webs, etc., and also completely dry.
You should be able to wipe the wall down with a sponge without having anything come off.
If there is existing paint that is chipping, it will need to be scraped off with a metal brush or paint scraping tool.
Otherwise, your new paint job will also soon start to flake off. , Use a household detergent or a light acid.
Trisodium phosphate (TSP) is one widely available cleaning product that is effective at breaking down dirt, grease, and oil on walls. , Paint drips may obscure the label later.
This will also help you know how long the job will take, so you can schedule appropriately. , Make sure the tape is straight.
The edge you lay down with the tape is the edge you will get in paint.
A small error (especially if the wrong color is on the wrong surface) might be very noticeable later.
Push down hard on the edge of the masking tape nearest the side that will be painted, to prevent bubbles that could allow paint to seep under the tape.
It's almost certainly less annoying to use masking tape than to "be very careful" around the edges.
It is nearly impossible to avoid accidentally getting paint in the wrong place, and it is difficult to wipe up an accidental smear when it's very close to a large area of wet paint without getting more paint on yourself or other inappropriate surfaces.
To keep paint from bleeding under the tape, you can first "seal" it by using either a clear glaze or paint of the same color of the surface behind the tape.
You will then need to paint over this sealing coat with the desired color on the surface being painted.
This will produce a very crisp line when you remove the tape.
Some surfaces (such as loose plaster or old wallpaper) will be damaged by masking tape.
You will need to wipe stray smears, or hold a newspaper or other flat, non-stick object in the right place.
Wide plastic blades are sold in paint departments for this purpose.
If one surface is heavily textured, you may need to do the border freehand with a good paintbrush.
Hopefully this will be in an area where it is difficult to notice small errors (such as high above, out of direct sight, or very low to the floor). , It's important to take this step seriously; it will be more difficult if not impossible to clean up drips later.
You may wish to tape your drop cloth to the floor.
Masking tape does work on carpets. , Wipe your feet thoroughly before leaving the room, or use additional drop cloths in other rooms. , (See "How to prime and paint".) Priming is mandatory if you are painting over any non-paint surface, like drywall, unpainted wood, metal, Spackle, wood putty, ink, crayon, mold stains, or even oil paint.
It water-seals the surface and also provides a layer that paint can stick to.
Water-based paint will not stick to an un-primed layer of oil-based paint.
Putting down white primer is a good idea when painting a light color over a dark one, but consider getting your primer tinted if you are painting a dark color over light.
You probably don't need primer when repainting, if the older paint is of the same type and not too old.
However, you should use a primer if the existing paint is very shiny, as new paint layers do not adhere as well to a glossy finish.
Consider a bonding primer for high-gloss walls.
When in doubt, use primer! Some specialty paints are self-priming, which may or may not save time depending on the number of coats needed. ,, (See "How to prime and paint".) Add as many coats as it takes to make the surface look nice.
Higher quality paint often requires fewer layers for an even color. , Pull the tape off the wall at a 90 degree angle for a clean edge.
You may need to re-mask if you are using more than two coats; otherwise, the paint layers may tear in a jagged fashion instead of being cut cleanly by the tape.
You can wait until the paint is dry before removing the masking (this is not necessary if you are careful), but for the best cut, don't wait longer than 24 to 48 hours.
If the paint has completely dried, the tape will be difficult to remove and may pull paint from the wall underneath. , The result will probably not be as good as a good masking job, but it will make errors less noticeable. ,,, You may wish to purchase new hardware that matches your new paint colors.
If your electrical outlets, covers, and switches are discolored or no longer match, replacements are relatively cheap and easily installed. , -
Step 3: and cover things you can't or don't move.
-
Step 4: Take the opportunity to make your walls flat.
-
Step 5: Remove hardware (doorknobs
-
Step 6: handles
-
Step 7: hinges
-
Step 8: electrical outlets
-
Step 9: electrical switch covers
-
Step 10: smoke detectors
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Step 11: doorbells
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Step 12: Make the room dust-free.
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Step 13: Carefully consider what you will be painting.
-
Step 14: If you have mold or mildew
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Step 15: remove it with a mix of bleach and water (50% of each)
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Step 16: then wash again with plain water.
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Step 17: Prepare the surfaces to be painted.
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Step 18: Remove any grease on the walls.
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Step 19: Read the can before starting
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Step 20: so you know how long it will take to dry.
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Step 21: Apply your masking tape to the edges of areas that will not be painted (cabinets
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Step 22: windows
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Step 23: woodwork
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Step 24: ceiling
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Step 25: Deploy your drop cloth
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Step 26: making sure all areas in the danger zone are completely covered.
-
Step 27: Prevent tracking of paint into other rooms.
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Step 28: Prime!
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Step 29: Update your masking if necessary.
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Step 30: Paint!
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Step 31: Remove masking when finished.
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Step 32: If you had paint bleed under your masking tape
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Step 33: you can take a very small paintbrush (typically sold at art stores) and very carefully touch up the lines.
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Step 34: If you accidentally splattered the wrong color in certain areas despite your careful masking and covering
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Step 35: touch them up with a brush and some extra paint of the right color
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Step 36: being careful not to splatter yet again.
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Step 37: Wait until paint drips are dry before removing your drop cloths.
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Step 38: After the last coat is completely dry
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Step 39: replace any hardware you removed.
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Step 40: Enjoy your new room!
Detailed Guide
It's not always easy to run out to the store in the middle of dealing with wet paint!
If you are only painting part of the room, you'll only need to clear or cover items in the danger zone.
Paint drips downward, so anything underneath what you are painting needs to be moved or covered.
Paint can also splatter sideways as you swing your tools or if you paint too aggressively.
Consider the danger zone to be at least 2 meters (6 feet) horizontally from any surfaces that will be painted. , Remove any unnecessary protrusions, like nails or old paint drips.
Fill large holes with self-expanding sealing foam (e.g.
Great Stuff).
Fill small holes with Spackle, joint compound, or wood putty.
Sand the wall flat and remove bumps and ridges.
See How to Fix a Hole in a Wall and How to Prepare a Room for Painting. , you don't wish to paint over.
For painting purposes, it's better to remove than to mask, but masking is possible for items that you either cannot remove, don't care that much about, or which would be wobbly if removed and re-installed in the same place.
Nothing looks worse than paint on door hardware. , You don't want dust to blow onto your wet paint; it will make nasty bumps. , Any colors you want to match exactly will probably need to be painted at the same time.
Paint colors can fade over time, especially when exposed to sunlight. , Some molds can be very hazardous.
Use of a filter mask is recommended.
Be sure the room is kept dry enough to prevent future mold growth.
Some primers and paints are mold and mildew-resistant.
Some primers and sealers are specifically marketed to deal with stains. , They must be completely clean of dust, spider webs, etc., and also completely dry.
You should be able to wipe the wall down with a sponge without having anything come off.
If there is existing paint that is chipping, it will need to be scraped off with a metal brush or paint scraping tool.
Otherwise, your new paint job will also soon start to flake off. , Use a household detergent or a light acid.
Trisodium phosphate (TSP) is one widely available cleaning product that is effective at breaking down dirt, grease, and oil on walls. , Paint drips may obscure the label later.
This will also help you know how long the job will take, so you can schedule appropriately. , Make sure the tape is straight.
The edge you lay down with the tape is the edge you will get in paint.
A small error (especially if the wrong color is on the wrong surface) might be very noticeable later.
Push down hard on the edge of the masking tape nearest the side that will be painted, to prevent bubbles that could allow paint to seep under the tape.
It's almost certainly less annoying to use masking tape than to "be very careful" around the edges.
It is nearly impossible to avoid accidentally getting paint in the wrong place, and it is difficult to wipe up an accidental smear when it's very close to a large area of wet paint without getting more paint on yourself or other inappropriate surfaces.
To keep paint from bleeding under the tape, you can first "seal" it by using either a clear glaze or paint of the same color of the surface behind the tape.
You will then need to paint over this sealing coat with the desired color on the surface being painted.
This will produce a very crisp line when you remove the tape.
Some surfaces (such as loose plaster or old wallpaper) will be damaged by masking tape.
You will need to wipe stray smears, or hold a newspaper or other flat, non-stick object in the right place.
Wide plastic blades are sold in paint departments for this purpose.
If one surface is heavily textured, you may need to do the border freehand with a good paintbrush.
Hopefully this will be in an area where it is difficult to notice small errors (such as high above, out of direct sight, or very low to the floor). , It's important to take this step seriously; it will be more difficult if not impossible to clean up drips later.
You may wish to tape your drop cloth to the floor.
Masking tape does work on carpets. , Wipe your feet thoroughly before leaving the room, or use additional drop cloths in other rooms. , (See "How to prime and paint".) Priming is mandatory if you are painting over any non-paint surface, like drywall, unpainted wood, metal, Spackle, wood putty, ink, crayon, mold stains, or even oil paint.
It water-seals the surface and also provides a layer that paint can stick to.
Water-based paint will not stick to an un-primed layer of oil-based paint.
Putting down white primer is a good idea when painting a light color over a dark one, but consider getting your primer tinted if you are painting a dark color over light.
You probably don't need primer when repainting, if the older paint is of the same type and not too old.
However, you should use a primer if the existing paint is very shiny, as new paint layers do not adhere as well to a glossy finish.
Consider a bonding primer for high-gloss walls.
When in doubt, use primer! Some specialty paints are self-priming, which may or may not save time depending on the number of coats needed. ,, (See "How to prime and paint".) Add as many coats as it takes to make the surface look nice.
Higher quality paint often requires fewer layers for an even color. , Pull the tape off the wall at a 90 degree angle for a clean edge.
You may need to re-mask if you are using more than two coats; otherwise, the paint layers may tear in a jagged fashion instead of being cut cleanly by the tape.
You can wait until the paint is dry before removing the masking (this is not necessary if you are careful), but for the best cut, don't wait longer than 24 to 48 hours.
If the paint has completely dried, the tape will be difficult to remove and may pull paint from the wall underneath. , The result will probably not be as good as a good masking job, but it will make errors less noticeable. ,,, You may wish to purchase new hardware that matches your new paint colors.
If your electrical outlets, covers, and switches are discolored or no longer match, replacements are relatively cheap and easily installed. ,
About the Author
Kathryn Perez
Professional writer focused on creating easy-to-follow lifestyle tutorials.
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